I decided that i wanted to replace my coarse grinding wheel with a wire bruch one. Got the 6" B&D wire wheel, took the other wheel off (took forever to get that off) & now I see that the new wire wheel has a bigger radius hole than my grinders shaft. Now what?? Can I put a busing or something into the wire wheel?
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Sounds like there is not enough coffee to make a solid puck. If you get crema, grind coarseness sounds ok. A finer grind will produce less coffee grounds for the puck and increases chance of clogging.
You may have to balance grind size with amount of crema to get solid puck.
Big problem with these is you want dark roast for espresso, but oil on beans clogs grinder. Are you using a dark roast? A medium roast works better in these. Or, can you increase the grind time? My Super-auto had a program option to increase time. But not in reg instructions. Got it from authorized repair facility.
I had the same problem with too fine a grind when I took mine completely apart to clean (including the lower burr). The solution I finally came around to was to further tighten the star-shaped screw which holds the lower burr assembly in place. I had originally just tightened it until the lower burr until the lower burr assembly started to turn with the screw, but that wasn't enough. So I held the assembly in place and tightened the screw further and I'm back to my previous grind coarseness/fineness.
That one is hard to explain but I will try. On the front of the grinder is the adjustment wheel, on the wheel is a small screw, if you put your hand on the wheel it might be about 1/4 inch from the front, back up screw about 1/2 turn or more then make sure the grinder is on 3 or espresso, make sure you can pull out front part of the wheel ONLY. If not back up screw a little more and try again, now that it can move freely without moving the numbers, pull it out and turn it to about 5 or 6 then turn grinder on and very SLOWLY, (This is the dangerous part do not go to fast or you could damage the grinder) turn towards trukish grind when you get close you will hear the burrs slightly touching. Back off the knob a little just before the touching part and turn grinder off. Then pull knob out and turn it to turkish and set screw.
I was a little confused at first but where ir says coarse on the adjustment "wheel" is actually the fine setting. If you want coarse you need to turn it the opisite direction. If you look cloosely you will notice there is an arrow beside where it says coarse pointing to the right and beside where it says fine there is an arrow pointing left. It kind of makes no sense, but I guess since they've been making it for like 70 years they figure why fix it. I hope this helps, I had the same problem the first time I used mine, and the manual doesn't really mention it.
Bench grinders aren't designed for precision work. In fact, they're really freehand tools that rely on a good eye and careful touch. And while you can take some tools, like drill bits or turning tools, right from the grinding wheel to the work, it's common for grinding to be a relatively coarse, preliminary shaping procedure, followed by careful honing on a whetstone.
You say " I am getting a weak brew because of not being able to adust the grind to more coarse with the adjustment knob in the bean hopper" By making it more coarse you are making it weaker. Unless you just wrote it wrong.
To make it stronger you should lower the grinder number to a smaller number. Usually about 4-6. Be sure you have the grinder grinding when you move it to a lower number.
The pump noise could be that in shipping your pump came loose from it's mount. Nothing you can do without sending it to a Authorized Saeco Repair shop.