I decided that i wanted to replace my coarse grinding wheel with a wire bruch one. Got the 6" B&D wire wheel, took the other wheel off (took forever to get that off) & now I see that the new wire wheel has a bigger radius hole than my grinders shaft. Now what?? Can I put a busing or something into the wire wheel?
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A bench grinder would be unlikely to need oiling, but if it has such a provision there would be spring loaded caps or a set screw caps on the motor body near both arbors. The real concern is if the wheels have been compromised by taking a hard bump that could weaken them. This is an unlikely problem if grinder hasn't been dropped or had something heavy drop onto a wheel. If you have no reason to suspect wheel damage, and it runs without squeaking or excessive vibration, and the cord is not damaged, and there are no loose parts on it - then you have nothing to worry about. But you might want to consider "dressing" the wheels. Google "Grinding dresser" and read the Wikipedia article.
is it possible that you have misplaced the inner clamp washer? I looked at a print on this tool and that is the only thing that I can see unless it has major bearing problems. Did this just start after a wheel change and what is the possibility that the wheels are too big and hitting the housing or there is a build up of grinding dust in the bell where the wheel turns. Most of the parts for this tool are probably discontinued. You can go to Dewaltservicenet.com and under manuals type in your model number for a copy of the breakdown that I looked at.
Goggles or safety glasses need to be worn to protect the operator's eyes from the sparks and metal filings that result. Depending on the workpiece and time of exposure, hearing protection may also be required, the dust produced is also potentially hazardous. The toolrest (or workrest) should be mounted slightly below the center of the grinding wheel with less than 3 mm clearance from the wheel. This prevents the work from jamming between the toolrest and the wheel. Grinding wheels designed for steel should not be used for grinding softer metals, like aluminium. The soft metal gets lodged in the pores of the wheel and expand with the heat of grinding. This can dislodge pieces of the grinding wheel. Wire brushes require particular attention for the safety of the operator and bystanders as the metal wires may become dangerous projectiles as they could bind with the object being brushed and so throw it away with great energy. The machine needs to be securely mounted to a pillar or a bench to be used safely and effectively, often with an emergency stop switch or pedal fitted close by the machine, for use in emergencies.
Grinding is the fastest way to deburr a sharp corner or dress the end of threaded rod or bar stock that's been cut to length. Fit a grinder with a wire wheel, and you have a handy tool for removing rust. Then switch to a buffing wheel and you're ready to polish metal to a mirrorlike sheen. But for most of us, grinders are essential for shaping and sharpening hardened tool steel and high-speed steel.
Bench grinders aren't designed for precision work. In fact, they're really freehand tools that rely on a good eye and careful touch. And while you can take some tools, like drill bits or turning tools, right from the grinding wheel to the work, it's common for grinding to be a relatively coarse, preliminary shaping procedure, followed by careful honing on a whetstone.