Delonghi microvave replacement bulb, microwave only 6 months old
I bought a delonghi microwave in Argos about 6 months ago, bulb has blown, (also sets of the trip switch in my fuse board sometimes) no way I can see how to replace it like my last microwave , took it back to Argos in Limerick, they did'nt want to know, the mangager told me to get an electrician to replace the bulb, she said it will probably cost me the price of a new one to repair (what kind of service is this) needless to say if I do not get satisfaction I shall not be purchasing delonghi products again.
Re: delonghi microvave replacement bulb, microwave only 6...
I got a Delongi Mic form argos too ,model ED8525S-SBD, sounds like a similar problem to what happened to it last year. Issue is that the bulb explodes (mainly due to the very strong spring on the door I think) leaving filament lieing on the metal chassis, hence the trip switch in your fuse box trips.
Didn't manage to find a replacement bulb but at least if you remove the old bits then it will get the machine back up and running and stop the trip tripping!
Take off the top by removing the 4or 5 screws around the outer edge at the back. The bulb sits directly behind the front panel inside its own metal chassis. There is a diamond shaped black plastic flange which the 2 power wires feed onto. 2 metal lugs hold this inside the chassis. straighten the lugs and the bulb holder pulls out. Even with the bulb removed I think there was a blown fuse and I had a further issue with the turntable not turning(this feeds off the same circuit as the bulb). So maybe Argos were right - the machine only cost £80 at the end of the day!
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Check your junction box circuit breaker for issues. This should be on a 220 outlet. Find out if your model has an internal safety switch. If you trouble shoot all areas, then time to call a repair person.
On appliances like this only the heating elements use 220 volts. things like the clock, fan, etc use 110 volts. That is why some things work and other do not. Start at the breaker, sometimes a double pole breaker will have 1 side tripped, but will look perfectly fine. switch the breaker all the way to off then re-set. If nothing changes follow the power to the appliance remove the panel and look for some fuses, check to see if any are blown. Also sometimes the microwave will have a separate power source even though its built in to the same appliance. So that's not always a good symptom to follow.
Found this post on another fixya-type site: below is the link.. Here's a repeat of Kai's instructions so you don't have to scroll down. I just replaced mine and it was a snap. Just a few Phillips screws and a few tugs. No need to pull the unit completely out as you can access the bulb after it's about half way. No need to disconnect any wiring harness except pulling the bulb out of its socket. I used the 10w (G4 12V) replacement bulb from Home Depot at $6. The light is a bit brighter but there've been no problems with fuses.
1) Turn off power to the unit 2) Open the lower oven door 3) Remove the side trim screws and pull the trims down and out. 4) Remove 2 screws on the sides of the control panel. 5) Open the Microwave door. Remove the 3 screws on the Air Vent Plastic Cover on top of the microwave. You can then remove the Air Vent Cover by pushing the control panel up and pull out slightly at the bottom. 6) Remove the 4 screws on the Air Vent Plastic Cover on top of the lower oven and remove the Air Vent Cover. (You may have to remove the left under side bracket of the Microwave door temporarily just for the Air Vent Cover to clear the screw of the bracket. Re-secure the side bracket of the Microwave door panel as the front panel may fall) 7) Remove the 2 screws which held the Microwave unit in place behind the Air Vent Cover on step 6. 8) Wiggle the Microwave unit out about half way to expose the light bulb unit on top center 9) Wiring to the Control Panel will prevent you from pulling the Microwave unit out any further. And you don't want to do that as the unit may fall. Space is cramped, but working carefully with pliers you should be able to release the springs which held down the light bulb unit and change the bulb. http://www.fixed4free.com/answers.php?id=51232
ISOLATE THE POWER TO THE APPLIANCE BEFORE OPENING
There are several electrical conponents that can cause an earth leakage, but usually there are temp control swithes shorting to earth, the internal of the componet brakes down and it is screwed to the metal chassis of the oven. When the temp gets too high this is ment to break connection, if it has went fauly it can pass current to earth causing your RCB to trip. Have a look to find the location it is usually a semi oval case with two terminals, you should have continuity through the two terminals as it is normally closed, check for impedance to the case with the component disconnected, is there is any conductivity, replace.
There are as I said before several things that can cause this, a faulty heating element is another, check them while you have the appliance open. Black Grey spots not carbon or food it should feel rough, or if not fully blown a small bulge on the metal. In order to do these test you will require a mulimeter, and some basic knowledge of electrics.
Hope this has been helpful
When you say board I assume you mean the electronic clock/timer. This timer directly affects the oven operation. Even if the internal oven fuse is blown or the thermal overload is tripped the electronic timer and oven light will always work. If the oven light works and the electronic timer/clock does not I'd say that the timer/clock is faulty.
My HBC 86 showed this behavior, after a fuse for the microwave operations was blown (remove the top cover and you will see it on a board close to the door). It's an 8A, medium speed. There might be different reasons, why the fuse is blown. In my case, the switches that detect whether the oven door is closed or open caused the problem. There are two connected with the microwave, one on the left (a bipolar switch) and another on the right. The switches will cause a short-circuit (and thus a blown fuse), if the left one detects an open door and the right one a closed door - it's an additional security feature. The problem can be caused by a blocked or slowly reacting switch. You might want to clean/replace the switches and/or put the right switch as far as possible away from the door so that it detects a close later (and open earlier). A good thing for testing: the problem occurs without actually starting the microwave.