I just bought this unit at an auction - it looks like it's in nearly perfect condition. I have never started one before and don't know exactly how it's supposed to perform. I plug the unit in, switch it on at the back, and it starts, there's flame, but within a couple seconds it blows out. I must have tried about a dozen times with the same result, no matter where i put the colder/warmer setting to. I don't have a manual, what do i do to get this unit to stay on? Is there some adjustment of fuel/air at the back that I can adjust?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: uk165t starts and blows out immediately.
Here is a link to the owner's manual you requested... http://18.104.22.168/manuals/123919-01A.PDF. Check out page 8 and 10. There is a few things that could be preventing your heater from not working. If you need to replace a part or filter you can contact Master Parts at 800-446-1446 or on-line at www.masterparts.net. I hope this helps you.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
sounds like the air to gas setting is wrong, not enough air intake. there should be an air adjuster near the burn box. where the gas goes into the burn box. fallow the gas line to find it. adjust it till it burns correct. there also should be a gas pressure adjuster to, it should be near the burner.
Check the wiring for the fan and the temperature sensor. If the fan isn't running/broken the unit will not start or ignite. Try moving the fan blades with the unit unplugged. If they don't move easily or are ceased the fan may need replacing or lubricating. The heat in these units dries out the fan bearings over time.
If the flame looks good prior to the room air blower starting but becomes unstable when the blower starts, you have a crack or hole in the heat exchanger. I strongly suggest your technician do a test on it to see.
sounds like you shorted out the heat anticipator in the tstat. try jumping red to white at the tstat wiring terminal and have a friend stand near the furnace to see if it cranks up immediately. if it does the problem is more than likely in your tstat. be sure to blow out any dust in the workings of your tstat. this is 24 volts and shouldn't hurt you but try not to short it out to the common or other wires.
relight and watch flame during cycle if it is going out once the fan starts you may have a cracked heat exchanger!!!!!!!!
When fan comes on it blows out the flame. This is a potentially life threating condition; have a pro take a look. It could be something simple but don't risk it!!!!!!
First you want to look at the pilot nozzle. from the very end it should appear to be "8" shaped. If this is not the case than the nozzle must be replaced. This pinch in the center end of the nozzle is the restricter and allows for an even flame to the thermocouple. There are adjustments for the volume of gas to the nozzle but they should not be changed from the factory default settings. Thank you, Dana
All gas heaters have a thermocouple that sits in the path of the pilot light if the unit does not have automatic electronic ignition and may have one then too.
Pressing the button on the valve assembly to start it bypasses this safety for lighting but if the thermocouple is bad, the unit won't stay lit.
Thermocouples are pretty reliable but I'm sure the Chinese have managed to make them poorly enough to destroy the reliability and I suspect these are mostly coming from there now.
If your unit uses a pilot light, check it and look for a closed-end rod sitting in the path of the flame.
This device will likely have a thin (and fragile!) tube connecting it to the valve body. Don't kink this tube while handling.
If you have a multimeter at home (everyone should; under $20 at Radio Shack or any auto parts store) you can measure it.
If it is good, it should measure a very low resistance; under 10 Ohms on the lowest scale.
Most hardware stores carry replacement TCs but you may have to dig through several shapes to find one that will mount in your heater.
Usually with gas Heaters the main problem is a blockage in the jet. They usually blow them out with compressed air. This can be done from the top near the flame and with luck it will clear it. If not then you need to go looking the main pipe to the jet which will involve removing the outer covering to get to it. Remove the pipe and blow it out and blow out the jet too. Make sure you put the pipe back on properly. Hope this helps.