Put the machine on spin and turn on. If you hear the motor it is a part called a coupler if it is completely dead it is the lid switch. to gain access into this machine look for 2 phillips head screwson the lower front or back side of the control panel. some models have plastic covers that pop off on each side covering these screws. after removing these the control panel flips up and you will see 2 brass clips on each side that you will pop of with a flathead screwdriver. now unplug the lid switch wires and the entire shell of the machine will lift off. now you have easy access to the lid switch and down at the bottom you will see the pump for the washer. remove the 2 metal clips and the pump slides off. check it as they are prone to leaking. now you will see 2 more clips securing the motor some also have screws in the clips but anyway remove these and the motor slides out. the coupler consists of two plastic hubs with 3 prongs sticking out one on the motor and one on the transmission with a rubber disk connecting the 2 together. this part has been redesigned 4 times the latest one has teardrop shaped prongs and a metal sleeve insert where they attach to the motor and tranny
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is likely that a tissue or paper product was included with the wash load. The series 70 does not have a lint trap. At the hose connection to the house drain lint has been known to build up restricting the emptying. This buildup would not introduce lint into the washer.
If the water temperature is very very cold and you use powder detergent it will not dissolve completely into the water and will leave a white residue on the fabrics.
Try running a short load in the washer allowing for ample water to rinse out the machine before the next wash load.
you can find out by measuring the depth of the tub in inches. Measure the diameter of the tub at the opening where you put the clothes in. Multiply those 2 numbers. Then divide the figure by 144 which is a cubic foot in inches. That will Give you the cubic feet.
Example Depth of 23 inches and diameter of 21 inches. 23X21= 483/144 = 3.35 cu. ft.
Hi, we also got the SUDS error followed by F35 many times. I replaced the analog water level switch, Wirlpool part number W10156252, and the problem went away. The part is located against the back right corner of the top of the washer after removing the top cover. The part cost $62.99 + $12.95 express shipping from ApplianceZone.net. I have the Kenmore HE3t Steam Washer, model number 110.46752 700 front loader. I was able to run about 6 loads of laundry by unplugging the washer, waiting about 5 minutes, the re-plugging and re-starting the washer. Thereafter, the problem became permanent. I always used HE detergent. The washer was purchased new in December 2007, and the I made the repair in September 2009. I spent about $1300 for the Kenmore H3t Steam Washer, and I am disappointed that it required repair after less than 2 years. My mothers old Maytag washer lasted more than 15 years, and was not susceptible to soap SUDS.
You have a bad motor. ( very common) If you take your model number to a local used parts store you may be able to find a good used motor for cheap. If no luck finding a used one, Order it from sears. (the motor is deffinately your problem, I replace them all the time.)
HI colleen. thanks for the question. i know that you have been doing laundry for 30 yrs. i have been repairing for 45 years. they did not have daugs then. so the problem was not there. yes overloading is the cause . but if it wont go into the spin cycle . that could be the lid switch.
Click on 'washing machines', then brand name (below FIXYA) on this website, type in your model number & search. You will get a shortlist; click on your model,below the page u will get Manual/Guides. Click on the blue, you have your manual on line. Possible your filter is clogged after these years. And dont forget to rate me on this great site.
I hate to say it, but it sure sounds like a timer problem. There are contacts inside that move and switch items no matter what setting its in. Its a possibilty that the power contact is stuck closed and when you manually turn it off it breaks contact. The job to replace is really not that hard, remove console (unplug unit first), mark your wires, then just replace. The part though is a touch expensive (131789200 Sears Part Number). Probably would be a little cheaper than buying a new unit I guess. Let me know if you need any further information. Jim