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Re: fan toggle switches
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Is the fan 2-speed? Old switch has 2 black and 1 red... sounds like 2-speed. One black is probably Hot, and other black and red go to each speed?? Choose 1 speed and wire timer as follows: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html Add a comment with more details about the timer you are using, and include if fan is 2-speed and what each wire tests.
BEFORE YOU PERFORM ANY CONNECTIONS BE SURE THAT THE CORRECT CIRCUIT BREAKER FOR THE BOX HAS BEEN TURNED OFF! You must check for voltage between the white and black wires at the ceiling box with each of your two wall switches toggled up or down ONE AT A TIME! The green wire in the ceiling box (or bare copper wire) is your ground wire and should be connected to the green wire of the fan, and also should be mechanically connected to the electrical box by a screw or clip. If your system was wired correctly you should find that it already is connected to the box. The white wire in the ceiling box is your neutral wire, so any and all white wires from the fan should be connected to it. You may have one for the fan motor and one for the light kit if there are two separate whites from the fan. Again, they may already be connected together in the fan/light assembly. The black wire in the ceiling box is switched on and off from either of the two switches in the room, which I assume are located near two different doors to the room. These are called "three-way switches". They are not marked "on" and "off" on the toggle like any single-light switches in your home. That is why you must check for power at the ceiling box with the switches in each position one at a time to make sure that the circuit is de-energized. Now for the connections: You will need to connect both the red and black wires from the fan to the black wire from the electrical box. The black wire in your ceiling box is your "hot" wire and will provide power to both the fan motor (black wire) and to the light through the red wire--(sometimes this wire is blue, for others who are following this post). With this arrangement, your fan and light will only operate with one or the other of your three-way switches completing the circuit from your breaker box. You will have to use the pull chains on the fan to control the fan and lights. So you will probably want to leave the light "pulled on" so that you can control the room lighting from either of your three-way switches, and operate your fan speeds from the pull chain. However, if you want your fan only on at night you will have to "pull off" the fan's light switch. You may find all this switch flipping and chain pulling an inconvenience. If so, hire an electrician to install wiring so that the ceiling box will be "hot" all the time to the fan's black wire and the fan will therefore be operated by the pull chain only, and the light kit will be controlled by either of the three way switches, via the fan's red (or blue) wire. One other caveat before you begin: you must make sure that the ceiling box is rated for and mounted sturdily so that it will support the weight of the fan and light kit. Many ceiling boxes are designed and mounted to support only a light-weight fixture. You don't want your fan to come crashing down from the ceiling!
The wire to the ceiling fan are meant to send voltage to the fixture only and are not usually wired to control both the light and the fan independently. In order to do that, you may have to pull another set of wires to the switch box and then connect them to the light circuit in the box where the fan is. In regards to the other wiring that you mentioned, it makes no sense that the wires go to the stove fan and the bathroom fan unless those wires are source wires that carry the incoming voltage.
This is a 3-way switch, made to control a light fixture that is also controlled by another switch in a different location. A typical example is a ceiling light fixture installed in an upstairs hallway, which could be controlled by switches at both top and bottom of the staircase.
The green wire in your switch is the ground connection, and joins to the green insulated or bare copper ground wire in the switch box. The red wire is the common connection. It connects either to the incoming AC hot wire from the electric panel, or to the hot terminal of the light fixture, depending on the switch location. The two black wires are traveller connections. They connect to the traveller terminals of the other 3-way switch.
If you purchased this switch as a replacement for a regular single-pole toggle switch or dimmer switch - one that controls a light from a single location only - then this isn't what you need and you can't use it. You'll know if you have a single-pole switch because it will have only three wires or screw connections. Return it and get a single-pole.
To install this as a replacement for a 3-way toggle switch or dimmer, connect the red wire to the wire going to the common terminal of the original switch. This will be a black- or brass-colored screw on a toggle switch, or the different-colored (not green, that's ground) wire on a dimmer. The black wires connect to the wires that go to the traveller screws (copper-colored) on a toggle switch, or the same-colored wires on a dimmer. It doesn't matter which traveller wire connects to which.
Note that if you're using a 3-way dimmer, only one of the switches can be a dimmer. The other switch has to be a plain old 3-way toggle.
Typically with only one switch controlling the fan/light the connections in the ceiling are white to white, black to black and blue. if you have a separate switch for the light and one for the fan, typically the wiring is white to white, black to black, red to blue.
We were able to unscrew the plate that sits behind the latch. 6 screws I believe. Look towards the middle back-right side you will see a red switch. Click it twice. Before we put plate back we tested oven and it worked!!! Hope this info will help you. Dacor oven has been a real problem and I'm a kitchen designer. Will never recommend Dacor anything to my clients after many oven issues.
First, turn off the circuit breaker. The three wire bundle should be the incoming power, the four wire bundle should be going to the fixture. Using a duplex switch (one with two toggles), the incoming black wire goes to one side of the switch, the outgoing black and red wires go to separate terminals on the other side of the switch. The whites are connected together. The Grounds (or bare copper) are connected together and to the switch ground screw. Hopefully both the outgoing read and black were connected to the old switch or you may have to rewire the fan to wire up the fan and light separately.
To replace the light bulb:
1. Remove the right filter and turn off the main power
2. Gently push the suction cup on the light replacement
tool A (provided with you range hood)
onto the lens of the light bulb B .
3. Turn the tool counter-clockwise until the bulb
4. Remove the tool from the bulb and put it on the
lens of the replacement bulb.
5. Screw the new bulb into the light fixture clockwise
until it is tight. Turn on power at the fuse or junction
box. Turn on the main power switch and touch
the light key to make sure it is working.
6. Replace the filter. You can download the manual here.
buy a toggle switch with 3pin
use small speaker wire attach it to red wire on unit (make sure to not UN hook red wire just add long enough speaker piece to red wire) attach it to toggle switch top (power logo) do the same for the black wire (ground) only put it in the ground on toggle switch (ground logo) attach the brake wire to the last open toggle switch turn it on and video appears while driving (follow logos on toggle switch) if this doesn't work switch the black and parking brake wires around on toggle switch
hope this helped