Dead battery or alternator?

Are you sure the crank pulley is turning the belts ?
Thats about the only thing that would affect both belts.

SOUND LIKE WEEK DEAD BATTERY OR BATTERY CABLES IS WORN OR CORRODDED.CHECK BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE 12.6 VOLTS. ALSO MAKE SURE ALTERNATOR IS CHARGING BATTERY.WITH ENGINE IDLING CHECK ALTERNATOR OUT PUT AT BATTERY SHOULD 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS. IF NOT CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND CHECK FOR LOOSE SLIPPING DAMAGE DRIVE BELT.CHECK ALTERNATOR BATTERY FEED WIRE AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR LOOSE CONNECTIONS AND DAMAGE.

• This is classic of your alternator going bad. Sometimes, when it first begins to go bad it will function on and off. Soon it just stops charging the battery all together. The battery has one function and that is to start the car. Then the alternator is ran by the belt and charges the battery and in effect runs the car. The reason for the lights coming on is the power fail in the car.
• Buying a new battery worked for a short time because the fresh battery ran the car but with no alternator to charge the battery the car soon died again.
• The fix is to replace the alternator. Do it soon or even that new battery will go bad from being drained so much.

regards, Tony

This sounds like a dead battery or connection at the battery, are you sure you ran out of gas or the car died and you thought it was gas? anyway have the battery checked and if its dead then replace it and make sure to have the alternator checked, if the alternator is not charging then the car will run until it drains the new battery, hope this helps good luck.

It's either a dead short or poor connections to the post. Good luck!

If you have to jump because it has a dead battery, the car won't run with a dead battery. The jumper car gives it enough juice to start but that is it. Check your battery, check your alternator. Hope this helps.

Your alternators should have a warranty on them...but if your car is breaking alternators, you may have the wrong size belt...maybe to small and putting to much strain on your alternator.

Go to this link & scroll down to figure #11. Explanation is above the picture. If it doesn't have 1/2" drive ratchet/bar hole in it to move it, you'll have to use a wrench on the bolt at end of the pulley, unless you see an independant adjuster there.If it's the tensioner style, it will be hard to move, but it will go.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800c1d1e

It sounds like your alternator is almost done. Thats power distribution right there. If your alternator doesnt work, your car will run for a minute or two on battery power. Then it will kill the battery. If your car starts, its not the injection system, but you might need fuel injector cleaner to just run through your fuel injection system. To check the alternator, get someone to jump your car. leave the cables connected for about five minutes letting the car run. If it still dies, you need to clean your fuel injection system. If it doesnt die, its your alternator. A alternator costs about a hundred bucks.

the numbers are 12, 41, 55
12- direct batttery inut to controller disconnected within last 50 ingnition key-on cycles
41- alternator field circuit- an open or shrted condition detected in the alternator control circuit.
55- final code - indicates the end of the scan codes

I've replaced the alternator and checked all the wiring still can't find the solution. I've posted to find out if the alternator control circuit can be repaired.