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I have a BeverageAire keg cooler. I just put in a new CO2 cartridge and keg. The beer is not tapping...barely dripping from the tap

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Two things to check first at what pressure is the regulator set too? should be i thaink about 4 pounds. also what is the temperature inside of the cooler could the lines be some what frozen?

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

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I have a danby kegerator and i just tap the keg and all its doing is spitting air with some foam and i tasted the beer it was completly flat i need help asap!!!


try changing kegs sounds like the tube in the keg is broken the keg has a tube that runs to the bottom of the keg inside and u push air into the keg to push beer thru that tube and into a cool glass and down to ur gulletbut it sounds like u have a defective keg or an empty keg

Feb 24, 2010 | Danby DKC646BLS Full Size / Pony Beer Keg...

1 Answer

I can't get my keg beer under 48 degrees, even at


clean all coils and fins and filter ...don't block exhaust with anything (should be no sugar left to ferment)

Aug 23, 2009 | Summit Commercial SBC-500 Beverage Cooler

1 Answer

Foamy beer


Keg's are normally pressurized at 13 psi. If you only set yours at 8 psi then you are going to cause problems. You should always start at least the same psi that the keg is set to. If you can talk to the keg company as they all differ some. Common problem is to lower the psi which will cause foam until you reach about 1/2 full or a little less then you should get less foam but your beer will become very flat. Too much pressure is usually better than too little, even with too much pressure you'll see the beer come out fine but will start to foam when hitting the glass/pitcher. Also note that the coupler's that Danby use are very cheap, check the CO2 vale (between CO2 line and coupler) to see if there are any cracks or anything.

Sep 27, 2008 | Danby DKC646BLS Full Size / Pony Beer Keg...

2 Answers

Too much foam


well you are right the CO2 is causing the foam you may need to replace the regulator on the tank it is most likely bypassing the bellows inside...as a temp fix you can shut down the co2 and bleed off the air then just crack open the tank to (hand) regulate the flow ..

Feb 16, 2008 | Danby DKC646BLS Full Size / Pony Beer Keg...

1 Answer

Put together


1 Chrome Rail (for attachment to Worktop)
4 Self-Tapping Screws (to attach chrome rail)
1 CO2 Cylinder Support Stand
1 CO2 Cylinder (empty)
1 CO2 Regulator (high/low pressure gauges)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose (red)
2 CO2 Air Line Hose Connectors (black)
1 Beer Keg Coupler
1 Beer Tower Unit (complete with faucet, hose and wing nut)
1 Rubber Washer (to be installed inside wing nut)
1 Beer Tower (Quick Connect) Bayonet Attachment (beer tower installation)
4 Machine Screws (to attach bayonet to beer tower)
1 Gasket (beer tower base)
1 Pull Handle (beer tower faucet)
1 Beer Keg Stand (required for 30 liter keg installations only)
1 Protective Plate (refrigerator cabinet floor)
2 Cantilever Wire Shelves (conversion to all refrigerator application)
1 Chill 'n Tap Exterior Cabinet Plug (located on worktop)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose Plug (located exterior rear cabinet)
1 Plastic Drip Tray (2 piece)

1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5.
Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator:
Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5


CHI
1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
LL'N TAP ACCESSORIES (included with this unit)

Jan 07, 2008 | Danby DKC646BLS Full Size / Pony Beer Keg...

3 Answers

Way to much head


Take out the temp sensor in the white cage on the left, and put it in a glass of water. That will measure liquid temp instead of air temp. your beer is too warm

Oct 10, 2007 | Danby DKC645BLS Compact Beverage Cooler

1 Answer

Danby Beer Keg dispenser fridge.


Draught (or Draft) beer is almost always un-pasteurized and therefore is more fragile. It should be consumed after being "tapped", and is generally truer to the flavors of the ingredients as pasteurization exposes the beer to heat and changes the flavor profile. Always use brewery approved beer line if you want to have foam free fresh tasting beer. Serving it through a plastic tube from the hardware or discount store or the plain vinyl tubing in your beer tap system you will wind up with a foamy, off tasting beer. Real draught beer is not pasteurized. It must be kept refrigerated between 35F. and 44F. A beer will become wild, turn sour and cloudy in a day or two. Below 44F. a keg of draught beer should last 20-30 days before it loses it's fresh brewery taste and aroma. Craft beers (micro brews) tend to have a shorter shelf life and you should contact the brewery for their recommendations. Why does my beer foam up? The 3 most often causes of beer foaming up are: The temperature of the beer keg The balance of the draught beer system pressures The cleanliness of the draught beer system I would suggest that you clean or replace the beer transport tube...

Aug 11, 2007 | Danby DKC645BLS Compact Beverage Cooler

5 Answers

Danby Keg Cooler foam problem


If you are getting foam then finally poors fine you have a temperature problem. If you are getting constant foam then you are probably looking at a pressure problem. First of all make sure that you let your keg sit for at least 4 hours and get down to 38 degrees before you tap the keg. Also ensure that your pressure is set to at least what the pressure is in the keg (generally 13 psi). If you can, try to ask the beer manufactures (if you use a microbrewery) what pressure to set it at. One brew master told me to start at 15 psi and adjust from there.

If you still get foam and you can guarantee that the temperature is correct then you are getting some agitation from something else. Double check all your washers and even check your stop valve on the CO2 line to the coupler. Sometimes the lines are not the correct length or even the correct diameter, when the beer is forced through the line if it starts out thin and then expands or vice versa that gives beer a chance to get agitated and cause foam.

Finally the equipment that is used on these systems are generally not that great. I had a Danby Chill'n Tap and replaced the coupler and the tap and all the lines and that solved my issues, even though my problem was probably a cracked valve for the < $80 it cost me to replace everything it wasn't worth my time to figure out exactly what was wrong with it.

Jul 26, 2007 | Danby DKC646BLS Full Size / Pony Beer Keg...

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