Question about Smeg DWD612C Built-in Dishwasher

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E2 fault I've tried everything I can think of to help the sensor realise that there isn't too much water in the cavity yet it still keeps stopping very early on in the programme and flashes this fault. Any ideas about what's causing it and how I might best rectify it without resorting to expensive tech. help? aye Andy

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Re: E2 fault

The fault is being caused by a blocked side fill chamber and or a blocked sump fill tube,depending on the model, remove the filter and look for a black rubber flap on the right side at the back of sump, remove the flap and discard, clean out the pipe, this pipe goes to the side chamber, remove the right side of the machine and remove the side fill chamber to do this remove the large nut in the inside of machine, half way up the side, remove two screws in the lower section of side chamber, remove and clean out, some of the water ways are very small if you cannot clean it out you will need to replace the chamber. Regards Engineer

Posted on Aug 04, 2007

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I use this dishwasher in a florist to clean wax out of candle glass and recently it is not working. E4 codes appear, and it over flows sometimes.

this all I can find Machine will not fill or will not fill high enough. (Display shows E0, E2, E3 or E4. Machine will not run). 1. Low water pressure - check for clogged hose strainer; ensure the site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures. 2. Make sure probes are clean. (See Cleaning.) 3. No water pressure - main water supply valves may not be working. 4. Anti-siphon valve - located in the lower left area of the chamber just above the water line. Drain the machine and insert toothpick or similar object into hole to verify ball (3?16" OD) is free to float. 5. Delime machine perhaps the wax is plugging up the floating ball area

Apr 20, 2015 | Hobart 24 in. LXIH-3 Built-in Dishwasher

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My Blomberg dishwasher wont stop drain cycle

A common cause of this condition results from water in the base pan. This may result from a leak in the dishwasher or the drain hose (to the sink drain) backing up. First check the base pan (the very bottom assembly that all other components are mounted within) for any moisture - this can be difficult as there are only narrow openings between the tank and the base pan; a mirror can help or you might have to pull the unit out from the cabinet to access the sides. If there is moisture in the pan this problem must be corrected as the unit is just trying to protect against water damage from a leak. If the base pan assembly is dry, look at the float assembly (behind the water fill valve) as insects or rodents can sometimes interfere with the proper operation of this sensor. That causes the control to think there is a water leak. When this fault occurs everything is turned off and the drain pump runs continuously to eliminate any water from inside the dishwasher.

Apr 06, 2013 | Blomberg DWT14210

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F1 code

F1 is a flood sensor fault code. The problem sometimes comes from loading the machine above the top of the drawer. When the inside lid comes down before the dishwasher starts, it cannot seal completely and water can spray into the outer cavity. The water accumulates in the inner bottom where there is a sensor. The sensor protects the electronic components from getting wet by warning you of the water which you cannot see. The solution is to remove the bottom drawer and wipe out, then dry the compartment with a fan or a small space heater. Once dry, the machine will function as usual.

Jan 24, 2013 | Fisher DD603FCSS Dishwasher

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Hi I have a DD603 F & P dish drawer. I had an F2 fault, found the rotor motor seized. I've replaced that but F2 still comes up & the water doesn't drain away. Any ideas?

Before we talk about water not draining away, can you confirm if the wash arms rotate during the wash cycle. The rotor works as a wash pump and drain pump depending on which cycle it is in.

If F2 keeps coming then it is also likely there is some debris in the rotor cavity which is grinding on the rotor. But one needs to be sure if F2 is coming up only in drain cycle or is it already on during wash cycle.

May 16, 2011 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD603H SS...

3 Answers

My drawers are both flashing F1 and sound as though they are in high gear. I have unplugged them. Please advise. Please give detailed instructions.

F1 signifies that the flood sensor in the rear of the cavity on the bottom drawer has been activated. This is caused by water leaking into the rear of the drawer. I have had the same problem with my own and also repaired a friends unit which was doing the likewise.

Firstly you will need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the flood sensor. Turn the unit off at the wall power outlet before you touch anything! You need to pull the drawer out fully and then activate the tabs on the left and right side at the bottom front of the drawer to move in move it out further and off the tracks.
Make sure you have some towels on the floor in front of the unit. Once you have the drawer out lay it on it's right side on top of the towels. There will be an amount of water still in the unit which will likely drain onto the towels as you do so. Now you will be able to see into the drawer cavity, preferably with a torch, and also see the flood sensor on the rear left hand side. You should also notice a fair bit of water in the bottom of the cavity. As you've made sure the power is off, you can mop up the water.
The plastic cover over the flood sensor can be gently removed by pressing down and sliding it to the right. Once the cover is off you can again mop up the excess water before using a hairdryer to fully dry the flood sensor out. Don't put the hairdryer too close to the flood sensor, just let the warm air slowly dry things out over a 10-15min period.
Once it is all dried reverse the above instructions to put the unit back together. Be sure to make certain the both the left and right tabs are engaged when you are putting the drawer back onto the rails. There should be a positive click if they are engaged properly. If not undo them fully and try again. You will notice that if either side is not engaged properly the drawer won't run in and out smoothly.

Now you can try to run each drawer. I prefer to test the top one first on a short rinse cycle. If that runs without any problems do the same of for the lower drawer. If you don't get any errors you're in business. If you do then read on for further help.

If the F1 code comes up after running either drawer then you've narrowed down which one is the problem. You will again need to remove the offending drawer and check the drainage hose. There will likely be a split at some point along the drainage hose. It's quite fiddly to remove the old one. Note: You can only get a replacement hose from an authorised parts supplier. This is due to the narrow diameter of the hose and the couple which joins the pump under the drawer. Before you throw the old one out, make sure you remove the small rubber valve. It would appear to prevent backflow into the pump and is not supplied with the replacement.
I didn't totally remove the clear housing from the motor assembly, but was able to remove it part way and gently open it enough to get the old hose out. In order to more easily complete the fit of the new hose, I would recommend carefully removing the whole unit from the wall cavity. Make sure you disconnect the inlet hose, power and drainage hoses under your sink. This allows the unit to move freely from the cavity without damaging anything. There are four securing tabs inside the bottom drawer cavity which need to be removed to do this. (All quite clear in the instruction manual).
If you are at this stage I would also recommend installing the 'retro fit link support'. It is much more practical and robust when compared to the plastic one the originally came with the unit. It has a metal rod and a mount that fits into the corner of the draw cavity. Makes much more sense than the plastic rod that came with the units I've repaired.

Jun 28, 2010 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

After dishwasher completes cycle, it starts again. It will keep going unless we stop it.

If the cycle does not stop that is usually because of a faulty water level sensor. The floater that controls the water level in your appliance.The faulty sensor cause the machine to think that there is still water inside, even when water has drained completely. Check if sensor is stuck or if switch is faulty.Some machine may use a membrane switch instead of a floater.

Mar 27, 2010 | Whirlpool Gold 24 in. Built-In Dishwasher...

1 Answer

I have a Matsui MS160SLI dishwasher it keeps on draining and will not fill with water. I have tried everything in the manual but nothing works. Help.

If the cycle does not stop draining that is usually because of a faulty water level switch that controls the water level in your appliance.
The faulty sensor cause the machine to think that there is still water inside, even when water has drained completely.
Check if the floating sensor is stuck or faulty.
Some machine may use a membrane switch instead of a floater.

Apr 13, 2009 | Neff 24 in. S5543X2 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

E2 error in smeg dishwasher

e2 is overfill or flooded base.
take the bottom front panel off and see if there is water in it and if so, mop it out. if it reoccurs, then you have a leak.
you will see a float device in the front approx middle and this is what actuates e2. if fault is intermittant, try putting a small weight on this - a washer for example.
if e2 is being caused by overfill and not a flooded base, then the water intake moulding needs replacing

Nov 20, 2008 | Smeg 24 in. DWD1SSE-1 Built-in Dishwasher

5 Answers

Telmann washing machine TEL6TL

Telemann TEL6tl E2 Problem

E2 on screen means the lid is not closing properly and thus not activating the (hidden) switch that prevents the machine from spinning while the lid is up.

The lid switch in this model is not a direct contact switch between lid and switch , but it switches on and off due to a MAGNET embedded in the lid on the left hand side near the front. You will see a small indentation where the magnet SHOULD BE. My magnet had fallen off, so the lid could not activate the operation switch. I had lost the original magnet( about 1cm X 2cm) so glued another into place.

Machine is now fully operational again, and the job cost .78c.

If your magnet is still in place, the E2 fault could lay with the switch itself , which is fixed to the underside of the top casing of the machine near the front right hand side of the lid cavity. The switch measures 1cm X 3cm heavily black tape insulated. Access is gained by popping the 2 X2cm discs at front top of machine and releasing the 2 small philips screws here and a further 2 at the back top of machine. This operation of replacing the switch is best left to an electrician or washing machine specialist.

Hope that helps


Nov 01, 2008 | Dishwashers

2 Answers

Error messages on a EuroTech EDW154E dishwasher??

Eurotech Dishwashers are notorious for the E1 and E4 faults. The problem is with the solenoid they use for filling the dishwasher. The problem is something called the "Venturi Effect". The Venturi effect is the reduction in fluid pressure that results when a fluid flows through a constricted section of pipe. The fluid velocity must increase through the constriction to satisfy the equation of continuity. while its pressure must decrease due to conservation of energy. The gain in kinetic energy is balanced by a drop in pressure or a pressure gradient force. I know, a lot of big words. To put it simply, the orifice within the solenoid is smaller than the inlets and outlets. Even more simply put: Not enough water is getting into the dishwasher. It's a design flaw and I'm not certain there are many ways around it. Just make certain that you have a good water feed to the dishwasher (no kinks, valve on completley etc.). One thing you may try is reducing the feed pressure (i.e. slightly turn down the water valve supply to the dishwasher). Doing so may diminish the venturi effect by equalizing inlet pressure. It's worth a try.

Dec 30, 2007 | EuroTech 24 in. EDW154E Built-in...

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