Thermostat at 70, shuts off at 62. stays only 1/2 hour at at time
The Thermostat is new, honeywell, dial style. All was working until recently. Now we have to turn the thermostat down to below showing temp, (62) listen for click. then turn it back up until it clicks again. The furnace goes on after 2 or 3 tries and only stays on for about 20-30 minutes. Goes for hours before it will try to restart then it fails several times. LED like does not send a specific signal, it just keeps flashing on and off.
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Re: thermostat at 70, shuts off at 62. stays only 1/2...
What LED are you talking about that keeps flashing?
If it's the LED on the controller board in the furnace, they blink with a cadence that you need to watch. There will be a data sheet somewhere on the furnace that will tell you what the cadence (flash cadence) is.
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check the selector switch on the thermostat and if you have gas, it should be on HG. If you have electric, it should be on HE. If you have an amp meter(clamp on style), check the white wire for amperage with the heat on. What ever the reading(.7 for example) set the heat anticipator located on the subbase to that number. this is for efficiency and must be set to the proper setting or the heat will not cut in and out properly
The thermostat that you have is position sensitive. By that I mean that you need to have it in the right position for it to work correctly.
When you have the ring off of the thermostat loosen the two little screws and pull the thermostat away from the subbase. On the subbase you will see a line that needs to be level. If it is not level then the mercury bulb will not be in the right position to start and stop the furnace. Level the subbase and reassemble the thermostat and your furnace should start to work properly. If not then the thermostat is probbaly bad.
When they go bad it is often becasue ot the little arm that you refeered too. That is a small heater than actually fakes the thermosat into thionking that it is hotter in the room then it really is. This makes the furnaces shut down a bit early to combat overshoot. Adjusting that will determine how much time before the furnace hits the shutdown temperature that it will actually shutdown... got that?? In others ward it is probably a good idea not tp mess with that unless you know what you are doing. However the heater can burn out and create problems.
So, check that the thermostat is level and if not get a new t-stat...
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
You did not make it clear if the thermostat is a programmable unit or not. I am wondering if the thermostat is not set on the correct heat anticipation setting. A heat anticipater is a small heater that helps the thermostat turn off before it over shoots the desired temperature setting. If the thermostat is set for a 5 degree setting, it will turn off at 63 degrees if set at 68. If the anticipater was set at 1 or 2 degrees, it will shut off the heater at 66 or 67. Newer thermostats will only allow the thermostat to cycle 6 times per hour so if you never reach the desired temp, you have to wait 10 minutes before it will allow a call for heat. Check the installation instructions to see if there is a setting where you can get the anticipator temperature closer to your set temp. Good luck.
The Thermostat Wizard is an interactive tool that will guide you through wiring and troubleshooting your thermostat, as well as programming it to the most comfortable settings for you and your family. Simply answer the questions from the Thermostat Wizard to correctly connect, troubleshoot and/or program your Honeywell Thermostat. You can even print the instructions and bring them right to the thermostat to help make things easier. Go to: http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consumer/Cultures/en-US/Support/Thermostat+Wizard/
However - the problem is probably not with your thermostat but with your furnace. It is most likely a dirty flame sensor - a maintenance issue. If you have not had your furnace serviced recently (more than 1 year) that is where you should start. Modern furnaces require regular maintenance.
Well with a boiler system like you have it will cost you more money to heat your house that way than if you leave it like it is. With a boiler system it takes a lot longer to heat an area than with a furnace. The best thing you can do is find a happy medium and leave it there at all times. If you read the paper work on your new thermostats they have a set procedure which tells the thermostat if you have forced air or boiler system. Do you have baseboard or in-floor heat how many zones do you have.
I never liked the user un-friendliness of the Chromatherm, I would suggest finding a thermostat that you can understand and operate. Yes the Chromatherm is a good one, but so damned hard to figure out. Stay away from thermostats that still use mercury. Good Luck!
If you have an ML300HGA, it is a manual-control heater, which means you turn it on and you turn it off. No thermostat. It does not have an AUTO setting.
Likewise, the thermostat-controlled models do not have a Manual mode. If you have the ML300TBA, it has a thermostat and will turn itself on/off in order to maintain a room temperature.
On manual models, the numbers (if any) on the dial are heat output selections. Set the control to the highest heat setting and that's what it does until you turn it off.
On automatic thermostat models, the numbers on the dial are temperature selections. Set the control to the highest heat setting and the heater will continue running until it is 85-90 degrees, then shut off. Set it around 2 and it will maintain a temp of around 70 degrees.
All Procom heaters are either automatic (thermostat-controlled) or Manual. None are both.