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Power drive engage / diengage problem

The power drive sometimes will not engage, or once engaged will not dis-engage unless i pick up the rear of mower & ''bump'' it on ground. is this a case of ''stretched out'' cable from the engagement handle? Have readjusted this several times. It seems to work for a while. The drive gears do not appear to be worn.

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  • stretch226 Jan 31, 2009

    Mr. fixit-jerr. Thanks for the come back - it may be a sticking cable problem. Have used WD40 on the cable, have adjusted the length several times, It is a Honda HRM215 which has been an excellent mower, except for the clutch engagement problem.

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: The front wheels on my lawn mower have locked

I had this same issue. In my case, the sheild that keeps the dirt out of the gears in the wheel has gotten broke and the gears filled with junk and jammed the wheels. I just have to take the wheels off and blow the junk off the gears.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

jgr4
  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Scotts Classic 20" drive gear problem

In addition to lubrication problems, the plastic pinion gears can wear down or deform. This can cuase them not to engage, even if well-lubed.

I found some replacements at http://www.reelin.com. The parts number for the pinion gear is 30737-2, 30737-3 (left and right) for the Scotts Classic.

You can find the owner's manual, with part numbers, here:
http://www.reelmowersetc.com/2000-20.pdf

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

jgr4
  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: Scotts reel mower gear problem

I found some replacements at http://www.reelin.com. The parts number for the pinion gear is 30737-2, 30737-3 (left and right) for the Scotts Classic.

You can find the owner's manual, with part numbers, here:
http://www.reelmowersetc.com/2000-20.pdf

Posted on Jul 14, 2009

rwvanlue
  • 375 Answers

SOURCE: craftsman self propelled walk behind lawn mower

Normally grass and debris are clogged under the belt/transmission cover, preventing the full engagement of the transmission cable/lever.

The cover is located on the topside, left front corner of the mower shell. Clean debris, try it again. If OK, re-install cover, If not, there is a cable adjustment (threaded portion with a nut on either side of a fastening arm) move the cable adjustment towards the rear, this will tighten the cable. Sometimes the cable assembly (includes the cable and the control box) needs to be replaced

Posted on Nov 08, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: how do I replace the clutch cable on my honda self

I fixed the drive cable just yesterday. If the model is exactly hrx217hxa with the serial number between MAGA–1000001 and 139999 as mine is, it can be quite involved to replace the cable if this is the first time, because honda wants to replace the "control arm" as well. You can find a detailed instruction to replace the drive cable from the following link.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=281234

The part number that you need to order is 06225-VH7-305, which comes with a very brief instruction on how to replace based on the service manual (not the user manual). The above link will guide you to how to replace the cable, but since the transmission end of the cable changed, you need to replace the "control arm" as well. This requires to disengage the drive "belt", which is the first challenge. Once you disengage it, it is relatively straight forward to replace the "control arm" if you have the right tools (1/8" pin punch and a challen lock plier which are described in the instruction that came with the cable kit).
Engaging the drive belt back on is the biggest challenge in the whole process, unless you have the right tool to handle the powerful spring that pulls the whole transmission to give friction to the drive belt. I spent two hours to try to engage the belt without the right tool (probably you need a "brake spring tool"), and I finally did it.
The rest of the assembly process is straight forward if you memorize what you did for disassembly. The above link can help you as well.
I took pictures of every step, and am going to post it somewhere soon, but if you want to replace it soon, please send me a message if you need help.

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

  • 146 Answers

SOURCE: cub cadet pto won,t stay engaged

Sounds more like a PTO clutch failure, rather than the switch. The clutch is mounted on the engine shaft, between the hydrostatic drive pulley (nearest the chassis) and the mower deck belt pulley (farther from the chassis).
Since it's an expensive part, make sure the problem isn't in the switch or wiring first. You could do that by probing the wires to the PTO clutch with an automotive test light - they are inexpensive and handy. Clip the ground wire of the test light to the chassis, and probe the hot wire to the clutch (it's the one that doesn't connect to ground) when the engine is running and the PTO switch is engaged. Obviously a helper has to be in the seat, and you should be careful doing this. If the light glows brightly, and the clutch doesn't engage, you definitely have a bad clutch. Good luck! Please rate my answer if helpful, thanks.

Posted on Jul 07, 2010

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I fixed the drive cable just yesterday. If the model is exactly hrx217hxa with the serial number between MAGA–1000001 and 139999 as mine is, it can be quite involved to replace the cable if this is the first time, because honda wants to replace the "control arm" as well. You can find a detailed instruction to replace the drive cable from the following link.

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=281234

The part number that you need to order is 06225-VH7-305, which comes with a very brief instruction on how to replace based on the service manual (not the user manual). The above link will guide you to how to replace the cable, but since the transmission end of the cable changed, you need to replace the "control arm" as well. This requires to disengage the drive "belt", which is the first challenge. Once you disengage it, it is relatively straight forward to replace the "control arm" if you have the right tools (1/8" pin punch and a challen lock plier which are described in the instruction that came with the cable kit).
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The rest of the assembly process is straight forward if you memorize what you did for disassembly. The above link can help you as well.
I took pictures of every step, and am going to post it somewhere soon, but if you want to replace it soon, please send me a message if you need help.

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