Question about Jenn-Air 30 in. CCE3401 Electric Cooktop

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Kenmore electric stove dual burner goes to high heat.

Dual heat surface element will heat to high on both inner and outer elements. i.e. turn switch to single lo inner element goes to high heat, turn switch to dual lo and both inner and outer elements go to high heat. Is this a dual infinite switch problem or could this be a limiter switch problem on the heating element? Not sure how the limiter switch works.

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  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Are you watching the elements without a pan on the burner?

    I believe the sensing system requires that there be a load on it (in terms of a mass, not weight.).


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5 Suggested Answers

WhIzAtIt
  • 136 Answers

SOURCE: Burners are not fully heating out to the end

Either the elements are going out or the controlls for the burners are getting croded contacts. Best bet would be to replace both and go for another 7 years :-)

Posted on Sep 15, 2007

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: knob not working and some burners not heating

The switch under that knob is bad.  It's called an infinite switch.  As far as the elements go, first thing to check is for proper voltage (220) to the cooktop.  Let me know what you find.

Posted on Oct 19, 2007

Eddie Rentas
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Heating element will not come on

The best to test that is to remove the top and take the outer coil and use it on any of the other burners to see if it heats up, then youll know for sure is the element or the switch.
Eddie Rentas
Tupper Lake NY

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Burner temperature is always on high heat even at low setting

not related any further then sounds as if you have 2 burner switches gone bad,and actually the front right burner is controlled by a electronic control circuit board part retails for about $160-$200 part number 12002723, and left rear switch about $30 part number 74007841 . uint needs to be uninstalled from counter and parts changed by removing the bottom panel

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

jtbjtb
  • 135 Answers

SOURCE: JEC9530, dual element burner(right front) does not

This coulb be either the switch or the burner. Either can be tested with an ohmmeter if you can read the wiring diagram. Hope this helps!

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

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COOKTOP


its been my experience that the dual burner switch is far more likely the culprit, unless you can physiclaly see the outer ring is broken( visual inspection works wonders. as far as trying to ohm out i generally look at theelemnet itself (4 wires lead to the elemnt you can trace 1 to the outer portion of element, and 1 to the inner portion.WITH POWER OFF Iswithc those 2 wires and the restore power try element ad watch for outer ring to work inner ring no good. now i know its the switch not sending power. reset wires and order new switch

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