The right burner that toggles from small to large size is not working. I noticed that the rod that the nob attaches to is not pulled up. When I pull it up in order that the nob can fit on it, the stove burner flashes under the glass top and the cooktop makes a popping noise and the entire breaker panel in the house gets tripped and the power goes off in the house.
Why is the nob connection to the burner acting this way?
Am I able to look inside the cooktop?
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Re: Electric Glass GE Profile Cooktop Burner popping
Yes the knob is attached to a switch and the switch to the burner by way of wires..you can get into the cook top.but with your description of whats going on i would have the switch with me and then may only have too take apart once.there is a chance your burner is bad,but as you describe the way the switch is acting is seems pretty sure just the switch.you can order switch on line you need your model and ser#
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First, i tried turning on/off power with no luck. if you get this code you will probably just need to replace the LF burner, which is pretty easy to do. i researched and found GE OEM parts from appliance zone. info is below:
ApplianceZone.com Items 1 Stove / Oven / Range Radiant Element Lf - WB30T10080 (OEM) @ $170.67 = $170.67 Sub-Total: $170.67 Shipping: $6.95 Standard Shipping (6.95) USD ApplianceZone.com Total: $177.62
Once i received then new burner i just replaced it and all is working fine, no error code! First i turned off all power and removed my cooktop from my counter and unscrewed the sheet metal shroud on the bottom, only remove the screws around the perimeter of shroud closets to glass, they are small black Phillips screws, like 15 screws total. i didn't disconnect any wires from the unit to junction box, you should be able to leave all that alone if you have a long enough connection. i made the mistake of leaving the cooktop upside down when removing the metal shroud, don't do this. there are springs on posts that keep the burners tight to the glass and will fall out (if up side down). leave the cooktop right side up and just lift off the glass once you remove all screws, when lifting the glass off, there is one plug at the circuit board attached to glass that you will need to unplug to completely remove the glass and set aside. you will see the 4 burners, i took a picture of the unit with glass removed to make sure i could reference any wires when i was re-installing new burner. i unplugged all wires to LF burner and unplugged the harness from the circuit board. once i removed old burner i noticed the new burner doesn't include the 2 tabs you need. i removed them from the old burner and made sure to install them in the same location on the new burner. I than plugged in all wires and harness back into the unit and set burner on posts with springs. carefully replace glass and don't forget to plug the glass top circuit board back into the unit circuit board. re-attach metal shroud and screws, drop in and done! there are instructions to re-calibrate the new burner which is probably a good idea, i didn't and it is working just fine! good luck
You need the switch for that burner. The contacts inside are stuck together. You will need to pull the unit and separate the glass from the lower body to access it. To get the right switch you need full model and serial number located on a plate at the bottom of the unit.
Your ability to perform this is dependent on how mechanical you are. The Whole unit must be removed from the counter opening and the base unscrewed from the glass, remove knobs before disassembling. For someone mechanical this is not difficult. De-energize whole unit first.
Once the two pieces are separated the remainder is mechanically easier. Disassemble the box on right containing the switches and replace the correct one. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good Luck
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Confirm there is 240 VAC powering the unit (make sure a breaker has not tripped or a fuse blown.).
Did the burners ever produce enough heat?
If yes, then we can look deeper. If no, then the burners may not be adequate for your cooking style. Burners are like light bulbs. A 60 watt bulb will put out more light than a 40 watt bulb. A 100 watt bulb will put out more light than a 60. Typically, a small burner will provide less cooking heat than a large burner.
This is for the glass top units. well i'm not sure if your problem is with your large or small single burner or the large expandable burner. If it's the large or small single burner replace the burner and if it the expandable also replace the burner. If you have a coil burner replace the infinite switch. Good luck hope this helps you.
It sounds like the burner needs to be replaced. When they burn out sometimes they short out to ground. The cooktop will have to be removed from the counter and the glass top opened. You will probably be able to see where the element is burned out. Replace it and you should be fine. If it is too expensive to fix just disconnect the wires to the burner where they attach to the control . Then you can use the remaining burners. I really don't know what a replacement burner costs. An open coil is around $30.