Question about General Electric GE SmartWater Household Water Filtration System - GNWH38F

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GE Water Filter - GXSL55F - Need Replacement fitting-

The adapter that goes inline on the cold water pipe has a slow leak, tried using a good quality teflon tape but I have removed the adapter several times and now the threads are damaged. Where can I find a replacement?

Thanks

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  • jeff_harris Jan 30, 2009

    Thanks.


    I got it a HD so I'll try there.

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  • 56 Answers

Remove the old one then take it with you try going to Lowe's or Home Depo or any plumbing supply they will point you in the right dirrection

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

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How and where does the water go in


The cold water enters the top, but the water is not released into tank at the top. The cold water goes through a "dip tube" This takes the cold water to the bottom of the tank. If you dip tube fails, or breaks, your faucet temperature will slowly drop as you use hot water (vs giving you 60% of tank at full temperature before temperature starts dropping) In normal operation, the cold water is released near bottom of tank, the hot water rises to top, and comes out of the top of the tank.

Jan 27, 2015 | Water Water Heaters

1 Answer

Rhepre 40-4 wtr heater leaking from cold water intake


Firstly, don't confuse condensation on the pipe with a leak. The cold water inside the pipe makes the pipe cold. The warmer air around the pipe causes condensation to appear - much the way a glass of cold water "sweats" on a table in a warm room.

Next, determine exactly where the source of the leak is. If it is at a soldered or threaded junction of pipes or pipe an tank, you should be able to solve it - if you know how to solder.

You'll have to power off the tank at the circuit breaker (or shut off the gas supply if not an electric type) before doing anything else. Next, shut off the cold water supply to the tank. This valve must be on the supply side of the leak. If the leak is ahead of the valve, you might need to shut off the water to the entire building. Then, open the closest hot water faucet. Finally, lower the water level of the tank by draining the tank from the bottom valve (you'll need to connect a garden hose to it and run the end to the outdoors, shower drain, toilet, etc.). Keep in mind - the water will not drain "up hill". That means the end of the hose must be lower than the top of the tank. You do not need to drain the entire contents of the heater unless you need to physically move it (or if it is a natural gas or propane type - as a licensed plumber or pipe fitter will be required to disconnect / reconnect the fuel line). A few gallons of water should be enough to allow working on the pipe without causing spills.

Disconnect the cold water supply pipe from the tank - above the source of the leak. You may have to do this by un-soldering the nearest pipe coupling with a propane or mapp gas torch. Soak a thick cloth in cold water and wrap it around the pipe at the tank's inlet to prevent the heat from the torch from damaging the plastic inlet fitting inside the tank. If the inlet connector is melted or damaged; the entire tank must be replaced. Additionally, you might need to unsolder the hot water piping to get better access to the cold water pipe. Only disconnect as much as needed to do the job.

Once the pipe(s) are disconnected, remove the section of pipe that mates with the leak. You will probably need wrenches to unthread pipe sections or fittings so that you can carefully inspect the male and female threads. Fully remove the pipes & fittings and obtain replacements as needed.

You might want to think about installing unions on the hot and cold water pipes. These will make future removal of the tank very easy with no need for soldering. Doing this will increase the time it takes to do the job this time, but simplifies tank removal in the future. You're already into this job - and its only few more extra steps.

Before reassembly, you should provide several wraps of teflon tape around the threaded portion of all male pipe threads. Telfon tape is highly suggested as it is clean and very easy to work with when compared with pipe dope that is applied with a brush. Carefully thread the pipes into the fitting(s) on the tank hand tight. If you are presented enough pipe or fitting to hold the tank inlet fitting, do so with a wrench. Use a second wrench to fully tighten the pipe into fitting. If there is no way to hold the inlet fitting, use a wrench to tighten the pipe about an additional full turn. Always use two wrenches to tighten pipes into fittings when possible. Make up any other threaded fittings (unions, etc.) and pipes as needed. Dry fit the copper pipes together - cut long pieces and replace short pieces of pipes as needed. Once all the pieces are are the correct length and fit together properly prepare for soldering. Clean the outside ends of all copper pipes and insides of couplings and connectors to be soldered with emery cloth, sand paper, or wire brush tools designed for expressly this purpose etc. until they are fully scuffed up and are bright and shiny. Wipe any dust and debris from the pipe with a clean, dry cloth. Try not to touch the cleaned parts of the pipe with bare hands. Apply a light coating of soldering flux to the cleaned ends and fit the pipes with couplings together again like the dry fitting earlier. Place a wet cloth around the pipes nearest the inlets (as before when removing the pipes) once again.

Heat the couplings and fittings one at a time with just enough heat to cause the solder to be wicked into the fitting. It is important not over heat the fittings or pipes. Be sure to let solder flow all the way around the pipes and into both ends of the coupling to ensure a complete solder seal both in and out of the coupling. Wipe away excess solder with a wet cloth to keep your work good looking. Once one fitting has been completed, go to the next and repeat until all fittings and pipes are soldered and clean. A good soldered joint should have a ring of solder visible all the way around the pipe inside the edge of the coupling.

If you've never soldered before, you should practice before doing this repair. Botched soldered joints could result in water damage and additional repair work that is greater than the original problem. Of course, a licensed plumber will make short work of this job and is an excellent alternative to DIY when money for the repair is available.

Good luck!

Dec 18, 2011 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

2 Answers

Low boy water heater leaks at point where cold water pipe enters caseing.The leak is below the threads.The caseing is rusted at the point where the pipe goes through.Can this rusted place be patched or...


1) Your water heater needs to be replaced.
It cannot be repaired.
Tanks rust out after anode rod is depleted unless anode is inspected and replaced 1-3 years.
Water softener causes anode to deplete quicker, so inspect every 2 years.
Also stray household current can cause tank to rust out. Put bare copper ground wire between hot and cold pipes on new heater.

2) First thing is protect yourself from tank rupture where water heater bursts open and water runs until it's shut off. Ruptured tanks are big topic in homeowner insurance industry today because they cause major damage inside house.

- Turn off heat source so tank is not under pressure:
Gas: Rotate dial to pilot so pilot light stays lit, but burner does not turn on
Electric: turn off circuit breaker

- Turn off water going into tank using shut off above tank.
- Open hot side to bathtub to relieve pressure from tank.
- Check label on side of tank to get tank specifications for replacement.

3) What to do until replacement.
You can get by for a while on leaking tank by turning it ON only when needed.
Make sure tank is full of water before turning heat source back on.
This will buy time until replacement.
Electric tank heats 21 gallons water per hour.
Gas water heater 41 gallons per hour
Shower uses 6-9 gallons hot water, bath uses 12-15 gallon hot water.

4) Additional reading so next tank lasts longer
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html

Dec 05, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have a G6A88E water heater in my rv it runs great except behind the front on the bottom on the right as you are looking at it there is a 1 1\2 about pipe that is leaking is there any way to fix this


From description it Sounds like your bottom hook-up for water line coming in.(cold inlet) Depending on what type of connection you have on water line, it may just need tightening, if not it may require a new fitting installed, or the actual 1/2" NPT nipple going in to tanks is faulty. They use plastic, or galvanized pipe nipples usually, but in some cases you may find a check valve there. Either way, you'll have to determine exactly where it's leaking first. Depending on age of tank, it may even be the piece of aluminum welded to tank where 1/2" pipe nipple is installed. I've has 2 this year that rotted right through that and caused a leak, and had to replace the tanks. Let's hope yours just needs tightening, or a fitting replaced. Make sure you use good pipe dope when changing that nipple if necessary. Many use Teflon tape as well on threads, but I've had better luck with pipe dope.

Oct 31, 2010 | RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon

1 Answer

MY GE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE HAS JUST STARTED LEAKING. WHAT SHOULD I DO ? GE SMART WATER HEATER GELN0705CO3984


Hello,
You can buy a replacement relief valve at any hardware or home improvement store. It's real name is a T&P valve or temperature and pressure relief valve. It always has a 3/4" inlet and outlet. It is a very easy procedure to replace. You will need a bucket, teflon pipe thread tape, and a 3/4" x 6" black iron or galvanized pipe nipple. To start the valve replacement, turn off the shuttoff valve on the cold water line. Then open the handle on the relief valve and drain water into the bucket, that is, unless you have a pvc pipe coming off of it into a drain floor, then just drain it without the bucket. Be careful, the water is hot! When the water level gets below the relief valve, it will stop draining. Then remove the pvc pipe, if applicable, and thread in the 6" pipe nipple to use as a leverage tool to remove the valve from the water tank. Turn it counter clockwise to remove. Then put teflon tape on the new valve, going from left to right with the valve threads facing downward. Wrap about 3-4 layers all around the threads. Then twist the new valve into the water tank clockwise and using the pipe nipple tighten by hand until very snug and outlet is facing downward, as before. Remove the pipe nipple and install pvc pipe, if applicable. Leave valve handle open and turn on the cold water until the valve starts spitting, then close the relief valve and let it fill up the tank. If you did it correctly, you are now finished! Good luck!
Douglas

Jun 14, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

It's leaking slowly from the top It's a Rheem 82v52-2 water heater and we came home and there was a puddle of water in the floor. It's a slow and steady leak. It starts at the top on the right side. I...


if the line feels cold its the fill line if warm its the hot line either line try to tighten the connection if no good or leak is from solder or connection if u have valves to and out shut them off or turn off main open a faucet relieve pressure at heater either solder the line to repair or if connection Teflon tape joint and retighten connection good luck and thanks for using fixya

Oct 10, 2009 | Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

2 Answers

I have water leaking from the bottom of my waterheater PE50T9A


It is possible that the water heater has a leak at the bottom. They eventually rust out. The valve should be removed if it is leaking and you should replace it. They are cheap. Be sure to use teflon tape to seal it back up

Apr 27, 2009 | Water Heaters

3 Answers

I have a Rinnai system. Good cold water pressure, little hot.


What type of pipes are install on this heater?

Mar 13, 2009 | Water Heaters

6 Answers

Slow water flow from GE SmartWater under sink water filter.


I solved the problem! The system's manifold (the plastic base you put the filter in) has small black conical shape button. When you tight the filter in, one of the two small triangle-shaped cams (located close to the filter's central hole) pushes the manifold's button, and this opens the water flow. The problem is that the cams are too low and do not push the button all the way in. Take a pliers and squeeze (not too much!) the cams, so they will raise a little: it will be enough to push the button to open the flow completely.

Mar 11, 2009 | General Electric GE SmartWater Household...

2 Answers

Flexible copper water heater with washer leaks at cold inlet .


pipe dope not needed tighten snug then one quarter turn is recommended by most mfg

Dec 18, 2008 | Watts Copper Corrugated Water Heater...

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