I WAS TRYING TO CONNECT WORES AT THE BACK OF THE SYSTEM WHEN TWO TOUCHED THERE WAS A TEMP LOSS OF SOUND. tHE SOUND CAME BACK BUT ON THE DIPLAY THERE IS A MESSGE THAT SAYS "IC POWER DAMAGE"!! THE SOUND WORKS FINE AND DEMO ON THE SCREEN EVEN COMES UP. HOWEVER I CANOT ACCESS THE MENU TO ADJUST BALANACE FADAR ETC BECAUSE WHEN I TRY THIS THE DISPLAY JUST DISPLAYS IC POWER DAMAGE. I AM STUCK ON WHAT TO DO AS THE SOUNS STILL COME OUT AND DEMO DISPALY WORKS WHEN NOT IN OPERATION.
PLEASE HELP ME SOME ONE
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Re: IC POWER DAMAGE
Take the unit off the wiring harness and hold unit in your hand , find the reset and push the reset button for 7-10 seconds....afterwards plug in the harness and turn on the unit...and it should work as new...i hope this helps...i have the same unit
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It is possible that the shorting might have resulted in creating a damage within the set and it must be probed first with the power connected diectly , then the swithced power and tthe ground. now trace the power +12 to the main circuit after switched power is on.
If there is a line fuse you are lucky as much a fusible resisitor.
If there is power to mP then check for oscillations , the allied circuits.
If set powers up check the output IC,possible if the output has shorted the protecction canbe ON. so disconnect power to IC and check.
If protect is coming up on the display, it means the system is detecting a short somewhere on one of the speakers and so is turning the amp off to avoid damage. Check all the connections at the back of the amp to ensure they are not shorting, and at the back of each speaker, if nothing is found there, check each wire for damage, or a bare wire touching the body of the car
Being on a boat for 4 years may indicate that there could be some water damage on the main board. If you can take it out and remove the bottom panel to look at the circuit board you may be able to see if there is any water damage. You would be surprised at how water can get into places that seem water tight.
If you find any corroded area of the board, try using an old toothbrush or something like that to remove the corrosion. You can use rubbing alcohol to help remove it if you don't have anything made for electronics to use.
Also look inside the radio on the other side of the board if you can. You may see some water damage there as well. since it does turn on and play, cleaning it may fix your problem. But once it gets water damaged, the clock starts ticking on how long it will still play. Once the copper circuit traces have been exposed to the elements they continue to corrode over time.
If it is a power loss issue that has nothing to do with water damage, the first culprit is always the output ic. you would need to have it replaced. I don't know what IC this unit has, but most can be purchased and the number is usually on the IC.
The power IC is part of the amplification circuitry inside the head unit.
I would suggest 3 options:
1. Attempt to fix it yourself (don't do this unless you're good at soldering/desoldering, dissasembling and reassembling things, and can recognize what the IC would look like).
2. Remove the head unit and send it out for service/replace it with another.
3. If the preamp outputs still work and you have an external amplifier - you could use that. This isn't the slickest way to have a sound system operate but it won't cost you anything.
You need to keep the system rewiried or at least checked out by a professional. It sound to me like the amplifier in the back of the car is staying on this would explain the battery problems and the hum. Sometimes when wiring in systems the amplifier will use the factory speakers in the car and will amplify the sound and you create a feedback loop. ( like putting a microphone in front of a speaker) If the amplifier is not on and the power cables are unhooked and you are getting this hum through just the radio. I would suspect a faulty radio. But I am guessing from what you described you have a miss wired stereo system.
most ram trucks came with a infinity system. the amps are in the front doors, mounted to the 6x9 speakers. and they power the tweeters in the columms, and also rear speakers if you have them. I had to replace the entire system.
HHHMMM lets see kinow what could cause that??? Oh I know have you checked the B+ connections going to the stanby power as well as your always on wires?? Could also be a defective speaker or a wire touching in the car becaiuse as the volume rises the more voltage going to the speakers so the more of an overload on the out-put IC. The output IC could also bee defective. My money would be on a bad output ic or a bad speaker or wireing.