My stereo powers on and off frequently. Initially thought some Butt connectors were bad to the power. Replaced all connections going to 16 pin plug. Still shorting. The local shop tells me it is the female receptacle on the stereo chasis that is probably causing the short. Claims they see it all of the time on this model.
How difficult is it to re-solder the chasis plug connectors? Any suggestions on how I go about doing it?
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Re: Short on Chasis
Open unit to point of seeing the connector in question. turn pcb over to reveal the pins soldered to board. Simply using a hot solder iron and flux-core solder (and you properly grounded using wrist strap), proceed to re-solder each pin's solder joint. Additionally, to prevent this same broken solder joint problem again, use strong epoxy and apply to gaps between connector and pcb to prevent connector from "rocking" back and forth during cable installation.
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The easiest check is unhook the remote turn on wire from the amp and use a small jump wire to bridge the 12dvc input of the amp and the remote turn on connector of the amp. If the amp powers on there is an issue with the remote turn on connection either a bad wire or bad output. If the amp doesn't turn on there is an issue in the amp wiring or the amp itself.
Connect each wire yourself if your were unable to obtain a wiring harness to install your car stereo.
Connect the positive wire from each speaker to the positive connector on the back of the stereo first. Then connect the negative wire from each speaker to the negative connector on the back of the stereo. If there is only one wire coming from the speakers, the speakers are grounded at the chassis. In this case you will need to install new speaker wiring.
Connect the ground (-/black) wire of the stereo to a screw or bolt near where the radio is mounted in the dash. Make sure the wire is attached to metal, not plastic or fiberglass.
Connect the 12 constant and ignition power wires (both +/red) to the new stereo. Refer to your stereo's installation manual to make sure these go to the correct places.
You need a dashkit, wireharness and antenna adaptor. It all is vehcial specfic so you need to look in up for the make model and year. Use schoche or metra online to give you the part numbers of the kits some cars will not require the dashkit or the antenna adaptor.
I would check both of the power wires for the unit. There is a yellow one and a red one. The yellow one always has power regardless of the position of the ignition switch. The red one only gets power when the ignition switch is in the on position. Also does this only happen when the vehicle is in motion or does it happen just sitting and listening to the stereo? It also could possibly be the ground wire not getting a good connection. Make sure the ground wire is tightly connected to something that is metal. Good luck.
Have you checked all of the connections on the speakers, stereo, etc. Being a marine CD player, the wires and connectors are exposed to more elements than a car CD unit. Check for corrosion and make sure that all the speakers are hooked up to the correct "+" and "-" terminals. Not sure if this will help, but thought I'd try. It does sound like a speaker connection problem.
I have a 94 Ranger XLT extended cab. Here are the power/ ground connector pinouts and wire colors as shown in the factory service manual: Pin 1 LG/Y Radio Memory Power (B+) Pin 2 BK Ground Pin 3 Y/BK Power (Hot in RUN or ACCY) Pin 4 LB/R Illumination (dims with dash lights) Pin 5 O/BK Illumination (does not dim) Pin 6 BK/LG Ground
From the diagrams, looks like either ground will work.