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The machine is open, now how do I get to the motor to replace it?

Maytag MDE4658AYW. I've got the dryer open, the top is up and the front is off. But how do I get to the motor to replace it? It's completely hidden, and I can't take the drum out because the belt is around the drum.

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  • johnjill Jan 30, 2009

    Thanks for the reply.
    The bad motor was diagnosed by a repairman. He advised us not to repair it because of the cost; said we should just buy an inexpensive dryer instead. But then Whirlpool sent us a free motor, so I thought I'd see if I could replace it.
    The door switch is okay.
    I haven't taken the motor out yet, but I have taken the drum out so I have access to the motor. I've been comparing the two motors using an ohmmeter, and I can't see any difference between them. Can you tell me a different way to test the motor?

  • johnjill Jan 30, 2009

    Here's the original problem:
    When we turned it on, it just hummed, drum didn't turn. If we held the door switch down and turned the drum by hand, it tried to turn, but it just couldn't do it.

  • johnjill Jan 31, 2009

    I'm not really sure I understand about the solenoid, but I'm pretty sure this motor's not like that. The part number of the motor is 2200376, and there are pictures of it on several web sites, like

  • johnjill Feb 02, 2009

    No, I didn't mean that the drum wouldn't turn by hand; it would. I mean that if we turned it by hand while it was humming, the motor seemed to be trying to turn it, (It would kind of turn, just a little) but couldn't quite start up. But the drum definitely will turn by hand and the motor also will spin by hand, even more freely than the new one.
    I'm leaving town for a few days. When I come back I'll replace the motor unless I hear differently from you.

  • johnjill Feb 14, 2009

    Sorry, life had other ideas about what I should be doing with my time. : ) I'll definitely let you know when I've changed the motor out. Thanks.

  • johnjill Feb 18, 2009

    Well, the motor's in and it works! I've done lots of playing with it and did a load of laundry, and everything seems to be great.
    I have to say, doing the repair was a LOT easier than finding out how to do it. I'm really surprised at how easy it was. I spent MUCH more time looking for info than actually working on the machine. For instance, I looked and looked and never did find the belt routing for that particular dryer. So I just looked at enough of them until I got the general idea and then winged it from there.
    A couple questions though:
    1) When it died, it went from working fine to dead! No slowing down, no sign of any kind of trouble, just dead all of a sudden. Is that common?
    2) When I put the new motor in, the clip that was closest to the blower (the clip that holds the motor down) was pretty hard to get on. I had to use a giant vise-grip to squeeze it while I used a screwdriver to press the end down. But the other clip was easy; I just pressed it on with my fingers. Does that seem strange? It seemed secure and I couldn't get it back off again.

    And a tip for anybody else who has to do this: Before you put the drum on, put a little block of wood under the belt tensioner. It makes it a lot easier to get the belt on, and the block comes off when you get the belt all the way on.
    Thanks a lot for the help.

  • johnjill Feb 27, 2009

    We never use fabric softener but I tried it anyway; the water dropped straight through, no pooling whatsoever. Thanks for the tip.

    Regarding your statement, " If The dryer is stopped and started alot during a extended use period you can toast the circuitry," is it better to stop the dryer by turning the knob to OFF rather than opening the door, or does that matter? Because I know for a fact that it was stopped by opening the door right before it refused to start again.

    Thanks again.



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  • 29 Answers

You must remove the drum. Reach underneth the drum and locate the tentioner, then create some slack by pushing on the tensioner. Remove the belt from the tentioner and then the barrel. If you havent yet remove one end of the dryer where the barrel rides on the carpet sleave ring you will have to do that to get the barrel out. WATCH YOUR FINGERS. But before you dive off into this how are you sure that the motor is the issue? Dont work to get to the motor unless you have check all other components to ensure that the motor is realy the issue. A simple bad door switch will keep to motor from running, thats just onething of many that will keep it from running. Not trying to talk down to you I just dont know your level of knowledge. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 30, 2009

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  • DRRXR Jan 31, 2009

    Normally I test motors under load with a megger. However check to see if the new motor has a selonoid belt drive engagement. Power is supplied to the selonoid to pull the belt drive shaft into the core of the rotation. If this is the sort of motor you have then the humming was the old motor operating and the selonoid was not pulling the drive shaft into the motor. Normally the selonoid can be damaged when there are repeat attemps to restart the dryer. Like a tennis shoe jamming the drum and opening the door. Sorry but not having a visual has me fishing for the answer. However I know Whirlpool is very simular to Mattag. Heck Whirlpool owns Maytag. Look for the selonoid it has some spring loaded shoes that allow it to enage into the motor. Then let me know. DRRXR :?)

  • DRRXR Feb 02, 2009

    You ARE

  • DRRXR Feb 02, 2009

    You are correct this is not a drive selonoid enged motor. Earlier you mentioned that you could not rotate the dryer, this indicates that the motor bearings are bad, rotate the new and old motor and compare. The old motor "humming" was indiating that it was electrically active, so ohming it out will not show any issues. The only way to tell if there is a issue is to test it under laod and see the amp draw. However with the new motor in hand I would install it and then see if you can rotate the barrel by hand. If you can not, check for sleave issues at the carpet rings. Let me know how it goes.

  • DRRXR Feb 02, 2009

    Okay, I would change it out, but you may want to change the belt as well in case it stretched out or cracked. You could leave the old motor in place with the belt off and then jumper the door switch and then energize the unit check the motor to see if its rotating. This will not provide that much info though. With the old motor freely rotating indicates no bearing issues. The old motor windings most likely fatigued and can not pass enough current. Changing it our should save you some cash electricity. Check the clearances on the drum sleeves for metal to metal rubs or other indications of abnormal wear. Make sure that your belt tensioner is holding good tension. Best o luck on your trip :?) DRRXR

  • DRRXR Feb 14, 2009

    Whats the story?

  • DRRXR Feb 14, 2009

    Got your message. Here is one of my save you $$$ tips. Best o Luck

    :?) DRRXR

    To reduce the suction draft and drying time your drier and save some cash, remove the lint catcher and take it to the sink. Run water into it, if there is excessive pooling of the water (water not running straight through) then fabric softener is fouling the lint screen. Use a small brush and dish detergent to clean it and then shake off all the water and dry the screen. Remember this tip on future driers and you will make the dryer blower motor last much longer

  • DRRXR Feb 27, 2009

    I have been away for a while. Got your message. Glade to here about your success. :?)

    Your questions:

    1) When it died, it went from working fine to dead! No slowing down, no sign of any kind of trouble, just dead all of a sudden. Is that common?

    That can happen if the windings are worn and the motor is at a elevated load and hot. Then the drier is stop by something like a bearing failure or a tennis shoe. If The dryer is stopped and started alot during a extended use period you can toast the circuitry.

    2) When I put the new motor in, the clip that was closest to the blower (the clip that holds the motor down) was pretty hard to get on. I had to use a giant vise-grip to squeeze it while I used a screwdriver to press the end down. But the other clip was easy; I just pressed it on with my fingers. Does that seem strange? It seemed secure and I couldn't get it back off again.

    Not strange thats how alot of them are. If you would have started on the other clip it would have been hard and the other easy. The engineering of this is not that great. After running it awhile the force will equalize across the two clips.

    Did you try the lent catcher tip?

    Later :?) DRXRX



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