Got a new amp and wired everything 2 my best abilities...2 dif amps..1 for sub and other 4 mids..each amp ground seperatley..bout 3 feet apart.new amp is 4 the mids.wen i 1st wired the new amp,i got a veeery quiet sound from the mids...turned vol all way up and could barely hear anything..what it took 4 me 2 get sound was by pulling the rca's out of both the amp and the head unit halfway..so only the center part/prong was plugged in..when the outer part of the rca,i guess its ground?,touches the amp or head unit i lose all sound.so i pulled them out just enuf 2 get sound and taped them in place...wierd setup but that wat it took....both the mids and sub are rca from the head unit.i wanna no why this is wat it takes 4 them 2 work...on my last amp 4 the mids,i had the rcas all the way in and it worked fine.theres a lot more details i can put about my setup but im just wondering what normally is the cause 4 rca's workin wen not all the way in.i can post more if needed.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I would be more worried about the amp than the speakers, those subs should handle the watts with no problem. The problem will be in the amps ability to remain working with a bridged 2 ohm load. It may not even stay on without going into protect mode with a 2 ohm load. If it does stay on then it may get really hot and shut off from the heat off of the Mosfett Transistors, or it could burn the Mosfetts from driving them too hard. Basically it's your choice, run your amp hard and gain more volume or run it with slightly less sound and have a cleaner sounding more stable amp that will stay on and have less chance of being damaged. If it's not loud enough the best thing to do is buy a different amp that better suits your needs and fits the application. In your case a 2 ohm stable Mono amp is going to be your best bet or a 4 channel amp bridged into 2 channels and run with 4 ohms on each channel. Or another exact matching amp like your 2 channel amp bridge them both and have each powering 1 of your 4 ohm subs. I used two VR mono amps to power my two 12" 4 ohm subs for a few years
check the rca cables on the back to see if you might have the sub woofer cable in wrong rca spot
this is how it should be wired from your radio front output a set of rca cables go to the radio input of the eq. if you have sub out on radio it will not be used ... eq takes place of it ... turn off subout on radio ... to use eq or preamp you must have at 2 amps 1 for mids and tweets and 1 for subs to work eq right
then from the eq you have another set of rca cables comming from the front output to your mids and tweet amp and then if you dont have a second amp u wont need rear output move over to the suboutput and run a set of rca cables from eq's sub output to sub amp this is how the audio cable section should be connected if you still dont get it to work proper then then it has a electronic issue and need to warranted out if still in warranty or buy new one .... here is a link to the install manual with a wire diagram for repair shop .....http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2006/manual%20and%20catalog/Processors/PWM-20.pdf
Check the RCA cables, this is generally a sign of the RCA cables grounding in the insulation. This would be if you are getting a sound like a heart beat from your subs.
This is a 160 watt amp though.
Could also be a weak ground. Make sure you use a solid ground like the seat belt bolt or brace behind the back seat. A solid ground is best if you remove any paint before bolting the ground down as well.
Also might be the amp is clipping. Try reducing your gains and double check to make sure you are using the proper wiring diagram. This is a 2 ohm stable amp, any lower ohm load will cause problems with the amp.
:) the rca jacks have to be connected to an amplifier,, their signal is too lay to even light a bulb.. you have to connect it to a car amplifier and then from the amplifier to the speakers..
Just so you'd know,, once your deck plays and you hear music on your speakers through your normal speaker wires,, RCA jacks work..
Ok you have 4 jacks,, 2 subs and 2 front.. These should connect to a preamp,, which takes 4 inputs and allows you to equalize or adjust how the music should sound,, now from the pre-amp,, it runs to an amplifier,, thats powers the subs and another that powers the speakers.. Some amps have 4 inputs so you can use one amp for your subs mids and heights..
for example a basic music system is
1 cd player 1 pre amp 1 amplifier (4 inputs, 4 channel out)
you bridge 1+2 and connect this to 1 12" double coil sub woofer
the next 2 connect to 2 mid speakers example "rockford or ev 5 / 8 " and 2 tweeters for heights..
Thats a kicking tricked out basic car audio system,,,
I believe what your trying to do is to run 2 12" subs and some other satillite speakers? We used to do that all the time.. That is called running the amp in "mixed mono" that's where the mids & tweets are run in stereo while the subs are bridged mono. This configuration is what made Rockford Fosgate "The Bomb" back in the day. To do what you want your subs have got to be 8 ohms, NOT 4, Dual Voice Coil 4 ohms would be OK. Before i tell you how it can be done let me tell you what will happen... For one thing you will be "making" your own cross overs for the subs and mids and tweets. Forget about using the cross overs on the amp. 2ndly you will lose about 1/3 to 1/2 of the amps power because the crossovers are so inefficient, so don't even think your going to get anywhere near 1200 watts from the amp. More like 300, and that's on a good day. But if you still want to do it you go to your Radio Shack and get 1ea 6.0 mHy (milhenry) coil and two 47 mfd (microfared) capacitors, or something close to that value. So you would wire your mids & tweets normal in stereo and on the + line to each mid wire in the 47 mfd capacitor. That is your h/p crossover which will crossover your mids @ appx 130hz. Now on your subs. You want to wire them in parellel (both +s twisted together and both -s twisted together so it looks like there is just one woofer with a + and a -) Than from the L+ of the amp run a wire to the coil and from the coil to the + of the woofers, than using the R- of the amp to the -s of the woofers. Do not use any of the amps built in crossovers leave it on full. Good luck. Mark @ Sounds Good to Me Tempe, AZ
first off nice choice on the amp check ur power and ground connections make sure the main battery to bady ground is good if questionable add a new one cant hurt to have extra grounds from the batt to the body make sure the amp ground is as short as u can make it make sure its grounded to bare metal if any of these dont work u may have a prob inside ur amp
positive (1 guage) from main battery to second battery positive terminal. hook all amps positive to second battery and hook 2nd battery ground to frame of car (where amp is now grounded) if you have a 2nd battery a cap is a waste of money. make sure all grounds (battery and amps) are together on same ground point of car, do not ground amps to battery - ground everything to 1 spot on the frame or body of the car ! - yes you can pigtail remote leads.