Got a new amp and wired everything 2 my best abilities...2 dif amps..1 for sub and other 4 mids..each amp ground seperatley..bout 3 feet apart.new amp is 4 the mids.wen i 1st wired the new amp,i got a veeery quiet sound from the mids...turned vol all way up and could barely hear anything..what it took 4 me 2 get sound was by pulling the rca's out of both the amp and the head unit halfway..so only the center part/prong was plugged in..when the outer part of the rca,i guess its ground?,touches the amp or head unit i lose all sound.so i pulled them out just enuf 2 get sound and taped them in place...wierd setup but that wat it took....both the mids and sub are rca from the head unit.i wanna no why this is wat it takes 4 them 2 work...on my last amp 4 the mids,i had the rcas all the way in and it worked fine.theres a lot more details i can put about my setup but im just wondering what normally is the cause 4 rca's workin wen not all the way in.i can post more if needed.
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I would be more worried about the amp than the speakers, those subs should handle the watts with no problem. The problem will be in the amps ability to remain working with a bridged 2 ohm load. It may not even stay on without going into protect mode with a 2 ohm load. If it does stay on then it may get really hot and shut off from the heat off of the Mosfett Transistors, or it could burn the Mosfetts from driving them too hard. Basically it's your choice, run your amp hard and gain more volume or run it with slightly less sound and have a cleaner sounding more stable amp that will stay on and have less chance of being damaged. If it's not loud enough the best thing to do is buy a different amp that better suits your needs and fits the application. In your case a 2 ohm stable Mono amp is going to be your best bet or a 4 channel amp bridged into 2 channels and run with 4 ohms on each channel. Or another exact matching amp like your 2 channel amp bridge them both and have each powering 1 of your 4 ohm subs. I used two VR mono amps to power my two 12" 4 ohm subs for a few years
Check the RCA cables, this is generally a sign of the RCA cables grounding in the insulation. This would be if you are getting a sound like a heart beat from your subs.
This is a 160 watt amp though.
Could also be a weak ground. Make sure you use a solid ground like the seat belt bolt or brace behind the back seat. A solid ground is best if you remove any paint before bolting the ground down as well.
Also might be the amp is clipping. Try reducing your gains and double check to make sure you are using the proper wiring diagram. This is a 2 ohm stable amp, any lower ohm load will cause problems with the amp.
I believe what your trying to do is to run 2 12" subs and some other satillite speakers? We used to do that all the time.. That is called running the amp in "mixed mono" that's where the mids & tweets are run in stereo while the subs are bridged mono. This configuration is what made Rockford Fosgate "The Bomb" back in the day. To do what you want your subs have got to be 8 ohms, NOT 4, Dual Voice Coil 4 ohms would be OK. Before i tell you how it can be done let me tell you what will happen... For one thing you will be "making" your own cross overs for the subs and mids and tweets. Forget about using the cross overs on the amp. 2ndly you will lose about 1/3 to 1/2 of the amps power because the crossovers are so inefficient, so don't even think your going to get anywhere near 1200 watts from the amp. More like 300, and that's on a good day. But if you still want to do it you go to your Radio Shack and get 1ea 6.0 mHy (milhenry) coil and two 47 mfd (microfared) capacitors, or something close to that value. So you would wire your mids & tweets normal in stereo and on the + line to each mid wire in the 47 mfd capacitor. That is your h/p crossover which will crossover your mids @ appx 130hz. Now on your subs. You want to wire them in parellel (both +s twisted together and both -s twisted together so it looks like there is just one woofer with a + and a -) Than from the L+ of the amp run a wire to the coil and from the coil to the + of the woofers, than using the R- of the amp to the -s of the woofers. Do not use any of the amps built in crossovers leave it on full. Good luck. Mark @ Sounds Good to Me Tempe, AZ
Hello, It sounds like you may have a problem with one of your subs. If this problem was not happening before that's what I would suspect. You need to check the ohms of both subs seperately, make sure you don't have a half blown sub. Second you need to test the voltage going into the amp while playing at a decent volume to see if there is a major drop in voltage. Also, check your ground. You'd be surprised at the many people who bring there cars to my shop with similar problems and turns out the ground was bad or loose. I would doubt there is something wrong internaly with your amp. The problem lies in the wiring or speakers. As you said it only started doing this after 3 or 4 months after it was installed. It's cutting off at high volumes cause it can't draw the power it needs at the higher volume, so make sure you check all your wiring good. Let me know what you find, I would like to be able to help you more if for some reason you can't figure it out. I own a shop and also do amplifire repair. Hope this helps.
You need 1 thick ground cable ( usually brown)
you need 1 thick power cable ( same thickness and wire as ground usually red )
you should have 1 rem wire ( thin blue )
RCAs, 2 for sub, extra 2 for 2 speakers.
The rest I have no idea what they are.
You need speaker cables to sub or amp.
Some products use different colouring. Maybe the 9 pin connector is for head deck to speakers.
first off nice choice on the amp check ur power and ground connections make sure the main battery to bady ground is good if questionable add a new one cant hurt to have extra grounds from the batt to the body make sure the amp ground is as short as u can make it make sure its grounded to bare metal if any of these dont work u may have a prob inside ur amp
Low output could be the head unit, the speakers of the amp itself. Start by isolating the problem.
1) Test the sub(s) on a known good output.
2) Input a known good signal. A portable with RCA preamp outs will work OK.
After you have eliminated the other components, troubleshoot the amp itself:
1) Check the onboard fuses. The M605 has 2 each 30A fuses just to the left of the power and ground terminals.
2) If it was just installed, then my first suspicion would be a problem in wiring. If one tiny little strand of your speaker wires comes into contact with another wire or ground point, it could present just enough of a signal path to ground out most of your power, and perhaps still allow the amp to seemingly operate normally (at least for awhile). Check power and ground too.
3) Make sure your head unit RCA's are plugged into the inputs and not the outputs.
4) Check the low-pass and subsonic filter settings. If low pass is turned all the way down, the amplifier would ONLY send frequencies below 30Hz to the speakers. Subsonic turned on and the low pass all the way down would effectively result in no sound.
5) Remove the top cover to access the mode controls and display. Check the input level.
If everything checks out, the amp probably has a defective component and needs factory/service center repair.
positive (1 guage) from main battery to second battery positive terminal. hook all amps positive to second battery and hook 2nd battery ground to frame of car (where amp is now grounded) if you have a 2nd battery a cap is a waste of money. make sure all grounds (battery and amps) are together on same ground point of car, do not ground amps to battery - ground everything to 1 spot on the frame or body of the car ! - yes you can pigtail remote leads.