I recently purchased a new faucet which requires four holes in the sink (one for the hot water connection, one for the main faucet one for the cold water connection and one for the sprayer). Although my current sink configuration only has four holes and one of them is currently occupied with the dishwasher air gap. Are there any modifications I can make to relocate the dishwasher air gap without drilling an additional hole? Or is my best bet to purchase a different faucet which requires 3 holes?
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Re: Kitchen Faucet Replacement
Option 1 ; Cap off the sprayer.
Option 2 ; Relocate the air gap as high as possible under the sink but then you have no drain under it in case it backflows (it is really a vacuum breaker , one way check valve)
Option 3: Take back the faucet and get one of those that the spout is also the sprayer.
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Does any water come out of the faucet when turned to hot? If not, you may have disconnected the fautet line from the valve and attached the dishwasher line. You can check this by looking under the sink and making sure all lines are connected to valves.
If everything is connected, you may have dislodged some mineral buildup and it is blocking your hot water line to the faucet. You'll have to remove the line and clean it out.
Most new kitchen faucets feature single-handle control levers and washerless designs that rarely require maintenance. Additional features include brushed metallic finishes, detachable spray nozzles, or even push-button controls.Connect the faucet to hot and cold water lines with easy-to-install flexible supply tubes made-from vinyl or braided steel. If your faucet has a separate sprayer, install the sprayer first. Pull the sprayer hose through the sink opening and attach to the faucet body before installing the faucet.
Where local codes allow, use plastic tubes for drain hookups. A wide selection of extensions and angle fittings lets you easily plumb any sink configuration. Manufacturers offer kits that contain all the fittings needed for attaching a food disposer or dishwasher to the sink drain system.
he steps to replace a faucet are easy and nearly always the same. Here's how it works:
Shut off the water supply to the faucet. Usually, there
are shut off cocks near the faucet but if not, you may have to shut the
water off near your main line.
Remove the water feed
lines from the faucet. You may wish to tag the hot water line "hot
left" to take the guess work out of reconnecting.
the faucet hold down washers or spin nuts. These washers are under the
counter top. They spin onto two studs that you will see by looking
behind the sink from below the faucet. The stud and washer
configurations come in different styles and types but they all do the
same work of holding the faucet in place. Your job is to get them
loosened up so you can remove the old faucet. The distance between
those studs is your "center distance" as mentioned earlier.
Once you have the faucet loose, it will be much easier to remove a sprayer line if there is one attached.
Clean the area once the faucet is removed.
Put the new, plastic faucet base plate in position.
there is a sprayer, replace the base for it (included in the kit) and
feed the new line down through the sprayer base and back up through the
center hole where the faucet will mount. Attach that line to the new
Insert and firmly yet gently tighten the mounting studs into the bottom of the faucet base if they're not already.
Insert the faucet into the appropriate location on your sink and install the faucet hold down washers or spin nuts.
your water lines. Begin by lightly cleaning all threads with a soft
cloth and then apply Teflon plumber's tape to the male threads of your
connections Be careful not to cross thread anything when putting the
Reestablish water pressure and check for leaks. It always helps to have a spotter / helper for this step.
A new kitchen faucet always gives me a special DIY feeling because a
new faucet looks good, operates easier and can even save a little water
by providing quick, positive shut off. Take your time and survey the
entire job before you start. With a little time and patience, you too
can have a bright new faucet in your home kitchen.
If you have a 3" hole I would definately say that is a special order faucet, But if 3" is a typo you can get what are called "cockhole covers" to cover the hole you're not using. What i usually do is, find a faucet that will use the 3 holes and install a soap dispenser, filtered water spigot, or a instant hot water spigot to fill the fourth hole.
If 3" is not a typo you might try to contact a granite countertop co. or call Jacuzzi and install a larger plate that will cover large holes and have new (smaller) holes drilled for a standard faucet
Many new faucets require some assembly before mounting to the sink; if that is the case, follow the manufacturer's directions. With most pullout sprayer faucets, the sprayer needs to be threaded through the faucet body first. Insert the rubber gasket between the base plate of the faucet and the sink top to create a watertight seal. If no gasket is provided, pack the cavity of the faucet with plumber's putty, then insert the faucet body through the holes in the sink top. Thread the mounting nuts provided onto the faucet shafts, then center the threaded shafts in the sink's holes and tighten the nuts firmly. Many manufacturers include a special long socket specifically to aid in tightening the mounting nuts. A hole in the socket accepts the shank of a screwdriver, guiding it as you tighten the nuts. If you're mounting the faucet on an installed sink, use this method. If you're installing a pullout sprayer faucet--or a faucet with a separate sprayer--now is the time to connect the sprayer to the faucet body. Check the manufacturer's directions to see if using pipe-wrap tape for this connection is recommended. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection. Most pullout sprayer faucets and faucets with separate sprayers come with a counterweight that attaches to the sprayer hose. This weight helps retract the hose back in to the sink cabinet after you've used the sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's directions on where to secure the weight, and take care not to crimp the hose as you attach the weight. Hook up the faucet's hot and cold supply lines to the water supply shutoff valves under the sink. If necessary, gently bend the copper tubes coming out of the faucet for better access and connect flexible supply tubes to them. Simply wrap a couple of turns of pipe-wrap tape around the threaded nipples on the valves and connect the tubes. Tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench.