I recently purchased a new faucet which requires four holes in the sink (one for the hot water connection, one for the main faucet one for the cold water connection and one for the sprayer). Although my current sink configuration only has four holes and one of them is currently occupied with the dishwasher air gap. Are there any modifications I can make to relocate the dishwasher air gap without drilling an additional hole? Or is my best bet to purchase a different faucet which requires 3 holes?
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Re: Kitchen Faucet Replacement
Option 1 ; Cap off the sprayer.
Option 2 ; Relocate the air gap as high as possible under the sink but then you have no drain under it in case it backflows (it is really a vacuum breaker , one way check valve)
Option 3: Take back the faucet and get one of those that the spout is also the sprayer.
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This might sound foolish but I have seen it many times. Go under the sink and make sure you hot water bib is turned on to full position. There is very little that will cause restriction in one side verses the other on a new fixture.
A picture, model, or brand of the type of faucet you have will be helpful as there are only three types of faucets. One hole, two hole, and three hole faucets. The one hole ones have two types: a single hot or cold, or a mixer valve to combine hot and cold into a single faucet. Each have a surface mount or wall mount version.
They all follow the same similar installation method. Turn off water supply. Unscrew supply lines from supply to underside of the faucet. a Plumber's wrench is needed or a spanning crescent wrench to remove the supply lines.
-Unscrew whole assemble from the sink.
-insert new one into the same hole as old one.
-from underneath, install the new faucet using the supplied hardware.
-Use plumbers tape (Teflon tape). It's often a white or pink silicon tape around the threads prior to screwing the supply lines back in. Re-connect the supply line.
-Open hot water faucet to maximum. Slowly turn on the water supply. Watch for leaks and drips. If any close the water supply and undo the supply leads and apply more Teflon tape.
- to apply tape. Start at the end and pull tightly, wind the tape into the threads in the direction of the turn. Do not wind in opposite direction.
-Try to turn on water again, turn slowly until it is at maximum, watch for leaks and drips.
-now slowly close the faucet and continue watching for leaks and drops.
If the faucet is fully closed and there is no leaks, you've done a good job... basic plumbing 101.
Now if your pipes are solder types and not screwed in supply line, and you're not confident with a torch or have little experience, ask for help from a friend who has some torch knowledge or hire a plumber. It is simple to do but requires a lot more steps than simply screwing in and unscrewing supply lines.
Close the hot and cold water valves in the cabinet beneath the sink to shut the water supply off to the bath faucet.
Remove the bath faucet's handle to access the valve cartridge. The faucet handle is removed by first detaching the handle's insert cap using the tip of a screwdriver or utility knife to expose the handle screw. Remove the handle screw with a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the handle off the valve cartridge stem.
Loosen and remove the cartridge valve nut with an adjustable wrench. Some faucet models retain the valve cartridge with a snap ring and are removed with snap ring pliers.
Pull the old valve cartridge out of the bath faucet base, using pliers.
Insert the new replacement valve cartridge into the faucet housing and replace the nut or snap ring removed in Step 3, using an adjustable wrench or snap ring pliers.
Reinstall the faucet's handle onto the valve cartridge post, then secure the handle's screw, using a screwdriver.
Replace the insert cap into the handle to cover the handle's screw hole.
Turn on the hot and cold water valves beneath the sink to restore the water supply.
If this is a new faucet in an old location, you may have a service stop under the sink that the seat washer crumbled on. This happpens sometimes because the seats get brittle in the water then you use them for the first time in years. Check the supply hose first for kinks then if it looks okay, you should check for debris by removing the control handle and removing the cartridge. Do you see any black particles in the cartridge? Carefully open the cold service stop under the sink while using your hand to direct the water into the sink. Is the flow poor or good? If good, the dirt is in the cartridge. If poor, you need to turn the water off and look into the opening the cartridge sits in. Sometimes the opening to the cartridge intake may not be completely drilled. Do the hot and cold openings look the same? IF they both look good, then the obstruction is in the cold hose or in the service stop, though it is more common that it is in the hose. You can remove the hose and try cleating it, but never by inserting anything in it. If it requires that, it is time for a new hose. In that case you should contact hansgrohe for the parts. 800-334-0455 or www.hansgrohe-usa.com for support in USA.
buught sink taps same problem do they have flexy conectors with them. my problem was as they are american hot @ cold water suply are maines fed so hole in bottom of taps [or in flexy pipes are too small
sounds like you have a recirculation line which means you should have instant hot water,the old school way was a pipe ran back to water heater from end of hot supply.they now have units that go under sink have not used one yet but these units can do what you are describing.find your hot water source and see if you have recirc line
Many new faucets require some assembly before mounting to the sink; if that is the case, follow the manufacturer's directions. With most pullout sprayer faucets, the sprayer needs to be threaded through the faucet body first. Insert the rubber gasket between the base plate of the faucet and the sink top to create a watertight seal. If no gasket is provided, pack the cavity of the faucet with plumber's putty, then insert the faucet body through the holes in the sink top. Thread the mounting nuts provided onto the faucet shafts, then center the threaded shafts in the sink's holes and tighten the nuts firmly. Many manufacturers include a special long socket specifically to aid in tightening the mounting nuts. A hole in the socket accepts the shank of a screwdriver, guiding it as you tighten the nuts. If you're mounting the faucet on an installed sink, use this method. If you're installing a pullout sprayer faucet--or a faucet with a separate sprayer--now is the time to connect the sprayer to the faucet body. Check the manufacturer's directions to see if using pipe-wrap tape for this connection is recommended. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the connection. Most pullout sprayer faucets and faucets with separate sprayers come with a counterweight that attaches to the sprayer hose. This weight helps retract the hose back in to the sink cabinet after you've used the sprayer. Follow the manufacturer's directions on where to secure the weight, and take care not to crimp the hose as you attach the weight. Hook up the faucet's hot and cold supply lines to the water supply shutoff valves under the sink. If necessary, gently bend the copper tubes coming out of the faucet for better access and connect flexible supply tubes to them. Simply wrap a couple of turns of pipe-wrap tape around the threaded nipples on the valves and connect the tubes. Tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench.