Re: Suddenly I get circles of light on peoples glasses
The circle of light is almost certainly a reflection from either the flash, a lamp, the sun, or some other source of light since it only occurs with glasses. Try to eliminate possible sources for the reflected light. If you find that the flash is causing the problem, then the camera should be set to eliminate the flash going off. You can do that by selecting "no flash" if there is enough natural light. You many need to use the largest aperture and a tripod because low light will require long exposures, and any shaking will blur the photo.
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The correction in the sentence has to do with a plural subject. If the subject is Plural,then whatever it's doing is going to be singular. If the subject is singular and whatever it's doing is going to be plural. So, it should read, the jellies live, not lives. The subject is obviously the jellies. The predicate is the part in the sentence that modifies the subject. This could include telling us what the subject is doing, and in this case, it would be living in the shallower part of the sea.
the flashing means that the exposure is not correct for that area. if that area was the subject, then you might want to adjust the settings to reduce sensitivity in order to view that area correctly. if you spot meter the 'true subject' in the frame, there will often be areas outside that subject that are either brighter or more dimly lit. but exposure will be right for the subject. it can't all be correctly exposed if there is much variation in lighting. fill flashes will provide more light to the subject, thus resulting in a reduction in sensitivity of the resulting settings. (shorter exposure time or smaller aperture or a combination of both) and that will let the brighter areas move closer to 'not washing out' or being over exposed as some people refer to it. in either approach, its not a defect or problem unless it bothers you. the flashing just lets you know that you can modify settings if it matters that the photograph has high levels of contrast beyond what you may want. sometimes the subject is not in the center, and thus not metered for. but the framing is set to include something off to the side. you can reset exposure by adjusting exposure compensation so that while you are reading a darker area than that of the subject, you don't want the camera to use that area for light settings necessarily. recap: exposure control via exposure compensation or fill flash mark
AF single or AF continuous can be selected. In AF single mode, focus is calculated and set when the shutter-release button is pressed partway down. This mode is mainly useful for a stationary subject. In AF continuous mode, camera continues to focus on a moving subject even when the shutter-release button is pressed partway down. It is convenient to capture the moving subject. Full Time AF that continues focusing without pressing the shutter-release button can be used in both AF modes.
AF single or AF continuous can be selected. In AF single mode, focus is calculated and set when the shutter-release button is pressed partway down. This mode is mainly useful for a stationary subject. In AF continuous mode, camera continues to focus on a moving subject even when the shutter-release button is pressed partway down. It is convenient to capture the moving subject. When setting spot focus point in AF continuous mode, subject tracking can be used.
(Subject tracking can be turned on/off by the recording menu. )
When selecting the Spot Focus Point, Full Time AF can be used*.
* Full Time AF can be turned on/off on the setup menu.
* Sensors mounted on the grip and on the eyepiece detect when the camera is held.
The camera uses a precise auto focus mechanism, but under the conditions and with the subjects described below the auto focus function may not work well.
Subjects moving at high speed
Very shiny subjects such as a mirror or car body
Extremely low contrast subjects (such as subjects dressed in the same color as the background, etc.)
When there are objects in front of or behind the subject
(such as an animal in a cage or a person in front of a tree)
Subjects with little reflection, such as hair or fur
Subjects with no solidity, such as smoke or flames
Subjects viewed through glass
In addition, the focus is set on the center of the frame, so if the subject is not at the center (when shooting two people standing side by side, for example), the focus is adjusted on the background and the desired subject (the two people) may be out of focus. In such cases, do the following:
Point the camera so that one of the persons is at the center of the viewfinder.
Half-press the shutter button. (The focus is locked on the person.)
Holding the shutter button in the half-pressed position, reposition the camera to achieve the desired composition.
Take the photo.
If the focus cannot be adjusted, it is locked to infinity (1.5 meters when using the flash).
1. Typical problem subjects for autofocus
1) Very low-contrast subjects
2) Overlapping nearby and distant objects
3) Very bright subjects in the center
4) Subjects moving very fast
5) Subjects through glass
Focus on an object that is at the same distance as the desired subject, apply Focus Lock, and then recompose the picture. Or set the lens focus mode switch to (or), and focus manually.
(Manual focus is only possible with cameras providing this feature.)
2. Attempting to take pictures out of the camera's shooting distance:
When taking pictures out of the camera's shooting distance, the subject will be out of focus.
The shooting distance differs from each camera model. Please check the specifications of your camera in the instruction manual to determine the shooting distance.