After hour of playing the amp starts the effect popping sound
Amp stays lit up.cant see any problem except sometimes save lite comes on and it has changed to the user program.the amp sounds like it wants to change into another effect.the popping is loud and im afraid it will blow a speaker so im powering down when this happens.sometimes if i change the dial setting on my variax with the toggle switch it will make it come and go.cant be the variax because also happens with my telecaster.also had a problem awhile ago with amp loosing sound for about 20 sec and then comming back on without loosing power. line6 vetta II guitar amp
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
That unit has a digital reverb and tremolo that can not be turned OFF with your foot control, meaning this small sound card is always on. Even though that level is on "0", it is still always on. If it has a problem within it, it will put noises into your sound. I would recommend opening the amp, look for the power to the effects card and unplug it to see if it goes away. It should be a small card resembling a sound card from a computer mounted off to the side. It should have a red and a black wire plugged into it. Wiggle it and listen for a change, dirty connections on that plug could do that. Unplug it completely and listen. This would only remove the possible interference of the card, you would still have sound without effects. Regardless of the brand, those cheap effects cards are usually more trouble than they are worth. They only have a few samples of effects, not the actual effect. I hope this helps, I know it is a great sounding amp but, those effects cards are the weakness of amps today.
That is probably a momentary switch that is dirty and sticking. These onboard effects on guitar amps are usually nothing more than a computer sound card and I've found bad connections going to and from them as well. I do think that switch is dirty and sticking, though.
Make sure you are using balanced lines, especially to the power amps. ALSO make sure ALL interconnected equipment is powered from the SAME receptacle or source, even if it means running extension to where the amps are powered. Ground loops are a pain and can cause serious damage to your equipment.
I have answered some of this before, however I have reveiwed the schematic and as an electrical engineer I want you to do a couple tests.
First, plug in a set of headphones into the preamp out jack. Note that due to the impedance mismatch what you hear will not be very loud. Now change the state of the clean OD. Did you hear a faint pop?
Next plug a LOW impedance device OR even an instrument cable into the power amp "input" jack. Do this with the power off then warm amp up.
Now, change the state of the clean OD. Did you hear a faint pop?
Now for the analysis. If you did hear one in the first test and NOT in the second, the pop you are hearing is the "NATURE OF THE BEAST".
I can tell you from the design that the pop you hear is from coupling within the clean and OD relays within the unit. There is no cure for this within the unit other than find another brand...
I would recommend that you use an EXTERNAL pedal for the effects you want rather than trying to use the clean OD in this amp. I suspect it was never intended to be shifted during playing as I can guarantee it will pop when you shift while having anything other than dead silence (not even a bit of hum from your guitar). There is also statistical noise in the preamp that the laws of physics will not let us get around that may be enough to create a bit of a pop.
You could also use a volume pedal between the preamp output and the power amp in to throttle the volume to zero before shifting to OD.
In general I think you will find that what you are hearing is the nature of this beast.
1) can happen if the speaker is dying - voice coil defective or magnet needs recharging. happens sometimes with low quality speakers.
2) faulty pre-amp section can reduce overall gain resulting in lower output volume. 3) for old amps dry solders in pre-amp & power amp section can have the same effect. 4) faulty coupling and filter capacitors can severely effect frequency response too.
The manual is at:http://www.korguksupport.co.uk/upload/X50_OpGuide_E1.pdf if you don't have one. Try saving everything you want to save first if you know how to do that. Then initialize the keyboard. Follow the instructions on page 111 carefully. It sounds like you created an undesirable effect and accidently assigned the Pitch Bend Lock function to the effect. This parameter is explained on page 41 under Pitch Wheel Mod Wheel. Hope this helps.
Ah yes: complete catastrophe. Usually when everything is not working, it is a single reason and when that single reason is fixed, so is the amp.
Based on what you tell me, I am going to say you have a bad power tube. And I will even go as far to say that you buy a set of tubes and play on them as long as you can. If so, then you not only burned up the tube, but weakened the power section and may have a slooow tube frier. I always tell customers: modern tubes have an effective life of less that 1200 or so hours and that varies. Replace the tubes once per year if you gig with the amp: period. Otherwise, guys like me (doing repairs) stay busy and the tube companies get rich selling tubes to amps with weakened power sections.
It sounds like you burned a power tube and blew a fuse. First, you need a new set of power tubes and some extra fuses (go to Radio Shack and set the value you need in SLOW BLOW fuses).
Then, replace all the power tubes. Don't worry about biasing yet, we are just seeing if there is a problem. Next, replace the fuse.
Turn on the amp and play on it at various volumes and settings. If all is well, take the amp to a tech and get it rebiased. If you can afford it, pay to have the grid/plate and other resistors changed so the power section will be like new (clean slate with new tubes). Your amp will love you for it.
Almost all of the amps I have worked on for performance problems (cant keep tubes to stay alive for very long) are directly related to end user use. When you use a tube until it blows it ALWAYS TAKES SOMETHING WITH THE TUBE WHEN IT GOES (like the power section components). The compents will be weakened and the tubes will 'wear' at different rates that can even move them out of the 20% tolerence they must be within to sound good. 99% of the time a board repair with a retube after a catastrophe fixes the amp until the next time it is 'run into the ground'. Tube amps are NOT invinceble: they are weak compared to solid state and expensive to own. But we love tubes because they sound great. I have solid state to knock around on, when when it counts, I play only with tubes. I have spent hundreds on good tubes because you do get what you pay for.