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Re: compressor hard to start when cold
Sounds more like the pressure relief valve that takes the air pressure off the compressor upon shut down so when it re-starts there is no pressure until the motor gets a start this is known as a unloader valve and is usually a small brass valve that looks like a fitting and will hiss on shutdown,if it sticks the motor trys to start with the load of the air pressure on it and slips the belt due to load
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Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem
could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If
your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new
motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard
to turn then you probably need a new motor.
Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied
to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like
the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then
all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will
not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because
the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then
because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The
internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning
up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some
compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some
compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my
customer that they need a new compressor . Many
times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new
compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They
have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems.
Assuming that this model has a belt drive from the motor to the saw arbor. Remove the belt and turn the motor on--same problem? If motor is a capacitor start unit, the capacitor may have failed. Be sure to check motor rotation by hand--it should spin freely. If ok, check the turning action of the blade itself--it should spin freely and coast for a little while. If not, check the arbor bearings for failure. Hope this helps!
Turn the compressor pump pulley by hand (with belt off) and air pressure in the tank. It should be very easy to turn. If it is hard to turn, evaluate the check valve for leak. If no leak examine crank bearings for damage. Repair as needed. If easy to turn fault is with motor. Check amp draw with belt removed. When the motor comes on, it should draw about 15 amps and drop lower. The motor should start and reach full rpm in a split second. It should start with a bang and run smoothly with-out getting hot and only pull low amount of amps. If slow start and high amp draw, check capacitor/s and or start winding switch inside of motor. Sometimes the start switch will burn the contacts and give trouble. If both capacitors test within 95% of value and start switch appears to be good, look for damaged copper windings. Windings will be discolored or burned and the tie strings binding the windings will be melted. Replace as needed. Good holidays
the drum should run free if not the bearing have gone and seized they will need to be replaced. hear is a video there are others you can find the bearing kit on line using the model number https://youtu.be/WGolkFlgl3Y
First you should check the power for short circuit, second you have to check the fan motor if it is burnt or not,third check whether the compressor is burnt or not.These are the three reasons.If the powering is short circuited change the cables from the mccb.If the fan motor is burned out replace the fan motor or rewind the fan motor.If the compressor is burnt out replace the compressor, evacuate the refrigeration system and charge the refrigerant.
the smaller belt is causing the tub to spin too quickly. the shorter belt is causing the motor to overheat and causing the thermal overload protector to shut dowqn the motor. when the motor cools it starts up again. replace the belt with te correct size and that will solve your problems
Jayron, is the motor jogging? start to spin, stop, start to spin stop. If so, your motor is jogging between the high and low start windings. The motor during spin should start on the high speed windings and stay there until most of the water is drained. GE came out with a new motor, harness and run cap because of this. If you have a meter, there should be a white and white/red wire going to the motor. If you have a steady 120V and it's doing this jogging, replace the motor with the kit...Let me know if this the issue, Catriver..post back.