Electricity is flowing fine to the unit, gas is flowing fine, but the "hot surface ignitor" is not igniting. This is a frequent problem I've had over the years, and seems to get worse as time goes by. I've had it "repaired" a couple of times but technicians never would show me what they did. It seems like a system that is prone to frequent failing. Is there something I can do to fix it and then to maintain it so this no longer occurs, or is this new-fangled "hot surface ignitor" technology so sophisticated and complex that I'd be better off hiring a technician and/or replacing the faulty part? Thanks - Tom in L.A.
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Re: LARS 2 LITE HOT SURFACE IGNITOR IS NOT IGNITING
I think you could be buying you own HSI part and replace yourself. But I would suspect that the technicians are not being careful when the install the new ones, or someone is getting their hands on them. But even at that, they are problematic. I am not sure if there are different grades of HSI's either, so that may be the problem too. They are not that hard to replace. You just need to be sure that it is the as being the cause of the failure.
I would order new ones on the Net, and replace. Just be sure not to touch the HSI, PERIOD. Use only the wrapping that the HSI comes in to hold it, and only remove when all possibility of touching it has gone.
Let me know if you have any more questions. I'll be happy to reply. I somehwat got out of the business as HSI's were coming in, but I do know the right questions to ask, and how to figure out what's happening.
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You will need to replace the spark module if you don't hear any clicking, or there is no spark present when trying to ignite the gas. To test the Spark Module: When properly operating, the spark module repeatedly produces a spark at the ignitor accompanied by a sharp snapping sound.
Turn off gas and power supply to unit.
Check wiring diagram to verify all terminals and wire connections are correct and tight with no cuts in the wiring.
Prepare to measure voltage on spark module from terminal L to N.
Turn power supply back on.
Turn top burner to LITE position.
If no voltage is present on the meter, this will indicate the electrical circuit is interrupted before the spark module
If voltage is present, then check ignitor.
If ignitors are ok; then replace spark module.
To access the Spark Module:
Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.
Disconnect gas and power from unit.
Remove screws securing top surface burners.
Remove surface burner and disconnect spark ignitor wire from surface burner.
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Hello, welcome to fixya !
Based on your description I suspect you have a faulty bake ignitor. This may surprise you, or it may not. I think at first it surprises people when the hot surface ignitor glows but the oven won't lite.
Since the ignitor "glows" one figures it would appear to be working, that would be wrong.
These ignitor's serve 2 functions, 1) need to maintain a set value to open/activate the gas valve, typically around 3.5amps... & 2) ignite the fuel once said gas valve is open.
A poor/faulty ignitor may glow & and even ignite the burner intermittently for moments at a time ( thus giving off some heat but never the set amount or not lite at all ) but yet not reach the needed value to open the gas valve/safety valve consistently nor adequately, hence the need to replace the ignitor.
Try this and I'm certain you'll be up & running and as they say " cookin' with gas" ! I'd suggest you should refer to your specific model when ordering the part locally or on-line. The most common hot surface ignitor part is #12400035 and it will work in your Whirlpool too.
Try places like repairclinic.com, searspartsdirect.com, APwagner.com etc.
Thank's for visiting "fixya" for your stove inquiries. Please take a moment while here to rate the solution provided or let me know if you require further assistance and good luck.
Check to see if there is voltage going to the Hot Surface Ignitor when you first try to fire it up. If you have voltage but it fails to glow, the hot surface ignitor has failed and will need to be replaced.
Also ensure you have proper flow through your boiler......make sure you have water flowing through the boiler and, if there is a flow switch, check the voltage across the two terminals of the switch......check each to ground for voltage. If you have voltage, then check the voltage reading across the two terminals themselves, you should read 0 volts across the terminals (indicating the switch is closed).
Hot surface ignitors are "wear-n-tear" items and should be the first place to check.
I hope you find this information to be very helpful to you moving forward.
Please let us know if you need further help. :-)
Depending on the exact model, it would have either a spark ignitor or a hot surface ingnitor. The HSI uses either 24 or 120 Volts, the spark only uses 24 V. Easiest way to check is to use a volt meter, disconnect the ignitor plug, use the volt meter leads to check voltage at the plug and have the boiler start its ignition cycle, if you have voltage during the cycle, the ignitor is bad. If you are unsure of checking for voltage, have a professional do it. You can be seriously hurt or electrocuted if you are not careful on 120V ignition systems.
you may need a new gas valve....but i think you should replace the ignitor first. the gasvalve won't open unless the ignitor pulls a certain amp draw to keep it open, since yours is just opening when you hit it, and closing when you hit it again, i believe it is the ignitor