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Re: 4 stoke mantis tiller, loud noise not in engine,...
If you can get to the dry bushings, DuraLube pump lube will fix your problem. It is available at most automotive stores and departments for $8 -10. I've used it in areas where I had to lube every 10-20 working hours. Now i can go 200-300 working hours. You can also add 2 or 3 ounces to your crankcase oil.
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The following was extracted from the Mantis owners manual..
At some point, you may find that the tines won't turn when you press the throttle. This may mean the engine isn't sitting all the way down on the worm gear housing. Perhaps you've been using your Tiller
for several years. Or perhaps you've removed the engine for use with the Mantis hedge trimmer attachment, then replaced it. In either case, the flange bolt may have come loose and lifted the engine up.
If this happened you'll notice a gap between the bottom of the engine clutch case and the top of the worm gear housing.
To fix this, loosen the flange bolt. Take the engine off the worm gear housing. Notice the hex head on top of the drive shaft . Inside the clutch case, you'll find the clutch drum. Make sure the hex head
lines up with the clutch drum inside the clutch case. Then put the engine back on the worm gear housing. Make sure the plastic carrying handle is not under the fuel tank. If you've followed these steps properly, there will be no gap between the clutch case and the worm gear housing. Make sure you tighten the flange bolt.
I had this problem today. Loosen the flange bolt. Pull the engine off and check that the hex end of the shaft is lining up with the clutch pad in the engine-that it seats properly. Then make sure the shaft is seated all the way into the worm gear and put the engine back on. You will probably have to wiggle the shaft until it seats into the clutch. Tighten the flange bolt when the engine is seated flush with the worm housing (with no gap). That's all I did and the power is back up. Hopefully you still have your manual with the parts blow-up. (page 29?) BTW, have you checked that the wormgear is greased?
Common problem with these small tillers.
The gear box needs replaced or repaired.
But first try removing the muffler and see if it helps any as it could be the muffler is stopped up since it runs a gas/oil mix.
I took the transmission apart and the gears were fine. The friction pads on the centrifugal clutch don't seem to make full contact with the drum. Does anyone know what the thickness of the friction pads are suppose to be? I used some belt dressing on the pads and got some movement on the tines. With no wear on the gears, I guess I'll be replacing the clutch.