Ok, so my amp would overheat and turn off if i had my system up to high ( i gave 2 alpine type rs running at 1 ohm ) and then it started just kicking out if the volume was to high because it wasnt getting enuf voltage, i was having a problem with corosion on my battery. I bought new battery cables and ran the 4 gage wire again, and it worked great. Then after working fine for a month, i unplugged my amps power, ground and remote turn on becaue my bud was having problems with his amp so i hooked it up to see if it was his power and ground that was messing up his amp and found out it was his amp that was dead. So i hooked all my stuff back up and it started doing that thing where if i turned it up to loud it would kick out and give me error 03 about wires or grounds touching but all the wires were fine. I went to work, and it was still working like that, then i left work and the amp wont even power on. Checked all wires and fuses, i have power to the amp, ground is fine, and remote turn on has power there but amp wont do anything. Is it cooked? hard to fix? worth fixing? What would be a good amp that would push 1200 + watts rms if my amp is fried?
Wouldn't be the first JL amp I saw fried...but there are some tests you can do. First of all, double check your fuses, they may appear to be fine, but sometimes they are blown even if you can't see it. Either blindly change them or test them for continuity with a digital multimeter. Also, disconnect the remote turnon and jump power directly over from the power wire to the remote terminal on the amp, if the amp powers on then you have to go double check your remote wire. Hope this helps.
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it depends on the amp what can it handle. will it do 2 4 or 8 ohm is it 1 ohm stable are the subs dual 2 ohms or dual 4 ohms. 1042s are dual 4 ohm subs so if you wire them both in paralel it will drop both subs into a 2 ohm load for each sub that is pos of one coil to pos of sec coil then pos to pos on amp and same with neg to neg to neg on amp. now if your amp is 1 ohm stable i would do both subs the same way you will get the most power out of the amp. but itll run a littl hot if you dont have adaquate power running to the amp. now i wanna think your alpine amp maybe only 4 ohm stable. i would run both subs like i had said pos to pos then neg to neg now both subs will be a 2 ohm load so what you do to bring it back up to 4 is you run the 2 bridged subs into a series which is pos from one sub to neg of the other sub the remaining pos and neg will run to the amps pos and neg. which will make it into a 4 ohm load. now the last scenereo is your amp is 4 ohm or 2 ohm stable. this is how to wire it to 2 ohms and not 1. take one sub go pos to neg then pos to pos on amp and neg to neg on amp this will make an 8 ohm load with one sub take other sub and do the same neg to pos on sub then pos to pos on amp and neg to neg on amp this will tell amp to run a 2 ohm load. 2 ohms is a good run for these subs if the amp can handle a 2 ohm load. now if you would have given the amp model number i could have looked it up to just give you what you needed but with this short info i gave all possibilities.
You are probably running the ohms too low for the amp and its drawing too much current. Consult your amp manual for proper load level capacity and you can wire it accordingly. More then likely its only 4ohm stable bridged and your running it at 2 or less depending on if your subs have single or dual voice coils. Try connecting one pos speaker terminal to the other speaker neg then run the left ofer pos on one speaker and the the left over neg directly to the amp (series) I will raise the ohms (amp makes less power) but should not cut off unless the subs ohm are still to low, if this is the case you need a sub with a higher ohm rating or an amp wiht a lower rating...
Hi mate very nice amp you got there here is the specs for it
Model: MA Audio HK401SX
Hard Kore Series 1800 Watt 1 Channel High Performance Class
X Car Amplifier
1 x 1800W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Mono
1 x 1200W RMS
@ 1 Ohm Mono
1 x 650W RMS @
2 Ohm Mono
1 x 500W RMS @
4 Ohm Mono Fully Unregulated MOSFET Power
Supply 2 Ohm Stable @ Mono 1 Ohm Stable @ Mono 0.5 Ohm Stable @ Mono
if you have 2 12s just bridge them and you will have 650wrms at 2ohm running to them or one sub at 4 ohm 500w rms ps they should pump iam running 2 12s with just 360rms at 2ohm and they do the job good luck
if you get the 4ohm you can wire it to run a 2ohm an the kenwood amp will push 900 watts at 2ohms.they say it can push up to 1800 watts,that would be at 1ohm.that kenwood runs 500 at 4ohms an 900 at 2ohm.if you need help wiring the sub or anything else let me know bertman285@hotmail,com
Max Power Output
4 Ohm [14.4V]
500W x 1 [20-200Hz, 0.5%THD]
2 Ohm [14.4V]
900W x 1 [100Hz, 1.1%THD]
Go to rockfordfosgate.com they have a woolfer wiring wizard that can help you make sure your amp is under the correct ohm load, if your woolfers are wiring up on a 1 ohm stable load the amp will overheat and go into protection mode and cut out.. Need the woolfers on a 2 or 4 ohm stable load, and the amp should run fine with a capacitor, and some good 0 to 2 guage cable, plus a good battery and alternator to feed it
The Alpine PDX-1.1000 is a physically small amp to produce the power that it does. The result is that it has less physical area for heat to dissipate. Running at or near it's maximum output into a 2 ohm load, it needs some serious airflow to keep it cooled down. I'd look for some way to get more air to it.
How did you "switch the sub from 2ohms to 4 ohms"?
If you have the swr-1222d as listed, your only options are wiring 1 or 4 ohm, as it is a dual 2 ohm voicecoil.
If it was wired @ 1 ohm - you may have already done the damage to your amplifier - as it is not rated @ 1ohm mono.
There are 3 reasons the amplifier will go into protect mode while playing... Thermal - overheating due to too low impedence. Ground Loop/Short Circuit - Blown voicecoil, bad amplifier ground, tinsel slap, etc. Overload - Impedence not within specs.
Disconnect every wire (including RCAs) from the amplifier. Reconnect only power and ground - make a short wire to loop from power terminal to remote terminal.
If the amplifier stays on without turning off - remove the jumper, add the remote wire, and try again.
If it turns off - the problem is internal and needs repair.
Still on? plug in 1 rca, and re-try.... then the other.
Now use an Ohm Meter - or Digital multimeter set to ohms 20, and check both voicecoils. They should read 2ohms +/- .5ohm.
If they are OK, wire up the 4ohm load (series the voicecoils) and turn the gain on the amplifier to 1/2.
If the amplifier continues to fail at higher volumes - the thermal protection relay has become weakened because of your improper wiring, and will need to be repaired to solve your issue.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Well, that's a 2-channel amp, so it's really best used to power a set of regular speakers.
The best power solution, for your existing components, is to wire each of your subs voice coils in parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, and then run each sub off a separate channel from the amp.
The amp is stable only to 4 ohms in bridged mode, so you would series the sub voice coils (8 ohm load) and then parallel them (4 ohm load) to the amp bridged connection. This will result in less power to each sub than if you ran them separately.
If you set the gain too high on the AMP, at loud volume levels some clipping or distortion of the output signal will occur. Most amps have a Circuit inside that detects this clipping or distortion and applies protection to prevent damage to the speakers and the amp. It would help to know if you are driving the speakers with a Line level output or using the speaker output from your deck. There are many things that can cause an amp to go into protect mode, and knowing a little more about your setup will help to solve the problem.