Ok, so my amp would overheat and turn off if i had my system up to high ( i gave 2 alpine type rs running at 1 ohm ) and then it started just kicking out if the volume was to high because it wasnt getting enuf voltage, i was having a problem with corosion on my battery. I bought new battery cables and ran the 4 gage wire again, and it worked great. Then after working fine for a month, i unplugged my amps power, ground and remote turn on becaue my bud was having problems with his amp so i hooked it up to see if it was his power and ground that was messing up his amp and found out it was his amp that was dead. So i hooked all my stuff back up and it started doing that thing where if i turned it up to loud it would kick out and give me error 03 about wires or grounds touching but all the wires were fine. I went to work, and it was still working like that, then i left work and the amp wont even power on. Checked all wires and fuses, i have power to the amp, ground is fine, and remote turn on has power there but amp wont do anything. Is it cooked? hard to fix? worth fixing? What would be a good amp that would push 1200 + watts rms if my amp is fried?
Wouldn't be the first JL amp I saw fried...but there are some tests you can do. First of all, double check your fuses, they may appear to be fine, but sometimes they are blown even if you can't see it. Either blindly change them or test them for continuity with a digital multimeter. Also, disconnect the remote turnon and jump power directly over from the power wire to the remote terminal on the amp, if the amp powers on then you have to go double check your remote wire. Hope this helps.
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I'm using that Alpine right now for 2-12" subs and I have compared it to 6 or 7 other amps this month and most were 4 channel 150Watt/Channel Bridged to 300Watts x 2 and found the Alpine to be superior in both sound quality and loudness. The Alpine has also not turned off even with full volume for hours at a time, Very solid amp I was very surprised due to it's size!
ok its all in the way you wire them, just remember when you wire your speakers in series, the ohms build(add to eachother) which would make them total of 8 ohms, and if you wire in parrallel the ohm load cuts in half (2 ohms). So you want to wire them together in parrallel then run your wire to the amp. Just so you know though, if you bridge your amp, it will also cut the ohm load in half, so you would see total of 1 ohm which gives you more power, just make sure your amp is 1 ohm stable and your subs can handle it.
Is your gain all the way up? If it done this before, sounds like your over working the amp. Make sure your subs ohm load is capable with the amp load to. If they are 1 ohm and your amp is only 2 ohm stable, it would beat for a lil bit then go into protection mode to. Check your wires too.
Hi mate very nice amp you got there here is the specs for it
Model: MA Audio HK401SX
Hard Kore Series 1800 Watt 1 Channel High Performance Class
X Car Amplifier
1 x 1800W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Mono
1 x 1200W RMS
@ 1 Ohm Mono
1 x 650W RMS @
2 Ohm Mono
1 x 500W RMS @
4 Ohm Mono Fully Unregulated MOSFET Power
Supply 2 Ohm Stable @ Mono 1 Ohm Stable @ Mono 0.5 Ohm Stable @ Mono
if you have 2 12s just bridge them and you will have 650wrms at 2ohm running to them or one sub at 4 ohm 500w rms ps they should pump iam running 2 12s with just 360rms at 2ohm and they do the job good luck
Go to rockfordfosgate.com they have a woolfer wiring wizard that can help you make sure your amp is under the correct ohm load, if your woolfers are wiring up on a 1 ohm stable load the amp will overheat and go into protection mode and cut out.. Need the woolfers on a 2 or 4 ohm stable load, and the amp should run fine with a capacitor, and some good 0 to 2 guage cable, plus a good battery and alternator to feed it
The Alpine PDX-1.1000 is a physically small amp to produce the power that it does. The result is that it has less physical area for heat to dissipate. Running at or near it's maximum output into a 2 ohm load, it needs some serious airflow to keep it cooled down. I'd look for some way to get more air to it.
Well, that's a 2-channel amp, so it's really best used to power a set of regular speakers.
The best power solution, for your existing components, is to wire each of your subs voice coils in parallel, resulting in a 2 ohm load, and then run each sub off a separate channel from the amp.
The amp is stable only to 4 ohms in bridged mode, so you would series the sub voice coils (8 ohm load) and then parallel them (4 ohm load) to the amp bridged connection. This will result in less power to each sub than if you ran them separately.
If you set the gain too high on the AMP, at loud volume levels some clipping or distortion of the output signal will occur. Most amps have a Circuit inside that detects this clipping or distortion and applies protection to prevent damage to the speakers and the amp. It would help to know if you are driving the speakers with a Line level output or using the speaker output from your deck. There are many things that can cause an amp to go into protect mode, and knowing a little more about your setup will help to solve the problem.