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No water flowing over freezing plate on my Whirlpool EC5100XT

I have an EC5100XT Whirlpool Ice maker. The freezing plate seems to be getting cold and the cutter is heating up the scavenger pump is pumping. I replaced the valve and made sure the water was turned back on but I don't have any water running over that freezing plate. Any ideas? I did use some electronic parts cleaner to clean the contacts on connector that connects to the new valve. It looked a little corroded but not very badly corroded.

Thanks for the help,

Bill

Posted by on

  • bill919 Feb 09, 2009

    This would have been helpful if I had known how to work this. I was waiting for an email to let me know someone had responded. So I took matters into my own hands and replaced the pump that fills the reservoir. That was the problem. I did clean all of the parts associated with the reservoir and that fixed the problem but the problem WAS the pump not the other parts. I have had this machine for 20 years and replaced just about everything on it except that pump and the compressor over that time. I works great and just like new now. Thanks for the help although I'm sorry I didn't understand how this site worked. Your advice would have been a good place to start even though it wasn't the problem this time.

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7 Answers

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No water flowing over freezing plate on my Whirlpo - moz-screenshot.jpgI believe there may be a problem or clog in one of these parts running to freeze plate:
DISTRIBUTOR

WATER
RECIRCULATING
PUMP
OUTLET TUBE

WATER
RECIRCULATING
PUMP

DRAIN
OVERFLOW
TUBE

MAKE SURE THAT YOU ARE GETTING WATER TO THE RESERVOIR PAN
The water gets sucked up from reservoir pan and that goes to freeze plate.

You can check out this site for illustrated pics and diagram of your system and also troubleshooting

http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7fa63c9320a9b3685256aa2004a8394/$FILE/Ice Maker Sect 2.pdf

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 09, 2009

    IT TAKES ABOUT 20 MINUTES FOR EVERYTHING TO FILL UP. SINCE YOU JUST REPLACED THE VALVE, IT MAY TAKE EVEN LONGER. SO WAIT ABOUT 20 MINUTES BEFORE PULLING ANYTHING APART

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Feb 09, 2009

    IT WILL TAKE QUITE SOME TIME FOR THE FIRST ICE CYCLE TO FILL UP, FREEZE, AND DISPOSE

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  • 326 Answers

Http://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker.html
click the link above and get all the reparing and checking help with instructions and proper diagrams

also to check out if shutt off valve is installed properly or not click this link
http://www.applianceaid.com/iceshutoffvalve.html

thanks.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

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This could be a simple blockage that has closed the main drainage channel. i would check all parts that are involved in the drainage of water to the tray.

Posted on Feb 09, 2009

  • 1 more comment 
  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 29, 2009

    Here's a quick test for basic chilling performance: First,
    turn the machine off and remove and unplug the grid and set it aside.
    Drain the reservoir by removing the drain stopper, and then reinstall
    the stopper.
    Turn the machine on and see if the (dry) evaporator gets
    below-freezing cold and frosty in a few minutes. Resist
    the temptation
    to put your tongue on this freezing plate, because it will stick there,
    like pump handle in winter.
    Supply water should not be running or trickling into
    the machine during the chilling part of the cycle. After the evaporator
    chills well below freezing for a minute or two,
    the drop in temperature should trigger a harvest cycle (even though
    there is no ice slab), with the water supply turning on and refilling
    the reservoir. Wait for the harvest to end and chilling to start again.
    The reservoir water should now be running over the evaporator by the
    action of the circulating pump. Start a
    timer to know how many minutes have elapsed from this moment when the
    chilling started.

    After about 5 minutes the running water should be chilled to
    freezing
    cold and ice should just be starting to form on the evaporator.
    You can reach in to feel the plate surface with your fingertips to
    observe the very beginning of the ice formation;
    it can be hard to see the clear ice when it first forms under the sheet
    of flowing water.
    After 16
    to 20 minutes, the slab should be fully formed (1/2 inch thick) and the
    harvest should trigger. A machine with slightly degraded performance
    (such as from low refrigerant or dust-matted condenser coils) may take
    30 to 40 minutes to finish building a healthy slab of ice.
    Anything much longer indicates a significant performance problem.
    If the ice slab forms, but the harvest doesn't trigger, you may need to
    simply adjust
    the ice thickness control, or recalibrate the harvest thermostat; or
    you may have the
    loose attachment or outright failure of the harvest thermostat, as
    described elsewhere on this page.



    One cause of poor performance is warm water leaking in constantly from a
    leaky solenoid water valve. You can repeat the test above but disconnect
    the water supply from the machine just after it fills and starts chilling.


    Poor performance can be due to a slow refrigerant leak resulting in a low refrigerant charge.
    Fortunately, a low charge is typically easy to diagnose without tools by simply
    timing how long it takes the slab to grow to 1/2 inch thickness in the procedure described above,
    and ruling out that you don't have warm water leaking in constantly.


    The pattern of ice at the start of freezing also is a diagnostic indicator of
    refrigeration performance.
    The very first ice to freeze should appear in a square spiral pattern that follows the refrigerant tubing path
    across the evaporator plate (you can see this spiral path by inspecting the bottom of the evaporator with a mirror).
    If the slab forms only on the outside of the spiral, and doesn't form in the center region versus the perimeter,
    or forms much thinner or much later in the center compared to the perimeter,
    then you likely have the very common problem of a leaky refrigerant system with a low charge of refrigerant.
    This partial spiral pattern occurs because the liquid refrigerant flows first into the outside of the spiral, and
    in a low-charge condition the refrigerant boils off before the it reaches the center of the
    evaporator.



  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 29, 2009

    The first thing to check is that dust on the condenser in the bottom of the unit isn't
    restricting air flow. It may seem obvious, and we've all heard the advice to clean refrigerator coils, but
    this is easy to overlook and happens faster than on a refrigerator.
    The heat exchanger coils and fins are very tightly spaced, and typically build up a mat of dust in a matter of
    a few months. The best way to clean them is gently using a vacuum cleaner and narrow crevice tool to suction off the dust mat.
    Take care to avoid bending the fins.
    Consider running the machine with the bottom panel removed to improve air flow and
    heat rejection, at least temporarily for diagnosis.

  • mohammed marika thambi
    mohammed marika thambi Jan 29, 2009



    • Clean off any flux residue, and reinsert the valve stem after the soldered assembly cools.
      While the valve should seal completely, this is not necessary, if you apply
      an O-ring cap to cover the access port when you are not servicing the machine.



    • Check the solder joint and cap seal for leaks after you charge the machine, using a soap-bubble solution.


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Check also that the water is not freezing in the lines.
Try defrosting complely the unit , if it works at restart , it was probably water line frozen.

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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I've got one of these too, and good luck with it in the future.

Is the pump running in the back of the unit?

Is there water in the reservoir a the back of the unit?

If the pump is running, and there is water in the reservoir, there is a plastic manifold that runs across the top back of the evap plate. If can be removed and cleaned, which there is a series of holes in the plastic manifold that will clog with mineral salts that precipitate.

If there is not water in the sump, and the water is on, and you've changed the water valve, you need to make sure the unit has had time to go through one or more full ice making cycles in order to turn the water valve back on in the cycle sequence, which will fill the reservoir.

The pump should run anytime the compressor is running except when the unit is in ice harvest mode.

Reply back you findings and I can offer more instruction.

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • Mark Egan Feb 10, 2009

    Glad you got it fixed up!

    Let us know if you need anything else!


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  • 153 Answers

U better clean up the corroded 
tat wil cause lots of trouble
it must be perfect

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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