3 piece tub needs to re-caulked. Is this a do it yourself project?

Unfortunately this is usually caused by a leak and the drywall is wet , and or the tub is sinking due to water damage to floor. If the drywall is solid then use a utility knife to remove old caulk, then after area is clean apply silicone caulk around the tub. apply neatly but with plenty enough to fill the void. I then spray a dish soap an water mixture on the calk then remove excess by pressing thumb down and sliding it long caulking. This presses it into the gap and also removes excess, which leaves you a neatly caulked tub.

Use a good quality bath and tub caulk applied to the deeper parts of the gap. Do not fill all the way out to the top of the gap with the caulk. When the caulk is dry, then apply the same color grout over the caulk.

1. 1

   Cut the tip off the tube of caulk, and load the fresh tube into the caulking gun. Puncture the seal inside the tip of the tube using a nail, stiff wire or the special puncturing tool built onto many caulk guns.
   

2. 2

   Insert backer rod into large openings. These foam strips are available in sizes ranging from 3/8 inch to over 1 inch, and should be perfect for most bathroom filler needs. For larger holes, consider using a foam spray filler, but be careful as the foam expands a great deal and could overflow onto your work area if too much is used.
   

3. 3

   Caulk the joints as you normally would. For large cracks, don't force your caulking into the crevice, but simply form a bead over the crack. Use multiple beads and a caulking tool or piece of scrap lumber to shape the caulk and remove excess.
   

4. 4

   Allow the caulk to dry for 4 to 6 hours. Using the tip of your utility knife, check that the caulk adhered to all edges and formed a seal. For really large cracks, it may be necessary to repeat the process.
   

5. 5

   When caulking open cracks, place a bead along each edge of the crack. Allow the caulk to set for 5 minutes, and apply a third bead over the first two. Use the damp sponge to shape and remove excess caulk.
   

This is a 5 piece surround. For this project you will need the surround, polystryene adhesive, a utility knife, caulking and caulking gun, dish soap and the box the surround came in. On this type of surround the back and end walls are installed 1st and then the corner shelves are installed. Ensure the wallboard or substrate is clean and free of contaminates. Best to install new backer board or moisture resistant drywall first before proceeding. You will need adhesive specifically designed to glue the panels and corner shelving to the walls. Common product is PL700 from Lepage. Follow the manufactures instructions for the adhesive you are using. Avoid any adhesives not approved for use with plastics as they will damage the surround. Remove the tub spout, hot and cold water handles and diverter handle if your shower is equiped with one. Common diverters are a pull up on the tub spout. Install the panels with the bottom edge directly on the tub deck. For the end panel where the plumbing comes through you will need to cut access holes. Use the box that the surround came in as a template so that you are not accidentilly cutting holes in the wrong location. After installing the panels and shelving corners you will need to seal the seams with 100% silicone caulk. Peel the shelf edges back slightly and run a bead of caulk underneath the seam. Smooth the caulk line out. TIP Use a latex glove and dip your finger in dishsoap. The silicone will not stick to the dishsoap and will leave a clean fine line. Run a 1/4 bead of silicone where the surround meets the tub and also where the plumbing goes through the surround. Allow to dry and cure as per the manufacture's suggestions. TIP Install expanding foam in the cavaties of the shelving. This will provide a more rigid shelf and will extend the life of your new tub surround. Good luck with your project.

You will need to seal any holes made in your acrylic walls inside your bath unit. When installing the brackets to the wall, try using a piece of rubber (pre-cut for a custom look) between the acrylic wall and the bracket mounting hardware. Be sure to seal everything with a clear latex caulk that is designed to resist mold.

keep caulking or change to ceramic tile, or one piece shower units ,without seams

If you have the option of not using the shower for a while, I would put a dehumidifier in the shower to **** the mositure out from below. If cost is no object, you can go ahead and pull the base. The key to the caulk is to completely remove the old caulk, clean carefully and use a silicon based caulk. Be sure to let it dry properly (see caulk cure times on tube).

You may want to try to find some thin ceramic tile beading and gluing it in place and caulking the remaining gap. Use a waterproof construction glue. This is most likely to be something you customize to fit. Often you can rent a ceramic wet saw and cut tiling to fit the need. Use proper safety gear, and be particularly careful if ripping thin pieces less you gain the nickname stubby.

Yes. Look for a silicone caulking with a mildewcide (some brands call it Bio Seal)

gonna need a little more info other then bath leakage. would like to know does it leak only when being used? is it a lot of water little water leeking? what type of bath it is fiberglass ,cast iorn, plastic? is there a shower head? age of bath?caulking condition around bath.