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If the unit is running in cold weather than there is ice building up on the coils located outside. This is normal in that the unit is running in heat pump mode heating inside and cooling outside, After the unit detects the ice build up it briefly reverses the cycle heating the outside coils melting(defrosting) the ice which you observe as water on the pad.
When any unit 1st come's on, you'll always have some cold air that's in the ducts that will blow out before you get warm air. If your duct work is uninsulated in a cold basement or crawl space then it will be even more noticeable. When the unit is heating from the Heat Pump mode, it takes a little longer for the gases to get warm enough so you'll fell heat. When it gets cold enough for the unit to switch from heat pump to the gas or electric heat source, you'll get warm air faster. If you have gas heat, some Thermostats have an anticipator setting for the gas valve. If it's set wrong it will effect the on/off cycle of the gas valve.
All duct work in non heated and a/c spaces, including inside walls,above dropped ceilings, in attics and crawl spaces, must be sealed & taped at the seams and joints and then insulated and taped.
Most new construction has solved that problem with insulated duct board, flexible insulated supply's and special tape.
how cold is it outside? Aircons are only efficient at heating (assuming they have a proper heat pump design) down to around 0-5 degrees C. below -10 degrees C you might not achieve any heating at all. If there is a preheat cycle or defrost ensure you allow this to complete before expecting heat from it. Remember heating is the reverse cycle of cooling so if your system has a gas leak it might not work anyway.
Water leakages out the front are usually attributed to poor drainage. IE , the wall unit is not sloping slightly to the rear, or in the case of a split system, the drain hose is not directed down and away from inside. I would suggets checking the filters first. If the filters are blocked, and the cooling is set really low, its possible for the coil to start freezing and thus, leak water out the front. If the filters are clean and the coil is still freezing, you may have a gas shortage . Eventually when the gas runs out, the water leak will stop and the unit wont cool at all. If the system is working properly, on cooling mode, there should be cold air inside and the unit should be blowing hot air outside. If on heating mode, the reverse happens...
Is it leaking out of the evaporator(inside unit) or condenser?
If it is leaking from the outside unit on defrost then it is normal, if it is leaking from the inside unit then you have a blocked condensate drain tube!
These units defrost from time to time and is normal, it is actually melting the ice that can form on the condenser when it is cold enough outside, it has to initiate a defrost cycle so that air can flow through the condenser again after the cycle is complete.
Then it will return to normal heat pump mode, this is assuming that you have a heat pump.
Hi, This is called a split system heat-pump. If it was cooling and stopped and cooled again and now stopped, you need to be sure the outdoor unit is working properly. You can only check certain things as they require special gauges and know how. Make sure the condenser fan is on and reach down where the 2 copper lines are when it is on. Grab hold of the large line which is the suction side and it should be cold enough to condensate. The smaller is the liquid line and should be warm in the cooling mode.If not, listen to see if you can hear the compressor running inside of it. Should hear a humming sound. You can carefully remove the control panel door and feel it to see, but BE CAREFUL! Don't get your hand in the fan blade. Do these checks and get back to me when you do and we can go from there. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
If this is aheat pump or reverse cycle unit that amps in heating is to high. Should not go over nameplate amps in heat or cool. Sounds like maybe two things. Overcharge and stopped up coil on the inside air handler. The reason for the high amps is in heat the head pressure is higher than normal. So check the coil inside and have the charge checked because that compressor wont run long pulling that much amps over nameplate. Keep in touvh Rus.