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Dryer heats for 10 minutes and turns off

Hi I have a kenmore front load dryer that heats for 10 minutes and then goes cold. We checked the glow plug and it does glow for the second round of heat but, never heats again. We checked the vent and all the hoses for lint. It still does not work.

Our is a 417 series

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  • 4 more comments 
  • bgld Jan 31, 2009

    Hi, Thank you for offering to help.

    I have checked the vent hose, no clogs. I have a very good air flow outside. I also took the front panel off and vaccumed the inside. (there was lint on the inside) I did notice that during the first "cycle" that heats my dryer gets very hot on the side and the front. I dont know if it ever did this before. Any help would be great!

  • bgld Jan 31, 2009

    Well I took off the drum and there was a lot of lent

    in the intake, I pulled it out and it came out as one piece

    in the forum of the intake and the edge was burnt.

    I put it all back together and again it

    will only flame up on the the start up but

    when the glow light come on about 10 min. later

    it does not light, the glow light keeps coming on but

    it does not light up again.

    i seem to have really good air flow out of the vent.

    and on start up when it does flame up

    the side closes to the flame and the back of the

    dryer becomes so hot that you can not touch it for long.

    thanks for all the help.

    the Model # is 417.9104200



  • bgld Feb 01, 2009

    Thanks,

    I have watched the flame and it seems to stay put,

    I'm thinking it might be the thermostat,

    I should have started this blog with more info.

    a week ago my water pipes under my house

    froze up and I used my dryer vent under

    the house to try and heat up my water

    line(will never do that again )

    but that's went this all stated,

    do you think that this might have caused

    it to overheat and maybe messed up the

    thermostat? again thank you

    I really do Appreciate it

  • bgld Feb 01, 2009

    I dont have or know how to use a multimeter(darn it)

    I'm not even sure where the thermostat is.

    it does not matter what temperature setting it is on,

    it gets very hot on the side and back.

    Thank you again.

  • bgld Feb 03, 2009

    I bought the part today and installed it, then I used

    a temp. probe in the vent next to the thermostat-control

    and ran the dryer empty, it got up to

    160 dreg. then shut off , it drop to about 120 dreg.

    came back on to about 160 dreg. it did this one more time

    so i thought that it worked however when i put wet clothes

    in it and turn it on it went to 160 and then drop but did not kick back on. this is driving me nuts.

    thanks again for the help

  • bgld Feb 07, 2009

    well I didn't replace the thermostat, because I had a friend

    check it with a VOM and he said it was still good.

    i can't really afford to replace parts unless I know that is whats wrong with it.

    I did disconnect the vent to make sure it was not

    clogged and it still does the same thing.

    it fire up and heat just fine at the beginning but when it

    should heat up again, the glow light comes on but

    no gas.

    thanks for your input and help

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  • 1,214 Answers

Turn the dryer on, go out to the where the vent exits the house. Feel the air coming out, and it should blow very strong, and for the total diameter of the discharge. If it doesn't, the vent pipe is plugged, or the connection hose from wall to dryer is crimped/collapsed when pushed back to the wall.

Also make sure lint filter is clean, and the grill inside the dryer where hot air enters is clear.

Reply back your findings and I can help you more.

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • Mark Egan Jan 31, 2009

    I'll need the full model number to help you more as I need to try and find the wiring diagram.But I'm real suspect that it may be shutting down on the overtemp stat, and that the inlet to the dryer drum may be clogged.

    Look up inside the dryer and you'll see two grills where the hot air comes into and leaves the drum. Are both of those clear? If not, clear them. One will be clogged from inside the drum, the other will be clogged from the backside, so you will need to access the backside unless you can clean it good from the front, without dropping chunks of lint back down and not retrieving them (not retrieving them, they will just blow right back up there.).

    Let me know what you find out.

  • Mark Egan Feb 01, 2009

    Well, your on the right path.

    The sides getting hot are an indication that the flame is either not going to where it is supposed to, or the thermostat is bad.

    The flame isn't going where it's supposed to because either the flame duct has a hole in it, or something has a hole in it or is missing, preventing the blower from drawing the flame into the flame duct toward the blower for some reason. On the alternative, if the blower cannot push enough air out of the dryer, it can't **** enough air to maintain control of the burner.
    Once the system operates like this for a few minutes, and heats up the mass of the dryer where it's not supposed to, the over temp sensor kicks out, and blocks the gas valve from opening (even though the thermostat says it needs heat.). And with all the heat in the mass, it takes a long, long time to cool back down enough to allow the overtemp sensor to reset.

    If you can watch the ignitor light up, then do this. Let the dryer cool down, and intiate a dry cycle, and watch the flame the whole time until it shuts off. Keep you face and hands/arms clear of any stary flames that may be about in the dryer, and be prepared to shut things off when the flame lights, in the event there is severe flame rollout (You don't want any singed eyebrows here. Been there, done that. It's not fun on a Saturday night, and it will really mess with that part in your hair.).

    Let me know what you find. You've made good progress so far. We just have not found the culprit.

    Oh, and by the way, good flow at the outlet is relative. But let's say that it should feel like you've stuck you hand out the car window at 45-50 miles per hour. Nice and strong.


  • Mark Egan Feb 01, 2009

    It could be thermostat, but then it may not be.The dryer doesn't know where it's venting to, under the house, or into the vent.

    Does the side of the dryer get extremely hot regardless of the dryer temperature setting?

    If you know how to use a multimeter, then somehow clip the meter across the terminals of the over temp stat, set to a scale something higher than 120 Volts, and turn the dryer on. You should not get a reading.

    If it trips out on overtemp, when the sensor opens, you will get a reading of 120 volts. And it will stay that way until it cools back down. If the problem is the temperature control thermostat, and the 120 VAC is always there, regardless, then it's the temp control thermostat.

    Let me know what you find.

  • Mark Egan Feb 01, 2009

    You access the thermostat from the back of the control head.

    1) Get a new stat.
    2) Unplug unit
    3) Remove stat knob from in front.
    4) Remove rear access panel.
    5) Disconnect wiring from stat, noting their connection points. You might try to connect to the new stat as you disconnect from the old stat.
    6) Remove old stat, probably a 1/4 turn and pull out, but there may be screws from the front holding it in as well.
    7) Install the new stat.
    8) Put everything back together and test.

    Let me know what you find. Stat is shown at $8.34 from Sears Parts website, P/N 134398600.

  • Mark Egan Feb 03, 2009

    Well, if all the vent duct is clear and the blower is not clogged up, and everything in terms of air flow is as good as you say, then go buy a new thermostat for the unit.

    What is driving me crazy is why the side and back panel are getting so hot. Warm makes sense, but hot doesn't, and tells me either the flame is not going where it's supposed to, or there is not sufficient air flow for some reason.

    I have to leave it to you to be the eye's and ears of what's going on. And I am here to give guidance, cause I know you can fix it.


  • Mark Egan Feb 08, 2009

    The problem is the high temp thermostat since you've bought and replace the thermostat, and you've seen it temperature cycle. The only thing left in the circuit is the high limit stat, and it's much cheaper than the thermostat that you said you've replaced.

    Note that the limit stat will read closed when it's cold, and the only way you can determine if it's the culprit is to put the voltmeter across it's terminals, set it to volts, and run the dryer.
    The meter should never read more than 0 volts during operation of the dryer, and if it does, then, you either have restricted airflow, or the limit thermostat is bad. One final check is to monitor the temperature like you did before, and watch the voltmeter. If the the limit stat opens at anytime (you read voltage), and the temperature is less than the 160 degrees peak you read before, then the limit stat is bad.

    Let me know what you find.


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