My name is rob, lets see if we can solve your problem
If the welders been working ok first question is what has changed, has it been moved or modified in any way?
Next, are ther any fuses or breakers fitted? are these ok?
Next, most engine driven welders have one major problem.
It shakes stuff loose, undos connections and damages static components,
Take some covers of to expose the internals and with THE ENGINE STOPPED check along the length of the cable harness especially at the ends of cables, give each terminal a tug with the cable to make sure there are no problems there. Also check the condition of the insulation of the harness along its lenght. at this point you may find a "hidden" in-line fuse somewhere in the harness if your lucky!
If none of this helps it gets a little more tricky, could you give me make and model? that would help a lot.
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remove the side doors, and top cover, make sure your brushes are making correct contact against the slip rings, there is a flat mounting panel behind the range control switch, you will see 2 white fuses in their holders, check these fuses, one controls AC output the other controls weld current output.
With these smaller machines you have a common problem. The way to get the weld to hold is on thicker material you have to sometimes pre-heat the metal in order to get it to stick. Also if ther is no flux nor gas the material has to be clean, free of dirt, oil, and rust. These machines are for very light use only. For welding material over 8 th inch, I suggest investing in a welder with at least 100 amps
Could be something as simple as worn brushes, dirty slip rings, or a bad bridge rectifier. If you know how to check them, these are all something you could fix. If it's anything beyond those, you're best bet would be take it to a repair facility. I repaired welders for 18+ years. (just an FYI)
If the idle is not working, then it is either you idle solenoid attached to the carberator or your idle board is bad. If you apply 12Vdc to the idle solenoid is should move, if not then the solenoid is shot, no good. If it works then you idle board is bad. Also, check to see if you are 60Hertz by measuring at the outlet with a frequency meter. I recommend a Fluke meter. You should have 120Vac and 60HZ at the outlet. If the frequency is low then your engine speed needs to be increased. The idle solenoid could be causing all these problems.
open inspection door,which also the fine tuner knob is ,there's a 2x4 size circut board that snaps out with little force to remove,this is the voltage regulator board,look for 4700 ohm resisitor burnt into,tv tech can fix or order new board at $227.00 what i paid.
Hi there, This sounds like your idle control module has gone bad. Since the machine will rev up to weld speed if you turn the switch to high it can't be that the solenoid has gone bad. Some models of engine driven welders from Miller use a little module, others have the idle circuit built into the control board, can't tell which yours is without a model number. This problem could also indicate a broken current transformer since letting the unit heat up makes things better. I'd use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the CT while it was cold to see if it goes from open circuit to just a few Kohms of resistance when it gets "room temp".
You don't say what model welder you have, some Miller welders have 3 slip rings and brushes some have just 2. In either case the next step is to use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the rotor and brush assembly. If this is a 2 slip ring model, take one of the wires off of one of the brushes then measure the resistance between the 2 brush terminals - it should be something between 10 and 100 ohms. If you get an open circuit measure the resistance from one slip ring to the other right at the slip rings - if you now get something other than an open you've got bad brushes (about $10 each to replace),
The 3 slip ring models are similar but have 2 rotor windings - take off the wire from the middle brush and measure from it to each of the ends.
If your rotor and brushes checked out OK you should next check the fuse in the exciter circuit, this will be on the block where the other end of the brush wires go.
If the fuse was good you need to do an excitation test. This is a bit dangerous so be careful. Look at the schematic pasted inside the case and figure out which brush is the positive (+) one. The wires are numbered and so is the schematic so this isn't as hard as it might seem. Disconnect the wires from both brushes (all 4 wires in the 3 slip ring model) and tape them off so you won't get shocked. Get a 9V battery or make up jumpers that will let you connect the welder battery to the brushes. Start the welder and connect your temporary power supply, measure the AC at the outlets (it should be around 60VAC with a 9V battery) and the DC voltage at the weld terminals (should be above 10V), lastly measure the voltage at the wires you disconnected from the brushes (should be around 70V DC). Disconnect the temporary power supply and shut down the welder. If you didn't get AC at the outlets and DC at the weld terminals above, something is wrong with the stator in your welder. If you didn't measure any DC on the wires that go to the brushes (most likely thing to happen), you've got something wrong in the exciter circuit. Check the rectifier, the capacitor, the exciter winding in the stator, and lastly the current control board. Older welders will also have the fine current control rheostat in this circuit (look for burned windings on it).
That's about all of the general advice I can give you without knowing more about which welder you have.