Tenson on nut that holds hub on cv joint on nissan pulsar n13

no one answered the guys question

The nut should be a conical locking style nut. 90 foot pounds is normal torque setting if it is a non self lock nut. Locking nuts are installed till fully seated

Jack up car and apply e-brake. car will roll if one of the front tires leaves the ground. remove tire , spindal nut and lower ball joint bolts. remove axle from hub then use a prybar to pop it out of trans. the passenger side will have a braket holding axle to engine , remove bolts from braket or squeeze snap-ring to rmove axle from braket.

Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.

2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.

3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.

4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.

5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.

6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.

7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.

Nissan Pulsar N13 and Holden Astra LD 1987 - 1991 Workshop Manual Repair Manual for Nissan Pulsar N13 Series & Holden Astra LD Series ... N13 and Holden Astra LD 1987 - 1991 Workshop Manual ... 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990 and 1991. Holden Astra LD ...www.automotobookshop.com.au/gregorys-?nissan-pulsar... - Cached

jack up vehicle, remove wheel, remove split pin from hub nut, remove nut, remove lower ball joint nut & separate ball joint, lever lower arm down, pull hub forward while pushing cv joint in wards through hub, remove cv gaiter clips and slide back on shaft, hold shaft firmly and knock cv joint off with hammer, pack new joint with grease, and place on shaft with nut on threads carefully knock on with hammer, re-fit parts in reverse order

manual or auto

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands, then remove the wheel and the tire assembly.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the drive axle.
3. Have a helper firmly apply the brakes, and loosen the hub nut.
4. Remove the caliper assembly.

It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Position the caliper out of the way and secure with mechanics wire.

1. Using the removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent, remove the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle.
2. On 1982-86 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the lower control arm, by removing the mounting nuts from the bottom of the control arm.
3. On 1987-90 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent.
4. Using a block of wood and a mallet, separate the halfshaft from the hub/steering knuckle assembly. If the assembly is difficult to separate it may be necessary to use a press/puller tool.

In order to protect the halfshaft from damage, it is a good idea when striking the halfshaft, to temporarily install the hub nut.

1. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
2. Support the engine properly and remove support bracket if so equipped.
3. Remove the halfshaft from the right side on automatic transaxle equipped vehicles and on all manual transaxles as follows:
   1. Insert a suitable prybar between the inner CV-joint and the transaxle.
   2. Carefully pry the halfshaft from the transaxle.
   
   

When removing the driveshaft from the transaxle, do not pull on the driveshaft. The driveshaft will separate at the sliding joint (damaging the boot).

1. Remove the left side halfshaft on automatic transaxles as follows:
   1. Remove the right side halfshaft as outlined above.
   2. Insert a slotted screwdriver, from the right side of the transaxle.
   
   

Make certain that the screwdriver is properly aligned into the slot in the halfshaft.

1. Tap the screwdriver with a mallet to remove the left side halfshaft from the transaxle.

1. Pull the hub/steering knuckle assembly away from the vehicle and remove the halfshaft from the transaxle.

After removing the halfshaft from the transaxle, be sure to install a holding tool to hold the side gear in place while the axle is removed.
To install:

1. Always use a new circlip on the driveshaft and install a new oil seal to the transaxle.
2. Install the halfshaft into the transaxle.

When installing the driveshaft into the transaxle, use oil seal protector tool KV38105500 or equivalent to protect the oil seal from damage; after installation, remove the tool.

1. Align the halfshaft with the hub/knuckle assembly and connect the lower control arm-to-ball joint.
2. On 1982-86 vehicles, connect the lower control arm to the ball joint and tighten the control arm-to-ball joint nuts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (54-64 Nm).
3. On 1987-90 vehicles, connect the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten the stud nut to 43-54 ft. lbs. (59-74 Nm).
4. Connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle and torque the tie rod stud nut to 22-36 ft. lbs. (30-49 Nm).
5. Install then hub nut and tighten to 87-145 ft. lbs. (118-197 Nm).
6. Install new cotter pin in drive axle and mount the caliper assembly.
7. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
8. Road test for proper operation.

get a needle (napa or autozone should have one) for the grease gun and poke the rubber and fill with grease and also try autozone.com to see if they have your car listed for diagrams pictures and step by step instructions if your car is not listed then try your local library they have all the car manuals and even copy them for you

You don't have to pull the hub! No spring compressor needed. Either unhook the steering knuckle from the strut or thre lower ball joint and swing it out away from the car. Remeber to remove the brake calipers and tie rod ends to get more "swing". It takes a little palying with to manuver it out but you can do it.