Both the Frig and Freezer have stopped working, there is power and there is no ice build up on the coils.........but we have had brief power outages, could this have blowen the Frig and Freezer? and if so can it be fixed?
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Re: Kenmore Model #253-64802400
IT SOUND AS THOUGH THE COMPRESSOR IS NOT RUNNING. IF IT IS AND YOU HAVE NO COOLING, THEN YOU HAVE A SEALED SYSTEM PROBLEM AND WILL NEED A SERVICE TECH. IF IT IS NOT RUNNING, UNPLUG IT AND REMOVE THE RELAY AND OVERLOAD FROM THE SIDE OF THE COMPRESSOR. MAKE NOTE OF WHERE THE WIRES CONNECT AND REMOVE THEM. NEXT, SHAKE THE RELAY AND LISTEN FOR WHAT SOUNDS LIKE A BUNCH OF SMALL ROCKS IN IT. IF YOU HEAR THIS, THE CERAMIC DISC IN THE RELAY IS BLOWN AND YOU NEED A NEW ONE. IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THE POWER SURGES TO BLOW THESE DISCS.
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You need to have the defrost cycle checked.( heater, limit stat, timer) If the frig can't defrost air can't move across your coils to cool properly. To temporarily get by until you can get a repairman, use a blow dryer to melt the ice build up. Once melted it will work normally for about 2 days till it freezes up again.
My refrgerator a Kenmore, model 106-71182101, with ice maker stopped cooling and freezing.I vacuumed the condenser coils, and fan in the rear bottom, along with any other debris. I unplugged the frig because the compressor was very HOT!.Question? Could the compressor have a Locked-Rotor? If so what can I do to loosen it.
It sounds like you have a defrost drain issue. An annoyance to say the least. To repair you will need to clear the defrost drain as it can get a build up over a few years of use. On a top freezer model you will need to unload the freezer and remove the back panel, be sure the power is disconnected by unplugging the refrigerator.
With the back panel off you will see a set of coils that resemble a radiator in a car, below that coil is a pan that slopes to a hole the size of a dime, you may not be able to see that hole due to the ice build up. Clear the ice with hot water and towels to clean up the mess. Careful not to use anything sharp or damage the coil.
Once the ice is gone use a turkey baster to flush hot water down that dime sized hole until it flows clear, you will know when it is.
I can help you diagnose the problems with your GE. Several things can cause these symptoms. All you need is a voltage meter patience and a want to, to repair and do it better than a paid technician. In most cases with the PSS26MSRSS the defrost heater is the cause for this. Look into rear of your freezer and back wall. Is Ice or frost building on rear wall? If yes unplug and prepair to remove contents in freezer compartment. Remove rear panel in freezer and use hair dryer to defrost ice until the defrost heater is visible. BRB , Sea Breeze
If the freezer is staying cold it sounds like a defrost system problem. A bad timer, heater or thermostat can cause frost to build up on the coils and block air flow to the refrig side. Check out ACMEHowTo.com for troubleshooting the defroster problem.
There is a small duct between the freezer and refrigerator side if this is blocked the frig side won't cool.
Usually when the freezer is still giving cold but the frig is not receiving cold you have an ice build-up on the cold (evaporator) coil that is hidden behind the rear panel of the freezer compartment. If you push on this panel, you usually will hear a cruntch sound (this tells you there is ice/frost on the coil). There are 3 components that affect this problem: defrost timer, defrost stat, defrost heat coil. In other words, something is not working to remove the frost from the coil and it is building-up day after day (takes about 5-7 days to become full (blocked). When this happens, no air can move over the coil to take the cold away and blow it throughout the frig or freezer compartments.
To access the defrost coil or stat, you have to ren move the back panel (in the freezer) and remove all the ice with a hair dryer only or let the door open all day and allow it to melt. DO NOT PUSH OR PRY OR CHOP WITH ANY TOOL OR YOU WILL BE GARRANTEED TO PUNCTURE A HOLE IN THE COIL AND YOU ARE REALLY SCREWED. The time is either: under the front of the whole refrigerator, or in the frig compartment (towards the back or attached to the ceiling of frig compartment). If you have some experience with electrical parts, you can test to see which part is at fault. Good Luck. Macgivor
if there is ice build up you have a defrost problem. either the heater bimetal thermostat timer or evap fan could be bad. you could also have a stopped up drain. if the coils get too much ice build up the air wont beable to travel through them and the bad air flow will cause the fridge to become warmer
Does your locale have high humidity? If it does, there is no true way of stopping the build-up of frost (and ice). Unfortunately, water vapor condenses below the dew point (temperature at which vapor turn to liquid). This happens at higher temperatures in very high humidity environments. It is not as noticeable in the winter months when humidity is low, but the summer months are another story. Just like when you see water vapor on the outside of a glass of ice tea in the summer; you don't notice it as much in the winter months.
I just worked on a FF801W which is supposed to be very similar. The defrost heater in mine was of the glass tube type and located under the evaporator. There was a bimetal thermostat clipped to the top of the evaporator and a thermal fuse (sealed in a clear plastic tube) nearby. The connections were behind a little plastic cover (2 screws) in the back wall just above the evaporator.
Mine was iced up like yours and I had to defrost it with a hair dryer. All the defrosting parts in the freezer compartment turned out to work so I now suspect the defrost timer (down by the compressor). I've marked it and I'm waiting to see if it's turning.