Question about Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Slide-In Gas Range - White

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Gas oven will not ignite

We replaced the safety valve in the oven and now the oven will not ignite. The igniter comes on but no propane is allowed in. Prior to this, the oven did not ignite and then one day when it did light, it would not shut off until I shut off the valve on the propane tank. Now that the new safety valve is installed, the oven still does not work. Do you have any ideas on what this is caused by? Would the control panel on the top of the stove have anything to do with this or would it be the igniter?

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I would be suspect of the temperature control valve based on your previous experience. I am assuming the safety valve you are speaking of was really a regulator.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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Arcoaire furnace ran out of propane and now wont ignite


Check along the gas supply line to the furnace and make sure there isn't a valve that is shut off. If you have a gas oven see if the ranges light and have gas. I'm assuming you've also turned on the gas supply at the furnace itself as well. Check that the furnace has electricity it won't be able to open the automatic valve let alone fire the igniter. My brand new furnace had a safety switch that went out 3 days after installation preventing it from lighting. You might contact Arcoaire about that. http://www.arcoaire.com/

Dec 23, 2013 | Ovens

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Sears kenmore gas oven - bought a new oven safety valve because the oven ignitor was coming on, but gas valve was not opening. Put new safety valve on, doing same thing, if you tap the valve on top, it...


Hello,

The reason the igniter would come on yet not let the gas flow is because the IGNITER IS WEAK and not drawing the proper power to open the gas valve. Replace the igniter nad the oven will work without having to tap on the valve

GENE

Oct 16, 2011 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

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No gas flow to oven, glow bar ignites no flame no smell of gas. safety gas safety valve was replaced


With the glow bar going and no gas smell that means you have a good circuit from control to valve and glow bar. For that glow bar to work it must change in resistance. If it is weak it won't change enough resistance to make the gas valve bi-metal open. Also the gas safety valve does not come preset and usually is bottomed out all the way for propane. You must adjust the orifice to aprox the same height as the old one to get the propah gas output for natural gas.


themobilian_2603.jpg
if your old valve did not leak and has continuity between the terminals it is fine. The ignitor/glowbar is weak. If it is dim orange that is usually a way to tell. Bumping the stove makes the bi-metal come on also is a sign of a weak glowbar
themobilian_2604.jpg

Jul 14, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

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I have a GE Spectra XL44, model #JGBP40BEC4WH gas oven. The 4 burners on top work but the oven will not. I replaced the oven safety valve (dual type 1), thinking that it was stuck and not directing gas to...


Most likely, you're oven igniter is not getting hot enough to open the gas valve to ignite the burner. It glows like normal, but does not reach the temperature required to open the gas valve. Replace the igniter. Before you replace that, make sure that the small shutoff lever on the appliance regulator was not accidentally closed, which would turn off the gas to the oven, while still allowing gas to the stovetop. The silver lever should be sticking straight out or up. Douglas

Sep 12, 2010 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

2 Answers

Oven wont light


When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils(This will be the next possible issue if the igniter is functional)

Sep 26, 2009 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Gas Oven does not work.


Here's the deal about those igniters. They get "weak". See? That safety valve is there to monitor how much current (amps) is flowing through the igniter. Once the correct amperage is satisfied, the safety valve "knows" that the igniter is hot enough to ignite gas so it opens up and allows gas to flow through the manifold.

The reason you can tap the valve to light the gas is that the valve is almost ready to open anyway. You just send it over the top by tapping it. So, the fix for this one is to replace the igniter. All your troubles will be gone then... well... not "all", but the oven will work! Here's the igniter or you can use this one...a universal igniter and cheaper, too!). Hopefully, you have an appliance parts place locally, if not you can get it online.

Hope this helped!

SG


Apr 05, 2009 | Tappan TGF657 Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

I have GE propane range #JGBS23WEH4WW , oven///solar


No, the gas valve for the oven is electric and requires a complete circuit (ie; igniter, sensors, etc) in order to operate

Feb 15, 2009 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

When i turn on the oven the glow bar light up but seam like no gas is coming out of the burner


It sounds like you have a bad oven igniter. Over time an igniter will age and will not draw enough current to open the gas safety valve. This is why you won't hear any gas flowing. This is actually a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition.

There are two basic types of igniters:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

If you need to replace an igniter, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting ***** holding it to the gas manifold.
7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

If you need further assistance, post back with your questions/concerns. I hope this helps you.

Mar 10, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

New gas valve, new gas smell


CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...

Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.

Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!

To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted.  (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

Oct 09, 2007 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Broiler Works/Oven Doesn't


Jrzy, even though you can see the bake igniter glowing, that doesn't mean it's good. Igniters actually get weak (unlike a light bulb that simply burns out). It's hooked up in series to a safety valve (the valve that allows main gas into the oven) which actually reads the amps flowing through the igniter. If the igniter is weak and the amps are too low, the valve won't open up. Replace your igniter and you'll be cookin' with gas again. Tip---> before you unscrew your old igniter, put a little liquid dish soap on the threads for lubrication. This'll ensure it comes out with no problems.

Sep 14, 2007 | Kenmore 30464 / 30465 / 30469 Gas Single...

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