Question about Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Slide-In Gas Range - White

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Gas oven will not ignite

We replaced the safety valve in the oven and now the oven will not ignite. The igniter comes on but no propane is allowed in. Prior to this, the oven did not ignite and then one day when it did light, it would not shut off until I shut off the valve on the propane tank. Now that the new safety valve is installed, the oven still does not work. Do you have any ideas on what this is caused by? Would the control panel on the top of the stove have anything to do with this or would it be the igniter?

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I would be suspect of the temperature control valve based on your previous experience. I am assuming the safety valve you are speaking of was really a regulator.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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Sears kenmore gas oven - bought a new oven safety valve because the oven ignitor was coming on, but gas valve was not opening. Put new safety valve on, doing same thing, if you tap the valve on top, it...


Hello,

The reason the igniter would come on yet not let the gas flow is because the IGNITER IS WEAK and not drawing the proper power to open the gas valve. Replace the igniter nad the oven will work without having to tap on the valve

GENE

Oct 16, 2011 | Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

Tip

Replacing an Oven Igniter on a Gas Range


This advice is for GAS ovens with glow bar type igniters. This is a fairly simple repair that MOST do-it-yourselfers can accomplish with just a little guidance. But, first, here’s a little gas oven theory to help you better understand how to determine if an igniter is bad:

The way the ignition system in most of today’s ovens work is like this:

  1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
  2. The igniter begins to glow.
  3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
  4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
  5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 – 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.

NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That’s why you typically don’t hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn’t light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it’s an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn’t light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn’t produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won’t light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we’re going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

  1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
  2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
  3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
  4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
  5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
  6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
  7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
  8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
  9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
  10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models. I hope this information is helpful.

on Feb 18, 2008 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Oven won't start


Very interesting. The ignitor is working, so that means you have power and the control is working. The safety valve is working, and you have a complete circuit. So why won' t she fire off? Inside the safety valve is a bi-metal that only opens if the resistance is right. The resistance only changes when the ignitor is on. As it gets hotter it changes in resistance. This allows the gas safety valve to release the gas and ignite. Watch this:

May 07, 2010 | Frigidaire FGF326AS Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven won't ignite


When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven will not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils

Dec 23, 2009 | DCS Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Oven will not light


When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils

Oct 16, 2009 | Magic Chef 31000 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven will not ignite in bake mode. Broil function works.


When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
-- defective selector switch
-- defective gas safety valve
-- defective gas valve coils

Oct 12, 2009 | Maytag MGR5755QDS CleanDesign Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Gas Oven does not work.


Here's the deal about those igniters. They get "weak". See? That safety valve is there to monitor how much current (amps) is flowing through the igniter. Once the correct amperage is satisfied, the safety valve "knows" that the igniter is hot enough to ignite gas so it opens up and allows gas to flow through the manifold.

The reason you can tap the valve to light the gas is that the valve is almost ready to open anyway. You just send it over the top by tapping it. So, the fix for this one is to replace the igniter. All your troubles will be gone then... well... not "all", but the oven will work! Here's the igniter or you can use this one...a universal igniter and cheaper, too!). Hopefully, you have an appliance parts place locally, if not you can get it online.

Hope this helped!

SG


Apr 05, 2009 | Tappan TGF657 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

When i turn on the oven the glow bar light up but seam like no gas is coming out of the burner


It sounds like you have a bad oven igniter. Over time an igniter will age and will not draw enough current to open the gas safety valve. This is why you won't hear any gas flowing. This is actually a designed safety feature that prevents free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition.

There are two basic types of igniters:
Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) – needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) – needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

If you need to replace an igniter, follow these steps:

1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner’s manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn’t shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting ***** holding it to the gas manifold.
7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 – 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.

If you need further assistance, post back with your questions/concerns. I hope this helps you.

Mar 10, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Whirlpool SF365pegq


The way the ignition system in most of today's ovens work is like this:

1. Set the oven or broiler temperature.
2. The igniter begins to glow.
3. Once the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve opens.
4. Gas is introduced into the manifold and you have ignition.
5. NOTE: It can take roughly 30 - 90 seconds from the time you set your oven temp to the time it takes for the gas to ignite.


NOTE: This is a designed safety feature of the oven to prevent free flowing gas from accumulating in your home without ignition. That's why you typically don't hear any gas flowing when you have an igniter problem. You might think you have a gas problem when actually you have an ignition problem.

TWO BASIC IGNITER TYPES:

Carborundum (Cylindrical in shape) - needs to produce 2.5 to 3.0 amps for the gas safety valve to work.
Norton (Rectangular in shape) - needs to produce 3.2 to 3.7 amps for the gas safety valve to work.

NOTE: There is a UNIVERSAL FLAT BAR igniter on the market as well, that can be used as a substitute if the igniter type that came with your range is not available.

An easy way to determine if you may have an igniter problem is to check BOTH your oven features. If the oven doesn't light, check the broiler and vice versa. Since both the BROIL manifold and BAKE manifold are fed from the same gas source, but have separate igniters, it's an easy assumption to make that the igniter may be bad, if one or the other doesn't light.

The igniter typically goes bad in one of two ways, the igniter either stops glowing completely, or becomes weak over time and doesn't produce enough current to open the gas safety valve (in this case the igniter will still glow but the oven still won't light). Longer ignition times can be another symptom of an igniter possibly going bad.

For this solution, however, we're going to assume you have a bad igniter and need to replace it. Follows these steps:

NOTE: The same method applies to both the broiler and bake manifold.

1. UNPLUG the range and turn the gas off if you have a local gas cut-out valve (it is recommended that you do).
2. Open oven door and remove (if possible). Refer to your owner's manual to see if there are instructions on how to remove the oven door. Some have spring-loaded locking hinges, while others just lift out. If you cannot figure out how to remove the oven door, use care not to lean on the door or put too much weight on it. A common complaint following any kind of oven maintenance is that the oven door doesn't shut correctly any longer. This is usually caused by bending the hinges or springs coming loose.
3. Remove the oven racks, and remove the oven pan. (There are usually two screws either in the back or front of the oven holding the pan in place).
4. Remove the Flame Spreader. This is a metal plate on top of the manifold.
5. The igniter will be mounted directly to the gas manifold. Follow the wires that lead to igniter. It will either be plugged into a connector, or be connected together with ceramic wire lugs. Your replacement igniter should come with extra ceramic wire lugs. In the event the plug does not match the one on your range, cut the wires and connect using the ceramic wire lugs. DO NOT use standard wire lugs, they are not heat resistant and will melt.
6. Unplug the old igniter and remove the mounting screw holding it to the gas manifold.
7. Install new igniter on gas manifold using care not to handle the element on the igniter with your hands. The oil from your hands can cause damage and/or premature failure. The igniter is also considered FRAGILE.
8. Reconnect the wires using the recommendations mentioned in Step 5.
9. Plug in the range, turn the gas valve back on and do a visual test by setting the oven temperature to the desired range. Allow 30 - 90 seconds for the igniter to light the gas. Turn oven off and allow sufficient time to cool. If the oven has only been lit for a minute or so, the cool down period will be brief.
10. Reinstall the flame spreader, oven pan, and racks. Reinstall door if necessary.


Most igniters cost around $50. Prices will vary with models.

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Feb 22, 2008 | Whirlpool SF369 Gas Kitchen Range

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