We have two relay light switches that are used on the same lights in our kitchen. They turn on if we keep our fingers pressed on them, but as soon as we let go they automatically dim right back off. I just recently switched out a light bulb to a different fixture in the same room. Could that be part of the problem?
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Your switch has 2 wires, and 2 brass screws, and new switch will have same. Connect either wire to new switch. Connect bare ground wire to green screw. Turn power off, remove screws that hold switch into box, pull out switch, take photo of wiring, install new switch. If wires are pushed into back of switch, then use small screwdriver and push into slot to release wire. http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html
Sounds like the electronics of the motion detector is toast, probably from a voltage surge associated with your power failure. Since you have already used the manual switch, you have already tried the "reboot" option, but here is something else to try (it's a long shot). Turn the manual switch off, remove the light bulbs, turn the switch on for a few seconds, turn it back off, replace the bulbs and try again. Also, in the remote chance that this device uses an electo-mechanical relay (as opposed to all solid-state), the relay may be stuck, you might give it a couple of sharp raps while you have the bulbs out. When you turn it back on (before you put the bulbs back in) you might be able to hear the click of the relay if you go out there and give it some motion to detect. If all this doesn't work, you'll need to replace the unit. They may sell a replacement electronics unit for it. --- good luck.
Using OHMs law,your 60 watt bulp is presently drawing 1/2 amps and most light sockets are rated between 10 and 15 amps,so in theory, unless stated otherwise(usually because of excess heat) It would be able to carry the 3.34 amps of the 5000 watt bulb. No relay wodl be needed. If you were to use a relay, and hook it to the existing light socket it would just be a 110v to 110 vold relay to run to a larger current (Amps) rated bulb socket. If you do that I would look for and obtain a 20 amp rated socket. An alternitive
to the above is just to wire another light socket to a motion sensor switch ,which would turn on when movment was within the garage and turn off based up on your time setting.Both cheaper and less complicated that a relay.
First - I am not a certified electrician but in my 78 years young of dealing with electrical problems sounds like you have three way switch similar to a light switch used on one end of a hallway or bottom of the stairwell with another switch located at the top.
Why they used a 10 amp switch issomething I can't explain other than was the only switch of that STYLE or CLASS.
The relay looks like a relay we used to use in the hospital to control lights from a patientscontrol cnter at the head of the bed and that I believ was manufactured by GE only theose were either 12 or 24 volt coil. the GE had different styles ro circuits.
Have a good Day
The three black wire are as follows: One is the hot wire. One feeds the closet light. One feeds the lights for the kithen and bath. Turn off the power at the circuit breaker or fuse panel and disconnect all three black wires and be sure they aren't touching anything. Turn the power back on and using a test light or meter determine which black wire is live. Turn the power back off and mark the hot wire with a pen, marker, or piece of electrical tape. Connect the wire you marked with a wire nut to one of the other two black wires. Turn the power back on. If the closet light comes on, that is the wire that you want to connect to one of the terminals of the switch. If the lights in the kitchen and bath now work, leave these wires connected together and connect the third wire to one of the switch terminals. Turn the power back off. While the hot wire and the wire for the kitchen might have both connected to the switch terminal, this is no longer allowed by code. Instead take another piece of wire of the same type and connect it to the hot wire and the kitchen wire with the wire nut and connect the other end to the other switch terminal. There should be a green ground screw terminal attached to the metal frame of the switch. Using a green or bare copper wire connect this to the ground wires in the switch box. Reinstall the switch and turn the power back on. Everything should be good now. If the fuse blows or the breaker trips, replace the switch.