Question about GE GSS25SGMBS Side by Side Refrigerator
You posted a reply about a freezer that would not defrost back in 2006 on FixYa. You said to jumper the DEF to the LINE on the board in back of the unit. I found the LINE to be hot and jumped it to the DEF and then tested the blue wire inside the freezer and it was hot. This still did not heat the defrost coil. I took out the coil and jimmy rigged power to test the coil, it got red hot. I reinstalled it, tested the blue wire to make sure it was hot but the heater will still not come on.
GE side by side unit model GSS25SGMD
Hope you have time to reply. Thanks, Dave
Dave, you are throwing me a little here. By jumping line to defrost you should have 120 V. at the heater. J-11 to j-9. Are you measuring voltage? Lets ohm out the circuit. Unplug the refer and disconnect the blue connnector from the main board. Measure between the blue wire on the connector and the orange wire on J-7 pin 9. This is right to the right. You should have approx 22 ohms. If you don't have this the problem lies either in the heater, harness,or defrost T-stat. The Tstat sits on the evaporator, opens at 140 degtrees and closes at 110 degrees. So it should read closed. Let me know how you are doing, Catriver
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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One side of this valve does the water in the door, the other the water for the ice maker
Disregard any reference to water in door if your unit does not have that capability and there will only be ONE solenoid on the inlet water valve assembly.
If the solenoid coil fails it will not open the water source to supply water to the ice maker. This solenoid is only energized for 8 to 10 seconds as the ice maker sweep fingers (Called ejector blades in the manual) reach the 10 - 11 o'clock position during the harvest cycle. All you will hear is a minor buzz and maybe a minor thump of the plastic water line but the ice maker fills during the last 40 % of the harvest cycle.
Here is a manual you can use for troubleshooting:
Note the requirements to test the ice maker using the manual above are:
Door light switch plunger depressed (Taped down) and the freezer temp from 0 - 10 deg F.
You will need to make a jumper wire to jumper terminals T to H inside the ice maker front cover to start the ice maker test. If it cycles with the jumper the thermostat is good. If it does not cycle then either the thermostat has failed or... there is no power coming from the door light switch. (Bad door switch)
If all of the system tests pass and you still do not have water.... suspect the inlet water valve (pictured above) or the water supply as the source of the problem.
More often than not.... the real problem turns out to be ice build up on the evaporator coils due to an automatic defrosting problem. Should you discover a build up of ice on your evaporator coils do a MANUAL defrost session by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. (Makes a water mess so be ready!) After the manual defrosting return the unit to normal service. You should have ice again within 12 hours. Keep an eye on the evaporator coils for the next 5 days because if you do have an automatic defrosting problem the symptom WILL return in a matter of 2 - 4 days. If the ice block returns.... have the automatic defrosting problem corrected to keep your ice maker working normally.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
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