Question about Brother XL3750 Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Bottom thread is too loose

I am just learning to quilt. I have the tension set on 4, the width is between 1 & 2, the length is at 3. I have been using this setting for 3 days and all is good. Today the bottom thread is loose. The settings have been changed, I have rethread the machine several times, checked the bobbin. What is going on. The top tread is fine, just the bottom.

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Try filping you bobbin around the other way and change out your needle

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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I am using the walking foot for a quilting project that I am working on, however, the bottom stitching is just looping and can just be pulled away from the fabric.


Be sure you are using a brand new needle.

Remove the thread from the machine.

ALWAYS RAISE THE PRESSER FOOT and rethread the upper thread from the beginning. Make sure the thread path is correct.

Verify the bobbin is installed and turning the correct direction in the bobbin case and that the bobbin thread is threaded through the bobbin tension mechanism.

Set the upper tension to the midway point between high & low number--this may require some adjustment for your particular machine.

Pull the bobbin thread to the top of your sewing project before beginning to stitch.
How and Why to Bring up the Bobbin Thread

Re-test your machine on a scrap quilt sandwich (make sure the walking foot is installed correctly and that the presser foot is lowered when beginning to stitch).

Consult the owner's manual for instructions for presser foot pressure. The pressure may need to be adjusted because you are dealing with a sandwich that is thicker than regular fabric.

You may also try changing the type and size sewing machine needle you are using. Using a Top Stitch or Microtext needle will help the needle to penetrate the fabric sandwich easier. A Top Stitch needle has a larger groove to protect the thread as it pierces the fabric which helps prevent looping.

Also, verify the thread is not too small for the needle's eye.

All About Needles

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0ahUKEwil1tu2mb3PAhVR6mMKHUlvB_4QFggoMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.schmetzneedles.com%2Flearning%2Fpdf%2Fschmetz-needle-chart.pdf&usg=AFQjCNHTR52AmqwzvyCjbXmD5Ch52Va5_Q&cad=rja

Oct 02, 2016 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

I need help in good tension for rolled hem in empisal 606D overlocker


Your owner's manual should have instructions for rolled hem settings. My Bernina manual has a the following settings:
Medium weight fabric
80/12 Universal needle
3 cones serger thread
Upper looper 3-5
Lower looper 7-9
Left needle (no thread)
Right needle 3-5
Stitch length 1-1.5
Cutting width 2-3
Differential feed N

Can use woolly thread in the upper looper, but the tension may need to be loosened since the woolly nylon thread will stretch.


Make It Handmade Threading Your Serger or Overlocker

...

Dec 19, 2015 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

How do I get the stitch length to be consistent? It changes with speed


consistent stitch length depends primarily on tension settings. there are 2 different tension settings on all machines. 1. upper thread tension. 2. bobbin thread tension. since these work together to create the correct stitch length+width, having either of these adjusted inappropriately can significantly impair stitch quality. "knowing' your machine has a lot to do with knowing how tight or loose the tension should be for BOTH settings. the settings will be different for each type of stitch, for each type of needle used, and for each type of thread used, meaning tensions will need to be re-adjusted after each change. in other words, the setting for a medium-width zig-zag with a size 10 needle using mercerized cotton thread to sew light-weight canvas will be completely different than the settings for a regular straight stitch using a size 8 ball tip needle using polyester thread to sew silky lingerie material.

Jun 14, 2014 | Brother PC-420

1 Answer

I have the Brother 2600i sewing machine and am having problems with the blind hem stitch being too loose on the top & bottom. I currently have it on the 2 setting for stitch length, 4 for stitch width...


I would put my tension at 3, length at 2 and 3-5 for width. Make sure that your machine is actually on the blind hem stitch pattern, If this does not work, call Brother at 1-877-276-8437 and have them tell you where to take it, if they cannot guide you through it. I hope that you are under warranty, or that you can return it, if there is a mechanical problem.

Dec 28, 2010 | Brother XL-2600I

1 Answer

Pfaff varimatic 6091 sew a rag quilt with jean and flannel,I can't get my tension right it seems to be funny on the bottom stitch,where shoulf the top tension be set at 4 1/2 ,when do I adjust the bobbin...


Hi! The bobbin tension rarely needs to be adjusted. First, make sure you're using the appropriate size needle and thread for your fabric (I'd probably use either a 'denim' needle or a universal size 14) and also that the upper thread and bobbin are threaded absolutely correctly. These can throw off the tension! Also, take the time to clean out the bobbin area. That can throw your stitch off also.

If the stitch on the bottom is loose, so that you see the top threads, then the top tension is too loose. If the top stitch is too loose and you see the bobbin threads on top, then the top tension is too tight.

It helps to thread the machine with different color thread on top and in the bobbin, and then stitch an inch or so on the same type of fabric as you're using in your quilt. Check the stitch. If you need to adjust the top tension, make sure the pressure foot is down! Adjust a little, stitch a few inches, and check again. Repeat until you don't see any (or very little) bobbin thread on the top or top thread on the bottom.

If you go through all these steps, and the bobbin thread is still loose (and you've tightened up the top tension), then there is a tiny little screw on the side of the bobbin case that you can use to adjust the bobbin tension. Turn the screw just a little bit (less than a quarter turn), stitch, check, etc. Once the bobbin tension is set, you shouldn't ever have to change it.

Let me know if this helps, ok?

Happy sewing!




Feb 10, 2010 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Settings for stippling freesia 425


Lower feed dogs. Turn on Needle Down. Presser foot pressure on Darning setting. Don't forget to lower the presser foot lever. That's about it! Since you are going to be the feed dogs, it doesn't really matter if you have a stitch length set or not, but do have width set for "0". The spring loaded darning/embroidery/quilting foot is the best for stippling, but try it with any open toe foot you may have. Do a few samples first using the threads you intend using on your project because the tensions might need tweaking. Try to get the result you like by adjusting only the top thread tension. If you really have to adjust the bobbin too, put a small mark on the bobbin case where the "normal" position of the screw is so you can return to that when you are done quilting.

Jan 31, 2010 | Husqvarna Freesia 425

1 Answer

How can I use this machine as a MERROW machine ?


For best results, use Maxi-Lock cone thread.
Remove the left needle.
Slide the stitch forming finger towards you, away from where the stitch forms.
Set the stitch length to around 1.
Set the needle tension 4 or 5.
Set the upper looper tension at 4.
Set the lower looper tension at 7.
Adjust the stitch width, if needed.

Jan 24, 2010 | Juki MO-644D Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

Janome 1600P


My husband and I worked for months trying to solve this problem and FINALLY we did it. I even had a YLI varigated thread in the top and Coats and Clark varigated in the bobbin. The machine Janome 1600P DB makes a beautiful stitch. This is a long posting and if you have questions I'll be happy to help if I can. together425@pennswoods.net
1) I give credit to piecemealquilts.wordpress.com for their recommendations.
Most of which I list below.
2) First of all make sure that the frame is level in all directions, side-to-side, top to bottom. That includes the table that it is setting on.
3) Bobbin tension: This is much looser than you normally have it set on. The bobbin should fall steadily to the floor. Read your machine manual to learn how to loosen the tension. Be sure to go in small increments. Don't be afraid. It also helps to use a different color thread in the bobbin than the top to see the problem. Is the bobbin properly inserted into the bobbin case. Is the bobbin case properly inserted into the machine?
4)Use the correct needle for your machine.
5) Use at least a 14 and a 16 or 18 is even better. Size 20 for specialty threads if you can get a size that large.
6) Make sure that the needle is inserted properly. My machine doesn't have a flat side so proper insertion is challenging. If you can find a straight pin small enough to fit in the eye do so as this helps to determine if the needle is in at the correct angle. The eye of my needle is left to right so I use a sturdy piece of thread, some spray starch on the thread helps it to stay straight. This makes it much easier to determine if the needle is in properly.
7) The pressure foot dial is set on 0
8) The stitch length is set on the longest stitch length. I know that you actually determine the stitch length and some people tell you to have it set on 0, but I found this to work.
9)Threading: Make sure you have the machine threaded correctly. Inoticed that when my thread was breaking that the thread in the take uplever was either out of the thread guides or had crossed each other. Also, sometimes the thread had wrapped itself around the first smallthread guide and/or the outside hole on the pretension thread guide hadwrapped around the bottom of the thread guide. When your thread breaks pull a good 12" out and then cut it off assometimes it has frayed higher up. This will help to reduce continuedbreakage and your frustration. This sounds dumb but still make sure the thread is sitting on the spool properly, that the thread spills off the spool as shown in your machine manual. I found it helpful to place a felt pad underneath the spool of thread. This was just a scrap of felt with a hole cut into it. Check the retractable thread guide which is right over your spool that it is correctly positioned and not twisted around. The thread should easily pull off the spool. I found that my machine worked better if I onlythreaded the two guide holes closest to the machine on the pretension guide.
10)Thread tension: I found that my needle tension had to be much looser than what I was used to anywhere from 1 -3.
11)The quilt: Not too tight and not too loose,too tight and needles and thread break, too loose and it's difficult to move the carriage. Can you poke a finger from the bottom and grip it from the top? I found this a little too loose, but used it as a guide. The side clamps are to keep it straight and not tight.
12)The take up rail should just barely clear the bed of the machine. I found it more accurate to check this with the machine in the middle of the quilt as opposed to one of the ends. Can you fit your fingers between the quilt and the machine bed? Yes, but barely is the answer.
13) I was able to quilt in both directions, but make sure your carriage moves freely in all directions.
14) Make sure the feed dogs are down and ready for free motion.
15) Make sure the presser foot is down and ready for sewing.
16) Check both the bobbin area and the top thread tension area for stray threads. It happens.
17) My last help was to add thread lubricant, but make sure your machine allows it. I just found out that you shouldn't use this on the spool if you have plastic tension discs. Mine are metal, but still I use this sparingly. I run a couple of lines on the spool, let it sit for a few minutes then sew. I don't repeat this for at least an hour of constant sewing.
18) Strangely this also helped, every so often I pulled straight out on both the knobs of the pretension disc and the tension disc. Don't pull the knobs off. This just released the tension of the thread. I didn't adjust it, I just pulled straight out. I didn't rethread it, just released it.

19) Finally, I did discover that I had a burr on my tension disc.How to figure this out, well it works better with two people, but one can do it. Lift up the presser foot, needle is in the highest position, then manually , slowly pull the thread through the needle, listen to the tension disc. You shouldn't hear anything. Watch the tension disc, does the check spring move down? Does it stay down then bounce back up? It shouldn't. Feel the thread as it is being pulled does it have tension on it? If the answer to these questions is yes, take it to the shop and let them fix it. It literally takes 5 mins.

I hope this helps

Oct 04, 2008 | Janome 1600P-DB Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Instructions for threading Baby lock eclipse BLE1LX for 2 thread sergering


I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at knowgodnofear@bex.net

Aug 10, 2008 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

Tension issue


If you set the tension from 3of 4 to 1 you actually lowered the tension. To increase the tension you must set the tension to 6 or higher. Be carefull not the set the bobbin case tension to tight as this will also have negative results

If suggest the following: First lower the bobbin case tension, half a turn. Then increase the top tension to 6 and see if there is any difference.

If you do this systematically you should rectify your problem.

Good Luck

Jan 21, 2008 | Kenmore 12102

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