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Re: oven stopped working
No, that is a top burner valve. Most likely the igniter is bad, part # 12400035. The only way to test it is with an ammeter; it must draw a minimum of 3.3 amps to cause the valve to open. Oven valve part # 7501P133-60. These go bad as well, but not nearly as often. If you are going to take a risk, try the igniter first. Available for $40 at www.timerking.com and elsewhere. Hope this helps!
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even though the ignitor glows it doesn't mean it's good it opens the gas valve by amps not just because it glows,if you turn on the stove and when you see it glow if the flame doesn't ignite within 40 to 50 seconds you have a bad ignitor.if you leave it alone for a few minutes does the flame ignite?the only other thing it could be is a bad gas valve but most likely it will be the ignitor
The problem with your oven is that ignitor is weak and not drawing enough amprage to open the gas valve, the gas you smell was since the ignitor does come on it allowed the gas valve to open a wee bit but since ignitor is weak it wont allow gas valve to open fully. I know you going to doubt that what i'm telling you is correct, i base my diagnosis on my 30 years experience as a appliance repair technician.Replace ignitor and enjoy your baked meal
With the glow bar going and no gas smell that means you have a good circuit from control to valve and glow bar. For that glow bar to work it must change in resistance. If it is weak it won't change enough resistance to make the gas valve bi-metal open. Also the gas safety valve does not come preset and usually is bottomed out all the way for propane. You must adjust the orifice to aprox the same height as the old one to get the propah gas output for natural gas.
if your old valve did not leak and has continuity between the terminals it is fine. The ignitor/glowbar is weak. If it is dim orange that is usually a way to tell. Bumping the stove makes the bi-metal come on also is a sign of a weak glowbar
you have a lazy ignitor,you should be able to see the ignitor glow or reflecting,if you can't see this you'll have to remove the floor or if there's a bottom draw or panel but anyway when you can see the ignitor start the oven,if it takes longer than 40 seconds to ignite the flame change out the ignitor.
Gas shut off valve handles are perpendicular to the gasline when closed and parallel when opened. If you are referring to the appliance regulator behind the stove, the lever should face up or out, as opposed to sideways. This particular lever only shuts gas down to the oven and not the stovetop. Let us know if you need more assistance.
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. Without a model number we are pretty much shooting from the hip here. Having said that it takes all of the following to make the oven burner light:
1. Gas pressure to the gas valve and good solenoids (2 ea) 2. Power to Oven control and selector knob set above min temp 3. Over Temp sensor closed 4. Temp control "thermocouple or thermistor" functional 5. A functioning ignitor
So if you have power to the unit... and we assume the oven control is working.. suspects are:
a. Open ignitor b. Open flame sensor c. Open over temp sensor d. Thermocouple or thermistor (depending on model) e. Open coil on gas valve
Determining which of the above has failed is performed with an Ohm Meter.
If there is more that we can do for you just respond here.
I was once told it was 3 to 4 amps but most techs just replace the ignitor and test the machine for 3 or 4 cycles. if it does not fix the problem then we change the valve. It's hard to put your amp probe in the oven that is going to start shooting out a flame.
Most techs can look at how the ignitor is glowing and tell if it's bad or good by how bright it glows.
As always make sure you unplug the machine befor changing a part.
if the ignitor is not a brite red than it is not putting out the 3.5 amp's neaded to open valve.you can check the valve with a continueaty meter.remove the two wire's from the valve and check valve with meter,if valve check's good than ignitor is bad.