I have this problem,my infinity amp lost power to the sub this
morning and has worked a few times since, but the protection light is
on now. it stays on for 5 seconds, goes off, then on again for 5
seconds continuously like that. if i disconnect the speaker cables for
the sub, the amp clicks.
i have the power going to a power cap, then to 2x amps(1 for front
speakers and the problem one for the sub) so it cant be the main power
cable.if there was no power,the light wouldnt be on right? the earth is
the same place as the working amp,using the same bolt into the cars
metal.same remote turn on cable too. im stumped!
it's happened before, but with no assistance, started working again!
Overload maybe. If the amp is run at an improper impedence, the amp will shut down. If you are "CLIPPING" speakers / subwoofers the light will blink to indicate a hard clip . Example: 4ohm/2ohm stable amp with 4 ohm subs wired at 1 ohm.
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Check the impedance of the speaker set up. Reasons for going in to protection mode is that amp can't handle the impedance... Just incase you don't know what impedance means, it is another way of saying ohms!
sounds like ur gains are set to high and is going into protect mode
also what ive seen happen before is the speakers (if mounted in metal shelf or door and arnt bolted down correctly can flex under bass notes and flex the speaker that much the termanls short onto the metal and amp hits protect mode
(rare but worth a look if you think u have elimanted most other things Had a dude come to me when i was working in sydney with this problem )
also could be things like clipping protection , overheat protection ,amp drawing to much current from the alternator
do your lights dim when you hit the bass notes ?
get back to me and im sure we could solve this problem
Your subs will share the amp output. And if you are not careful, you'll end up blowing them. The amp puts out 1300 watts RMS at 2ohms, the subs have an RMS power range of from 75-350 watts, and you'll be driving them with 650 watts each. A better power match would be to series the subs to present an 8ohm final load. This will reduce the output power to a level the subs can handle. Or you could buy 2 more 12.1's and connect them series-parallel for a 4ohm load and each sub would still be getting 325 watts RMS, just about the maximum they are rated to handle.
Hope this helps.
Does it happen at all volume levels?
What is the gain setting on the sub amp?
Have you checked for 12V @ remote turn on after problem occurs?
Sounds as if the remote turn on relay inside the amplifier is losing signal, or has become damaged. If the protection light does not light up, the problem is not thermal, shorting, or high/low voltage.
The amplifier is in need of repair. This is not an end-user fix. Looking at about $50 to repair.
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I have an Infinity amp as well, and I was having the same issue for a time. The amp is protecting itself from some sort of overload. It could be the Ohms load on the sub, but I would guess not. Make sure your low pass filter is set to LP and not HP or Flat. Then check the RMS on your subs and match that to the Amp RMS. Once I did all that I found that everything worked fine, for a time. It started doing this again, and I checked the fuse and it was blown badly. It seems that the fuse setup on some of these Infinity amps is not as good as one would hope, because the charge was bridging the gap and frying out my fuses. It was like a spark would jump from one side of the fuse to the other without travelling the fuse itself, and this was causing my protect issues. I pulled the fuse, got a new one of the same rating, but I placed the fuse in with a little piece of rubber in between the 2 contacts, and then connected to the fuse block. I have not had problems since.
The easiest thing to test is to try swapping the connections of the front component speakers at the amp connections. If the problem follows the speakers, the issue is probably with the speakers. I would triple check (again) the speaker wire connections. It's also possible the crossover for the driver side component speakers has an issue (thus why the tweeter worked for a while).
If the problem stays on the drivers side, the issue is probably with that channel on the amp. Triple check the RCA connections for that channel.
It's much easier to test other speakers on an amp channel versus trying to check it with a meter.
If the driver's door is "abused" often, my initial thought is the wiring at the speaker or the wiring in the speaker (to voice coil, within the crossover, etc) is the most likely culprit.
this problem sound like you have too low of power going to your amp, test your battery and make sure its putting out enough power for at least the mininum amount of power that your amp requires, you can find that information in your manual or sometimes they post it on the amp itself. i hope this info helps