Bobby pin stuck in washing machine - high pitch noise during spin
I know it's this problem because i paid 150 bucks to find out last time. the guy came and took off the front of the machine undid the tubing and pulled a couple bobby pins out. I'd like to try it myself but i can't figure out how to get the front of the machine off. i can open the top but the front seems to be screwed in several places and i don't even know how to get to some of the screws. is there an easier way. my machine is a maytag atlantis.
Re: bobby pin stuck in washing machine - high pitch noise...
I just had this exact issue and was able to solve it myself. I thought I was in for a $300-400 fix. It sounded like the bearings or transmission was going out it was so loud.
My first clue was from the bobby pins **** in the stainless wash tub. The first thing I would do is put a 2x4 underneath the front to prop it up and pull the belt off. Spin the three wheels down there and see if they're all smooth. In my case the water pump did not spin smooth, something was wrong.
To get to the water pump, you need to take a putty knife to push the clips in the top, one on either side and the whole top will prop open. Next there are two bolts you need to unscrew and the front will slide out. The water pump will be on the front right. You need to take a large plyers or vice grips and squeeze the clamps to pull the two hoses off (keep a towel handy because there's probably water in them yet too). Pull the hoses off and now you should be able to have access to the 3 x 10mm bolts the hold on the water pump. Pull the pump out and inspect that there isn't any thing obstructing the impeller blades. In my case two bobby pins were wedged in there making the racket. I was able to take a real long needle nose plyers and pull them out.
Putting it all back together is reverse of what is above.
Whew! thought I was going to be out some bucks for the repair tech coming out! Hopefully someone else finds this usefull!
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Please be very careful, electricity and water don't mix. With that said try checking the hoses and make sure the hose clamps are secure. I have a Whirlpool washer and have had this problem among several other assorted problems. Glad I took out a service contract it more then paid for itself in the last two years.
This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model FRONT LOADERS displaying the “F20” error code. "F20" is a No Water Detect error.It is an indication that you either have no water coming into the washer, or very little water at all. If the pressure switch has not tripped after 6 minutes, the error code is displayed.This can be a potential problem with the following:
If you have NO water in the wash tub, check the following: - Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary. - Make sure water taps are on. - Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions:
- Verify Drain Pump operation. - Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. - Verify wire harness connections at the pressure switch, inlet valves, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free.The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer.Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running.Click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r385845-checking_drain_pump_in_whirlpool_duet To access the Pressure Switch – remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer.With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off.The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear.It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a plastic air hose attached.Verify the electrical connections are intact, and the air hose is attached and not cracked or leaking. To access the Central Control Unit (CCU) – with the top panel of the washer removed, the CCU is located directly behind, and just above the rear of the wash tub.There should be a tech sheet directly behind the lower panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls.Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics and to verify the wire connections at the CCU.In addition, the tech sheet will also assist in how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
I hope this helpful. Please refer to my profile and use the “Ask Me” feature if you require additional assistance.
Just had the same problem last night; I took off the back and noticed that the 'shock absorber' was broken. http://www.partstore.com/Part/Electrolux/Frigidaire/fwt449gfs1/Electrolux/Frigidaire/134564200/New.aspx
Mine was too doing the same thing every now and then it would work depending if i changed the cycles around. I finnally pulled it out to where i could work on it. pulled off the back plate bottom was still partly full of water so tiped it on its side. undid the black hose going from the bottom of the drum. Undid the screw that tightens the clamp this is the fatter part of the black hose , inside this hose is a tube u can slip out it was right full, im gussing it was the filter. Put it back together and works fine now.
Hi, it is the pressure switch aka water level sensor. OE is overflow
error. Pressure switch is located under top cover on front right hand
side. It is round and has a rubber tube leading down to the drum and a
electrical connection to the board. Paid maytag man to
diagnose/install cost me about $150.
There is a recall on the circuit board for certain Maytag Neptune washers. See the link below:
Called my repair guy, who is always helpful. He told me if it wasn't the motor coupler it was the transmission. He said he could rebuild it for around 80-150$, in my opinoin he is a good honest person, never does me or the many people I know any wrong. He said their was no telling how long it would last. I have a family of 5, the washer is almost 10. I went out and bought a new one. My parts guy recomended I buy the same brand Whirlpool, with a direct drive motor. I took his advice and got a new one with the same type of motor. I stripped down the old one, kept the motor, dog ears, motor coupler, and the water pump. Hopefully those parts will save me some money. The dog ears and motor coupler, I just replaced them within the last couple weeks. My parts guy always says "lighten up them loads" and it is good advice as I always replace dog ears every 6 mos. But at 8$ a pair it's an easy fix. Having a reliable parts man, who explains how to fix everthing- PRICELESS. Anybody in SE Michigan should stop by Richard Bros. Appliance in Riverview, MI, they do service calls as well. Thanks-Scott
Try getting the new whirlpool affresh washer tablets. They clean the mold and are supposed to make everything in the washer smell better and keep it clean. They are only around 10 bucks and is worth a shot to clean your smelly drain.
no chances are its hte motor coupling again , fairly common part to go bad. and the clucth(mounted atop the trannsmissin ) would have no affect on the agitation of the machine.simplew enough for you to cange probly 20 bucks vs 150 to have done part number 285753a. new part has a metal insert making it even stronger!!!!!
I had the repair guys out 3 months ago maytag paid for labor I paid $150 for seal and bearings, tub froze and belt broke. the tub now is making the loud screams that others complain about I contacted maytag and reapir servce and talked with the tech. this machine is a piece of S$%^ the seal fails on a regular basis and bearings get water in them. I just missed my 3 month waranty and will not pay for that repair again. people at home depot agree that this machine is trouble. the machine must be taken completely down from the top to replace the bearings and or the belt. the tub must be removed. If you call maytag they will pay for the labor but not the parts.