- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
see this causes and fix it. God bless you Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged
in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses
two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if
only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of
the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit
breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of
special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No
continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The
proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on
the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common
reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element is easy to replace. Check our videos for other types of dryer heating elements.
Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover.
The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black
resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and
made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower
housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it.
Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for
obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and easy to replace.
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at
the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still
tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially
defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose
connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Your heating element needs to be replaced, or the 240 breaker in your breaker box has tripped. I was a maytag technician for several years...So, check your breaker box for any tripped breakers or the heating element in the dryer needs to be replaced, or the t.stat for the element has blown.
Disconnect the heater thermostats by poulling a wire off each stat, and then try it, if it still trips, then could be faulty motor.
The stats are located at the rear of the dryer, behind removeable cover.
Double check the circuit breaker for the dryer (Electric Neptune). Turn it off, then turn it back on. Its possible that the breaker may have tripped for some reason, but wasn't able to trip all the way.
Does the interior of the dryer get warm at all? You could have a 1 of multiple heating elements that has shorted. If no heat at all, the likely a heating element has opened up. Unplug dryer from wall (turn off circuit breaker first!). Use a ohm meter to measure and check continuity of the heating elements.
There may also be a sail switch in the air path of the dryer. The purpose of the sail switch is to keep the elements turned off until there is enough air blowing through the dryer. This helps prevent fires, as well as shrunken denim.
Common faults - 1 Theheating elementscan fail (meaning open circuit) 2 There arecut-outs (T.O.C's)that might need resetting 3 Thethermostats (stats)can trip out or burn out (meaning open
circuit) 4 Modern
tumble dryers also have sensors andpcb's (Printed circuit
have programs that can fail and circuitry although most should produce an error
code showing you were the fault is. 5 Faulty
connections and burned wires may also be the fault.
You-Tube video "sfGInKA3yp8" placeholder (do not delete)
most likely, there is a blockage in your exhaust. take it apart and check every inch from your dryer to the outdoors. i clean mine once a year, it keeps the dryer running efficiently. when lint backs up in there, the heat cannot get out and there is a sensor that will shut off the heating element when it gets to a certain temp, so your clothes will take a long time to dry
it sounds to me like the heating element that heats up to dry the clothes has gone faulty or tripped out. Cant really tell from here.. when you open the drier is there a good level of heat ? If not, its the heating element section at fault.
Your condenser unit on the front bottom left corner may be clogged up and causing water to back up around the fan and heating element behind the rear panel.
Take condenser unit out and give it a good clean removing as much fluff as possible.
If the heating element senses damp on it, then it will trip the electric.
The back panel which is at 45 degree angle on back. I took this off and sure enough there was water in there.
Wipe away all water and use an ever so slightly damp cloth to remove as much dust stuck to the metal as possible.
I used a hair dryer for about ten minutes fanning over the heating element and circular fan. Don't rush this. Take your time to make sure all signs of damp have been removed from heating element before putting the back panel back on.
After carrying out the above my machine worked fine and no longered trip electric.
It is a pain, but to prevent this problem happening I suggest cleaning condenser unit about once a week if you have alot of washing. Empty water panel after every two loads, maximum.