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Electric stove lights work but nothing else

Stove surface lights work but the burners and oven doesn't replaced the power block for cord thats not it what else could it be

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Re: electric stove lights work but nothing else

Sounds like the range is not getting 240 volts. When it only gets 120 volts lights will work but no heating element will. You need a volt meter and make sure that you have 240 volts across the black and red wires. From black to white and from red to white you should have 120. If you find you have a voltage problem you need to check your fuse box. you could have a fuse out or a circuit breaker can also be bad

Posted on Jul 25, 2007

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I have a Jenn-Air JES9900 range and the right front burner is not working but the hot indicator light remains on. Is this just a switch that needs to be replaced?

make this test and fix it. God bless you

Surface Element Switch

If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

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Surface Element Board

If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

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Coil Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

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Radiant Surface Element

The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

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Solid Surface Element

If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

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Element Receptacle and Wire Kit

If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem in the element receptacle. The surface element plugs onto a terminal block type receptacle. Over time the terminals in the receptacle can have a bad connection and overheat. Look at the receptacle contacts with a flashlight. If the terminals look burnt you will need to replace the element receptacle. also make sure the element prongs are clean and not burnt. If the prongs are burnt bad the element will need to be replaced also.

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Loose or Burnt Wire Connection

If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.

Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

Nov 04, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

No heat from burners or oven after relocating stove

Hi Ron - From what you have described if neither the burners nor oven turns on make sure the electrical connecting is 240V. The oven light and clock portions only required 115V. The clock and oven light working may indicate an electrical circuit breaker supplying the range is tripped or a fuse is blown. Confirm household circuit is correct and the range cord is properly wired to the terminal block.

Sep 16, 2012 | Frigidaire Gallery GLEFM397DS Electric...

2 Answers

Broiler burns but the bottom burner on the stove will not come on the glow igniter turns orange but the burner doesn't light also one eye doesn't light, the striker sparks but the burner...



The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both.
if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time

FOR THE SURFACE BURNER NOT LIGHTING The holes on the burner espically those around where the electrode are dirty/clogged. By using a paper clip/safety pin to push in and clear the holes then clean the burner up with some steel wool the burner should light. GENE

Aug 29, 2011 | Maytag PGR5710 Performa Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Frigidaire Glass Top Stove - Model #FEF668CJ5C The

Check your incoming power for 240 volts and your circuit breaker.
Check the cord where it attaches to the back of the range. If they are OK,look for a loose or broken wire.
There are no fuses in-line with the surface burners.

Jul 10, 2010 | GE JBP65 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Electric range burners and oven element just stopped working. Burner indicator light came on and oven temp setting displays correctly. Clock went into set mode automatically, though. Burner came back on...

check the power behind the stove, the outlet for 220 volts, i just fix one with the same problem, it was getting 110 volts but not the 220 volts. so there was nothing wrong with the stove but with the power source.when the stove indicator lights work and the clock, it means that only 110 volts are coming to the stove.

Dec 10, 2008 | GE JBP24 QuickClean Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Replaced element, oven is still not heating

You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.

The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.

Feb 20, 2008 | Frigidaire FEF352 Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

GE Spectra range

All of the items you mention that do work, are 120 volt items.
All the items that do NOT work are 220 volt items.
Sounds like you have a voltage problem, you will need to use a meter to check if you have 220 volts a/c to the outlet the stove plugs into. Take care when doing the following, you will be around live voltage and could get hurt. If you are uncomfortable working with a live circuit best to call someone in to do it for you. Check for 220v at the outlet for the stove (where the stove plugs into), if you have it there, go to where the cord attaches to the stove and check at that point. You should have either a 3 or 4 wire cord on the stove, On the rear of the stove there is a terminal block that the cord is fastened to. Between RED and BLACK you should have 220v, between RED and WHITE and BLACK and WHITE you should see 120v. Another thing to check is that the nuts holding the wires from the cord to the terminal block on the stove are turned down tight. A loose connection there will give you the same problem you have as well.

Jan 07, 2008 | GE Spectra JBP78 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

No heat at burners or oven

check your fuse / breaker box make sure you have power (sounds like you dropped a leg of power) make sure breakers/fuse is on/good flip it to off the to on if oven don't work then take a look at the cord to the range check power at the wall then open where cord goes into range check power or you may even find the cord burnt in there if so replace all damaged wires good luck

Dec 21, 2007 | GE JBP82 Electric Kitchen Range

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