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Cozy wall heater working intemittently

One night our cozy wall furnace (w355f) stopped working. Being a guy, I tapped on the gas valve (not the shut off valve) and the heater started working again. Problem repeated so I replaced the gas valve. worked fine for a while (days) then problem repeated. Replaced the pilot generator (even though no problem with pilot staying lit). Same thing -- Worked for a while tapping the valve got it working then it stopped again. But then the burner started cutting out. When it came on, it would stay on for 3-4 seconds then off. Not being too many more parts to replace, I replaced the thermostat. Initially it would cycle fine as the t'stat was adjusted. Now, we're back to the intermittant working and the burner cutting out......HELP!!!!! I'm thinking the only piece left to replace is the burner assembly otherwise one of the new parts are bad

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  • ro2629 Feb 21, 2009

    I have a Cozy wall heater also, replaced thermastat with new white rogers only to find out that thermastat isn't the problem..Cost $200.00. Tech had to come out again, this time states that it is the gas valve that needs to be replaced, low flame,,,cost an additonal $174.00 . Could this truly be the problem or I'm I just getting ripped off? Yes, I am a woman and trying to find an answer and someone honest to deal wiith.


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Sounds like a limit switch is tripping.
This appliance is equipped with a manual reset blocked
flue switch designed to protect against a blocked flue condition,
which would cause combustion products to spill back into the
living quarters. NOTE: A partially blocked, inadequate, or
disconnected vent system may not activate the switch.
Discoloration of the grille is an indication of a bad vent. If this
occurs, the vent can be checked by a qualified serviceman using
a draft gauge. After 15 minutes the gauge should read between
-.02 up to -.04 inches w.c. Vent must be checked at the
beginning of each heating season.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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What is going on with my furnace? When the burner comes on there is a knocking sound coming from the boiler area which continues as long as the burner is firing and continues for 30 seconds after.

knocking in systems is from fluid hammer in the pipes
It can be controlled in the first instance by the proper mounting of the pipes in the saddles ( more saddles the better --- less chance for the pipe to hit the wall or brackets )
The "hammer" occurs when a valve is opened and fluid stats to flow then the valve is shut off rapidly . the fluid is still flowing and so it hits that valve and the pressure builds up in the pipe ( knock) the valve is again opened reducing the pressure in the pipe only to shut off quickly again making the pressure again build up ( knock)
The are devices called accumulators available fro good plumber suppliers shops , that have a gas filled bladder in the unit
When the valve shuts off quickly , the flow of the fluid is absorbed against the gas filled bladder and then released when then valve is again turned on
this smooths out the stop/start action of the fluid and so stops the hammer or knock
The noise should be treated seriously as it will loosen of fittings and joints causing leaks and if extreme , will split pipes
As an example of what I am talking about take your garden hose and fit a stop hand piece to the end of the hose . turn the tap on , you will see the hose move as the water pressure builds up in the hose
press the trigger and see the hose relax
stop the flow quickly and again see the hose react
That relaxing and reaction of the hose is water hammer or knocking but you won't hear it in a hose , but with rigid pipes the action comes out as a vibration , like a drum being hit

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Here is the reasoning behind this. If your refrigerator, water heater or anything else gas was turned on while the gas valve was off the pressure left the line. When you turned the gas back on there was a rush that let the over sensitive safety valve kick out.

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Hope this helps and please remember to grade me.......thanks again

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