One night our cozy wall furnace (w355f) stopped working. Being a guy, I tapped on the gas valve (not the shut off valve) and the heater started working again. Problem repeated so I replaced the gas valve. worked fine for a while (days) then problem repeated. Replaced the pilot generator (even though no problem with pilot staying lit). Same thing -- Worked for a while tapping the valve got it working then it stopped again. But then the burner started cutting out. When it came on, it would stay on for 3-4 seconds then off. Not being too many more parts to replace, I replaced the thermostat. Initially it would cycle fine as the t'stat was adjusted. Now, we're back to the intermittant working and the burner cutting out......HELP!!!!! I'm thinking the only piece left to replace is the burner assembly otherwise one of the new parts are bad
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Re: cozy wall heater working intemittently
Sounds like a limit switch is tripping. This appliance is equipped with a manual reset blocked flue switch designed to protect against a blocked flue condition, which would cause combustion products to spill back into the living quarters. NOTE: A partially blocked, inadequate, or disconnected vent system may not activate the switch. Discoloration of the grille is an indication of a bad vent. If this occurs, the vent can be checked by a qualified serviceman using a draft gauge. After 15 minutes the gauge should read between -.02 up to -.04 inches w.c. Vent must be checked at the beginning of each heating season.
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knocking in systems is from fluid hammer in the pipes
It can be controlled in the first instance by the proper mounting of the pipes in the saddles ( more saddles the better --- less chance for the pipe to hit the wall or brackets )
The "hammer" occurs when a valve is opened and fluid stats to flow then the valve is shut off rapidly . the fluid is still flowing and so it hits that valve and the pressure builds up in the pipe ( knock) the valve is again opened reducing the pressure in the pipe only to shut off quickly again making the pressure again build up ( knock)
The are devices called accumulators available fro good plumber suppliers shops , that have a gas filled bladder in the unit
When the valve shuts off quickly , the flow of the fluid is absorbed against the gas filled bladder and then released when then valve is again turned on
this smooths out the stop/start action of the fluid and so stops the hammer or knock
The noise should be treated seriously as it will loosen of fittings and joints causing leaks and if extreme , will split pipes
As an example of what I am talking about take your garden hose and fit a stop hand piece to the end of the hose . turn the tap on , you will see the hose move as the water pressure builds up in the hose
press the trigger and see the hose relax
stop the flow quickly and again see the hose react
That relaxing and reaction of the hose is water hammer or knocking but you won't hear it in a hose , but with rigid pipes the action comes out as a vibration , like a drum being hit
Try cycling your disconnects a few times. Turn off the propane at the tank. Turn on the vent fan. Then turn on the furnace. Yes' I said turn off the gas and turn on the furnace. As the furnace tries to ignite "you will hear the spark" SLOWLY open the gas valve. I say slowly because the tank valve has a safety feature that stops the flow of gas if it is going to fast. By opening the valve slowly the gas will pressurize the line and the valve will stay open. Here is the reasoning behind this. If your refrigerator, water heater or anything else gas was turned on while the gas valve was off the pressure left the line. When you turned the gas back on there was a rush that let the over sensitive safety valve kick out.
Some models have an electric safety valve connected after the regulator and it is controlled by the gas leak detector. If that detector is set off by anything..hairspray, Frebreeze, bug spray, silicone spray etc... it will turn off the gas at that electric solenoid. Clear the offending spray and reset the detector.
Remove at least one of the wires going to that solenoid on the gas valve. Check for continuity between the 2 legs of the solenoid. If you cannot get a reading then you have a bad valve. If you indeed do have continuity start the furnace and see if voltage is going to the valve. If you have no voltage going to the valve then you could have a bad board. If voltage is going to the valve then the gas valve has failed internally or you ain't paid the gas bill. LOL.
Check and make sure you have gas on to the unit and to the gas valve in the furnace.. Check for 24 volts at the gas valve at the furance. Check and make sure the knob at the gas valve is in the "on" position. If you have voltage at the valve than the valve has failed. If you have no voltaged at the valve than the circuit board has failed. One last thing you can check if you do have voltage at the valve. When the hot surface ignitor is glowing orange tap on the gas valve with the handle of a screw diver. Sometimes the valve sticks. Of coarse if this works it will probably stick again. Replace the valve in this case.
First make sure your gas is on. If that's not it make sure the pilot tube itself is cleaned out try tapping on the pilot head to remove any build up. The furnace on a call for heat will first start the combustion blower then start the ignition procedure, that first starts the spark igniter or glow plug then timed through the circuit board a short 3 second burst of gas after the 3 second burst if the flame sensor does not sense the flame a short purge cycle runs another 3 second burst of gas and then try's for ignition again. Knowing this the only thing it could be is a gas related problem either no gas or no gas making it to the pilot head or the gas valve itself is not opening so check the gas and the pilot tube if there fine then you're more than likely looking at a new gas valve. Sometimes tapping on the gas valve will free a stuck valve. Hope this helps and please remember to grade me.......thanks again
Well you need to post what wire you need to attach to the wall heater. Im assuming its the thermostat. There should be only 2 wires one goes to the gas valve and the other goes to the sensor inside the furnace. the thermostat only need to be connected to R and W. Please Post more info to help