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Tacsew T1563 stitch length and tension

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 745 Answers

SOURCE: Blind stitch won't lock

This is hard to find in the internet so I hope this will solve your problem...

Frequently Asked Questions

Q) Help!
I am breaking a lot of needles and the tension is getting too tight on its own while stitching and causing the thread to break. I am learning the machine for two weeks. Is it so sensitive too wools, cottons, and fleece that this would make such a major difference in the stitching - breaking needles, breaking thread?

(A) It may not be tension that is causing the problem with your portable blindstitch. If you have broken needles it has probably left some needle burrs in the thread and needle path that need polishing off with fine emory cloth (crocus) before sewing again.

Start with a new LWx6T needle without thread or fabric. Watch the needle as you turn the hand wheel. If there is needle deflection, reduce the penetration dial until there is no needle movement. If there is needle deflection caused by burrs, they must be polished off. Check the looper tip and two arms for any needle burrs and polish off. If there is needle deflection caused by the needle track lifting the needle, lower the track very slightly with the screws on the side of the black metal bracket above the needle.

Finally, Back off on the tension dial and retighten while you are sewing with a light strong thread and light to medium weight fabric, until you get the correct tension without loops. If tension is too tight it will push the thread up so it is not all the way down between the tension discs where it belongs.

(Q) I can't understand how to finish off at the end. It
always unravels. I have read the manual and it seems simple but I
apparently just "don't get it." Any help would be appreciated.

(A) At the end of the blindhem seam, position the needle all the way to the left, then use the knee lift to remove the fabric and jerk on the fabric at the same time. That will tie off the tread and break the thread at the
needle without bending the needle. You can weave the thread tail back into the stitches or cut it off. Before the above procedure, you could also turn the handwheel counterclockwise for a few stitches, then come back to the end of the seam and repeat the first procedure above.

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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dupina
  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: Tension issue

If you set the tension from 3of 4 to 1 you actually lowered the tension. To increase the tension you must set the tension to 6 or higher. Be carefull not the set the bobbin case tension to tight as this will also have negative results

If suggest the following: First lower the bobbin case tension, half a turn. Then increase the top tension to 6 and see if there is any difference.

If you do this systematically you should rectify your problem.

Good Luck

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: stitching looping

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....the question you pose could have 2 meanings....this reply is for looping thread.

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

cc3f045.jpg...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all back properly.

1eade63.jpg
FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes. ie a different colour top and bottom just for the test.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine case....no case ? then make some sort of cover ! Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you need any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: tension

As this happened mid project, I would pay most attention to check the top tension for lint or thread...........this full process of elimination ought to cover all possibilities.



Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

Posted on Jun 24, 2008

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: Janome 1600P DB Stitch length

The machine is skipping stitches and is probably out of time. Change the needle, rethread the machine and try it again. If it still skips stitches, try lowering the needle by about 1/16 inch and see if it works better. If the timing is off you should take it to a technician for a complete service.
sewman7

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

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This is hard to find in the internet so I hope this will solve your problem...

Frequently Asked Questions

Q) Help!
I am breaking a lot of needles and the tension is getting too tight on its own while stitching and causing the thread to break. I am learning the machine for two weeks. Is it so sensitive too wools, cottons, and fleece that this would make such a major difference in the stitching - breaking needles, breaking thread?

(A) It may not be tension that is causing the problem with your portable blindstitch. If you have broken needles it has probably left some needle burrs in the thread and needle path that need polishing off with fine emory cloth (crocus) before sewing again.

Start with a new LWx6T needle without thread or fabric. Watch the needle as you turn the hand wheel. If there is needle deflection, reduce the penetration dial until there is no needle movement. If there is needle deflection caused by burrs, they must be polished off. Check the looper tip and two arms for any needle burrs and polish off. If there is needle deflection caused by the needle track lifting the needle, lower the track very slightly with the screws on the side of the black metal bracket above the needle.

Finally, Back off on the tension dial and retighten while you are sewing with a light strong thread and light to medium weight fabric, until you get the correct tension without loops. If tension is too tight it will push the thread up so it is not all the way down between the tension discs where it belongs.

(Q) I can't understand how to finish off at the end. It
always unravels. I have read the manual and it seems simple but I
apparently just "don't get it." Any help would be appreciated.

(A) At the end of the blindhem seam, position the needle all the way to the left, then use the knee lift to remove the fabric and jerk on the fabric at the same time. That will tie off the tread and break the thread at the
needle without bending the needle. You can weave the thread tail back into the stitches or cut it off. Before the above procedure, you could also turn the handwheel counterclockwise for a few stitches, then come back to the end of the seam and repeat the first procedure above.

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