Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater
I have a GMS8 furnace and it will not come on.. I get 3 fast blinks and no air coming out.. But when you turn it on from auto to run only cold air comes out.. My water heater is working fine but I'm not getting no heat coming out..
Is inducer motor running. If not change it. If it is then remove vacuum line from it and blow through the line on start up. If this works change the pressure switch. If not start jumping the sensors around the burner until you find the bad one
Posted on Mar 01, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: goodman heater
OK, we will need to perform a simple test of the furnace to see exactly what is going on. Set your thermostat to 10 degrees higher than you normally do so we know that there is a call for heat. Then at the furnace, there will ba a small viewing port. Watch the blinking light and record all the patterns it blinks. After a minute or so, place your hand on the PVC vent pipe(s) to see if they are warm. If not, either the thermostat is not sending a signal to the furnace or we will need to look inside the furnace to see what is happening. But if one of the PVC pipes is getting warm, place your hand on the plenum on top of the furnace connected to the ductwork. You shoul feel the metal starting to get warm. If the blower does not turn on within two minutes, there is an issue with either the blower itself or the control board.
Getting back to if one of the vent pipe(s) don't get warm. Using a piece of duct tape or electrical tape, after removing the furnace access panel, tape the door safety switch down. The furnace will now try and cycle. A small fan attached to the vent pipe should run, then it will create suction on a pressure switch that will energize the ignitor. You will notice an orange glow thru a larger viewing port looking into the burner box. After a few seconds, the gas valve will open and the ignitor will ignite the gas. The orange glow will turn to a blue flame. Now after two minutes or less, the blower should turn on. If one of these steps don't happen, you should document it and let your technician know. As far as the blinking lights, these are diagnostic codes that will tell you where to look for the issue. On the rerverse of the access panel, there is a chart that gives a simple explanation of what the blinking represents. Again, let your technician know what you discovered. Keep in mind that the furnace will cycle or attempt to start 3 times before it will blink an error code.
Remove the tape and reassemble the access panel. Yes you will need to contact your technician but the steps you performed just saved you 30-40 minutes of diagnostic time.
Posted on Nov 26, 2007
Ok, you either have a inducer fan issue or a pressure switch issue or a plugged vent pipe. The inducer turns on to establish a draft for the exhaust. If it is not working you will get this error code. If the pressure switch does not sense pressure caused by the inducer, it will give this code. If either the intake pipe or exhaust pipe is blocked (even y just a little) it will give you the same error code. If the condensate hose or receptical is plugged, again it will give you this error code. Good Luck!
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
I have a goodman GMP075-3 that won't turn on. I think it is the pressure switch since I do not have a vent blockage. What is a venter and where can I find it??
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
Today’s furnaces are controlled by a computer which constantly monitors for problems. When it detects a problem it will shut off the burners. Depending on the problem and the specific furnace it will either “lock out” the furnace or cycle it through a purge (to rid it of un-burned gas and excess heat) and then attempt to re-start it. If the problem continues to occur then it will “lock out”. Depending on the problem and the furnace it may again attempt a re-start after several hours. In any case if the problem was not detected/caused by a sensor which requires a manual re-set, when the power to the computer is interrupted or the call for heat is interrupted the computer is reset and it will again attempt to re-start the furnace. The most common problems are:
· Low or lack of flame sense. Different furnaces use different methods to detect a flame – often these “flame sensors” become dirty and have to be cleaned (usually with sandpaper or steel wool).
· Bad igniter. (Doesn’t light at all).
· Clogged combustion air intake or exhaust.
· Clogged condensate drain. (90+% efficient furnaces).
This is not a complete list, only the most common!
Depending on where you live your HVAC system runs more than anything else you own (including your car). All furnace manufacturers “recommend” “regular maintenance” of your furnace. In fact, all that I am aware of state in their warranty that the warranty may be voided due to lack of “regular maintenance.” The industry has defined “regular maintenance” as yearly (in fact, some manufacturer’s warranties state yearly). Due to safety, liability, and the need for many other things to be checked, cleaned, and/or adjusted (2-page checklist where I work) to ensure safety and efficiency. Due to the large number of furnaces and the differences between them. Moreover, due to the terms of this site, I WILL NOT AND CAN NOT give you specific instructions on how to perform repairs on your furnace. I suggest that you contact a local, reputable, HVAC service company for (a tune up, preventive maintenance, general maintenance, yearly service call, general service, or whatever they call it).
While I may not have told you how to fix your furnace yourself, I have told you how to fix it. Please rate my answer.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
Posted on Jan 08, 2010
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