Question about Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the washer is not used regularly the shaft can stick to the seals and prevent the motor from spinning. This happens quite regularly for me if I don't use the washer often. You can just take off the bottom panel - after shutting off power to the dishwasher - and access the motor. you should see some fins and then just try to spin the motor by hand. It usually takes about 90 degrees of rotation before the motor breaks free from the seal. You'll have to fight through the spring-like resistance created by the seal-shaft adhesion. After it breaks free the motor spins freely and you should be all set to go. I haven't found a more permanent fix for this other than running the dishwasher more regularly.
Posted on Feb 09, 2008
If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.
From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.
Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)
Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.
If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...
On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
if your dishwasher is cleaning poorly, check these:
Most cleaning problems are caused by the dishwasher not getting enough wash water, so the water-inlet valve is often to blame. This valve is usually at the bottom left or right of the dishwasher, behind the lower access panel. It's the device with the main water line from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.
When a water-inlet valve is defective, you may hear the sound that's usually referred to as "water hammer." If the water-inlet valve is defective, you need to completely replace it.
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Replacement
Be sure to read and understand any instructions that come with the new water inlet valve.
Step 1. Disconnect the dishwasher from its power source.
Note: Dishwashers are usually wired directly to the home’s electrical system. To disconnect the power, switch off the circuit breaker or remove the fuse for the electrical circuit the dishwasher is attached to. Try to turn the unit on after disconnecting the power to be sure you were successful.
CAUTION: If you’re not sure you’ve shut off the power properly, DO NOT CONTINUE. Call a qualified appliance repair technician to complete the repair.
Step 2. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. This is usually underneath the kitchen sink or in the basement or crawlspace near the location of the dishwasher. Pliers may be helpful here.
Note: If there are no shut-off valves, you must shut the water off at the main water supply valve for your home.
Step 3. Remove the lower panel(s) of the dishwasher. These are usually held by 2 to 4 screws at the upper and lower corners of the panel(s).
The inlet valve is usually near the front of the dishwasher. Attached to the valve you’ll see: 2 or 4 wires, the water supply line from the house and the water feed line that goes to the dishwasher.
Step 4. Remove the household water supply line from the valve. The line is usually secured with a brass compression nut. The water supply line is usually copper or braided stainless steel.
CAUTION: Water supply line may be hot.
Step 5. Remove the fitting from the valve the water supply line was attached to. This fitting may be very difficult to remove. It may help to put the valve into a vice in order to remove the fitting. If you cannot remove it, replace it. The fitting is not an appliance part but a plumbing part that is available at most hardware stores.
Step 6. Remove the screws holding the valve to the dishwasher frame.
Step 7. Label the wires to the valve so you’ll be sure to reattach them correctly.
Step 8. Remove the wires from the valve.
Step 9. Remove the clamp on the black rubber water discharge tube and pull the tube off of the valve.
Step 10. Reinstall the old fitting (or a replacement fitting if necessary) onto the new valve the water supply line was attached to. Use Teflon tape or pipe joint compound as a thread sealant. Make this fitting tight to prevent leaks. Make sure that the fitting points in the same direction as the old one so that the water supply line will meet up with it properly.
Step 11. Install the new valve in the reverse order of the removal instructions.
Note: The water supply line is under high pressure. Be sure to tighten the fittings properly.
Step 12. Turn on the water to the machine, and check for and correct any leaks.
Step 13. Reinstall the access panel(s). Restore the power to the dishwasher and test.
Note: You may have to let the dishwasher run a few minutes before it reaches the next water fill cycle.
Internal filters Every dishwasher has some type of filter to keep large food particles and foreign objects away from the pump assembly:
Drain valve Some dishwashers have a valve (or gate) that should open only during draining. If debris lodges in the valve, it can't close properly, so water drains out during the wash cycle. Most dishwashers drain into the garbage disposer. If yours does that, listen for water flowing into the disposer during the wash cycle. If you can hear it then, the drain valve may be clogged.
Spray arms There's a spray arm at the bottom of your dishwasher--it may have a tall spray tube mounted to the center of it. There may also be a spray arm located directly beneath the upper rack of dishes and/or above the upper rack.
If debris is blocking the holes in the spray arms where the water comes out, it could cause cleaning problems. Regularly inspect each of the spray arms and clean out the holes as necessary.
Water temperature To get the best cleaning results, the water entering your dishwasher needs to be hot enough. Try running the hot water in your kitchen sink for about 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher, to pre-heat it. Also, if your dishwasher lets you select a higher wash or rinse temperature, try that to see if it helps.
To check the temperature of the hot water that comes from your kitchen faucet use a waterproof thermometer. If the water isn't 120 degrees Fahrenheit, your dishwasher may have trouble getting your dishes clean. You could increase the temperature of the hot water to the whole house--and therefore the dishwasher--by adjusting the hot water heater thermostat.
Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Detergent cup Dishwashers don't perform their best if detergent is introduced only at the beginning of a cycle, so add detergent to both parts of the cup.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
Is the water filling up and then draining out? Mine did this and a part was broken inside the unit. The part was five dollars and called a lifter. I fixed it myself.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Look inside of the dishwasher to be sure that the tubes leading to the spray arms are not disconnected. If those tubes are in place, then the problem is with the main motor/pump in the base of the unit. That Kenmore part is about $150.00 plus labor. That being said, it may be time to consider a new dishwasher UNLESS your dishwasher is less than five years old because there is a five year warranty on the motor/pump. If it is under warranty, call sears repair and they should repair it at no cost to you.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 07, 2014 | Dishwashers
Apr 18, 2014 | Kenmore Dishwashers
Jun 07, 2013 | Whirlpool Dishwashers
Aug 14, 2010 | Asko 24 in. D3250 Built-in Dishwasher
Oct 30, 2009 | Whirlpool GU2400XTP Built-in Dishwasher
Sep 27, 2009 | Dishwashers
May 04, 2009 | Kenmore 24 in. 15932 Built-in Dishwasher
Apr 17, 2009 | Dishwashers
Mar 11, 2009 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDI02IRBS Stainless...
Jan 29, 2008 | Hotpoint 23 in. BFI62 Built-in Dishwasher
Oct 03, 2017 | Fisher and Paykel Dishwashers
38 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!