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Changed distributor(whole thing), metered wires, changed sparked plugs (gapped to spec),changed IAT, changed Coolant Temp Sensor, changed HO2S, metered while engine running and warmed up reading .9v, above chilton's repair manual spec of .5v, Dies out while engine hot. Cant figure it out. Possible Engine Controller problem? Compression Problems?
With the money u hav left look into the injector drive circuit of the computer-thatz wat runs rich and leen--may need a new one or hav whole computer reprogramed-easier
Have your checked your coils? Never replace parts to try and fix a problem, Find the exact problem and fix it! No spart would be either a bad cam/crank sensor, bad coil pack or ecm fuse!
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the spec is .043", for both the V6, and the Inline 4. The theory behind enlarging gaps, is that a larger gap creates a larger spark, thus more effecient ignition. The problem is, your ignition system was designed for the .043" spark plug gap, not larger. Enlarging the gap puts a greater strain on your ignition system components, and it may not be strong enough to jump a larger gap. The result would be less efficient combustion, or a cylinder(s) that won't fire at all. Pull your plugs, and set them at .043". Check the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and your filters. Make sure the car is totally warmed up before the smog test. Good luck.
1. Check resistance of the spark plug high tension cords. (approx. 6 KOhms to 25 K Ohms with DMM on the range adjusted to 10K or 20K whatever range is available on the meter).
2. Check the distributor cap and rotor (if it is distributor type ign. system, other wise CMP and CKP sensors).
3. Adjust the spark plug gap to 0.7 mm - 0.8 mm.
4. Check the valve tappet clearance. (0.25 - 0.30 mm)
5. Check the valve timing.
6. Check the MAP sensor.
Wow, this kind of a problem can drive ya nuts. There are 2 different engines for this car, one is a model 4A-FE and the other is a 7A-FE. The problem sounds like a coil breakdown..I know it sounds nuts because it happens when you hit a bump, but it could be coincidental to a coil breaking down when under load. You will need a decent Ohm Meter to do the following. Check the coil primary resistance [4A-FE & 7A-FE both = 1.11 - 1.75 ohms], then check the secondary resistance [4A-FE & 7A-FE both = 9.0 - 15.7 kilohms]. If either of these values is out of spec, the coil will need to be replaced. If everything is OK, next check the air gap between the signal rotor and the pick up coil projection (CAUTION; use a non-ferrous feeler gauge..ie: paper, brass or plastic). For a 4A-FE and a 7A-FE engine it should be .008 - .0016 in. If this air gap is not correct you have to replace the distributor housing. I hope that this helps to find / fix, or eliminate the distributor. If all this is OK check the lead wire from the distributor...it could have a broken wire inside of the plastic cover. If still no luck, write back and we'll try again.
Have your checked your coils? Never replace parts to try and fix a problem, Find the exact problem and fix it! No spart would be either a bad cam/crank sensor, bad coil pack or ecm fuse!
The fault codes for your vehicle are probably make specific. Can you list what you OBD tool specified the problem to be?
In most rich running instances the fix is attributed to:
Dirty Mass air flow sensor (clean with brake cleaner as it does not leave residue like carb cleaner does) Dirty O2 sensor (replace with a generic for under $30 if you can do the labor yourself) Bad spark plugs or oil around ignition coils. You may way to pull and test each coil with a volt meter. You are looking for between 100 - 150 ohms to be within spec for this car. The ignition coils are what we used to call ignition wires or spark plug wires but now run without a distributor to be more efficient.
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