Question about LG Washing Machines
I switch on my Washer and it draws in water for washing, but after enough water filled in the Washer, it try to turn but unable to do so. To me it looks like the problem is it has no strength to turn. Its not that i put too heavy or too many clothes in it, in fact i try with about 3 or 4 T-shirts also cannot turn. How to solve this problem please ? Thanks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Shawnie, sounds like your lid switch is giving you problems. They revised the switch, it comes in a kit with instructions. Part number 12001908. Take a small screw driver with the lid closed and push in on the actuator to verify that this is the problem. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Jan 27, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem
This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.
Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
I believe it is your lid switch. I have replaced 3 this week. If you get me the model number i can tell you for sure. Another thing that caused this is the motor to go bad. Do you smell a burning smell when it is trying to run after the fill up? If not get me the model number and i will get you the part number for the lid switch.
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.
2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.
Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.
Best of luck!
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
Turn clockwise the water level sensor set screw a half turn "clockwise" under the top of the machine lid.This is the only way to rid yourself of the WICK WATER RUB WASH METHOD that is just terrible. Especially with a full load ! BELIEVE ME. I really wonder if consumers who have the WM0642HW earlier produced version with the nozzle spray system in the top of the door seal are having these troubles?. Mine is a 2009 verson of the WM0642HW, No Forced Water Recirculation. ( Discontinued) and how it was preset for fill at the factory made it perform terribly. Only after i adjusted the water level sensor does it perform well the first time around. Have yet had to rewash anything since the adjustment i made for the fill level. Good Luck.
Posted on Jun 20, 2010
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