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LG 6.5KG WFS65A01DCT - motor try to turn but seems no strength to do so

I switch on my Washer and it draws in water for washing, but after enough water filled in the Washer, it try to turn but unable to do so. To me it looks like the problem is it has no strength to turn. Its not that i put too heavy or too many clothes in it, in fact i try with about 3 or 4 T-shirts also cannot turn. How to solve this problem please ? Thanks

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: washer will not work after filling it with water

Shawnie, sounds like your lid switch is giving you problems. They revised the switch, it comes in a kit with instructions. Part number 12001908. Take a small screw driver with the lid closed and push in on the actuator to verify that this is the problem. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Jan 27, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.


Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Apr 08, 2008

duby1990
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: MY WASHER FILLED UP WITH WATER, BUT THEN IT JUST QUIT WORKING.

I believe it is your lid switch. I have replaced 3 this week. If you get me the model number i can tell you for sure. Another thing that caused this is the motor to go bad. Do you smell a burning smell when it is trying to run after the fill up? If not get me the model number and i will get you the part number for the lid switch.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

ned_san_jose
  • 230 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series fills with water but would not agitate or spin

You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.

2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.

Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.

Best of luck!

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: LG Washer WM0642HW: Not enough water

Turn clockwise the water level sensor set screw a half turn "clockwise" under the top of the machine lid.This is the only way to rid yourself of the WICK WATER RUB WASH METHOD that is just terrible. Especially with a full load ! BELIEVE ME. I really wonder if consumers who have the WM0642HW earlier produced version with the nozzle spray system in the top of the door seal are having these troubles?. Mine is a 2009 verson of the WM0642HW, No Forced Water Recirculation. ( Discontinued) and how it was preset for fill at the factory made it perform terribly. Only after i adjusted the water level sensor does it perform well the first time around. Have yet had to rewash anything since the adjustment i made for the fill level. Good Luck.

Posted on Jun 20, 2010

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Hi lg washer dryer combo trips safety switch as soon as plugged in and wall turned on


The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.

Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.

If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.

if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.

If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.

If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.

Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


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