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Furnace not producing heat . model M2RL080A-16BN

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Choosing your new furnace

The reason I am writing this tip is, hopefully, to help you make a more informed choice when considering what new furnace to buy. My opinions in this writing are strictly mine and come from 37 years of education and field experience installing and repairing equipment spanning 6 different trades.Here is a true story of one of my experiences concerning one service call that I will never forget. About 18 years ago now, I responded to a no heat call from the office. It turned out the furnace blower motor had over heated and burned its winding's. My company's cost was over $800.00 for that motor and lady's cost, much higher. She broke down and started crying right there in her living room in front of me and there was nothing I could do to help her. Her furnace was a very high tech. model and had she known more about furnaces in general, I am sure she would not have gotten it. Hopefully, these few things to look for, will help at least one of you readers to avoid being put in that spot. There are a large number of different furnaces available these days and the choice of picking the best one for you is a choice you will need to live with for a long time. All manufacturers, that I know of, produce different brand names and each brand name has different models available. The cost of your furnace will vary with the brand you choose and the company that installs it. The line of furnaces with the highest grade of components and highest efficiency ratings usually have the top manufacturers name on them. Other furnaces they manufacture of lesser efficiency ratings, and features, are marketed under different brand names but still have all the expert engineering and quality of their more technologically advanced systems. That I know of, both Carrier and Rheem manufacture other brands, all coming in various models, each with unique features for that brand and model, and of course, with all the quality we all expect from top rated company's. All of us service technicians have had all kinds of factory and skilled trades training for specific models as well as component and support equipment classes for trouble shooting and repairing the various types and model furnaces we are called on to repair. Considering the cost of repair alone, the single most important thing in a furnace is its heat exchanger. It is also the most important part in delivering high efficiency. The "Energy Efficiency Rating" (EER) is derived completely from the amount of fuel used to produce heat as compared to how much fuel goes un-burned and up your chimney. The higher the EER, the lower your heating bill will be to heat your home. The primary heat exchanger removes most of the heat produced by the gas at the furnace burners. They are normally made of a lighter material, such as aluminum, to achieve the best heat transfer to the air passing over them, and the air heats your home. They are then coated to protect them from the products produced from the normal combustion process. The pitfall with heat exchangers is, products of combustion produce a form of hydrochloric acid that is highly corrosive. A heat exchanger expands and contracts when heating up and cooling off. This helps to form small cracks in the various types of coatings used to protect the metal the heat exchanger is made of. Dual heat exchangers have been popular for their higher EERs and are now widely used. Normally the secondary heat exchanger is stainless steel or another acid resistant metal and therefor resistant to the moist acidic products of combustion. The secondary heat exchanger condenses more of those acid products than the primary due to the lower air temperatures passing through them. Most of the heat having been removed by the Primary heat exchanger. But the primary still expands and contracts and most of the acid resistant coatings, don't. So, pay attention to the efficiency of the furnace, of course, but you want heat exchangers that are guaranteed to last at least 25 years. Guaranteed with the COMPLETE cost of replacement, for both of them, if one or both should fail. The cost of a new primary heat exchanger and the labor to install it is higher than a new furnace. Next, consider the level of technology in your prospective furnace. The higher the level of technology, normally, the higher the up front cost to purchase it, and usually, a higher cost of repair somewhere down the road. A 2 stage gas valve is less expensive than a variable opening valve. 0 to 100% of its full volume. Also, the blower motor (As above). A definite 2 or 3 speed fan motor will cost you far less than a fully variable speed motor. 0 to 100% of its fully rated speed. Every extra function that is not absolutely needed to provide a safe and fully functional unit, will cost you more to buy and repair. Don't be put off by thinking, if it costs less, there must be something wrong with it. Remember, the company that built it, put the same quality into it as any of their other products. It just has less features and most likely, a slightly lower EER rating. 2 or 3 % in the EER rating may add up to $50 to $70 dollars a year. Figure your purchase price for a more highly rated unit, and the possibility of repair costs that may be double or more 8 or 10 years down the road. I have done a lot of writing here and haven't said much. But what I have written has proven over the years to important to most people. If you have double the features, you have doubled the odds of needing a repair. Get the best deal you can but consider all the costs, from the original purchase all the way to when you will really need to replace it. I hope this helps. If you have any specific questions, any of us are able to answer them. Do some homework before buying and I think you will be surprised at what you learn. Good Luck. Roger

on Feb 07, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace won't stay lit. Intertherm Model M2RC-080A-16BN. Ignightor glows, flame starts and after a few seconds the flame shuts off. Then it starts the cycle again. It goes thru this cycle a fe

It sounds like the flame sensor is bad. If thats not the case you may need to replace the control board. You should make sure the flame sensor is directly into the flame.

Nov 20, 2014 | Intertherm Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Oil furnace only produces cool water intermittedly and only when heat is actively on

For clarity, a Furnace produces HOT AIR for heat while a boiler produces HOT WATER for heat. Just remember...boil = water. You said your "furnace" does not produce hot water for a shower and because furnaces do not product hot water unless they have some model that do???? Usually people with a furnace have a seperate hot water heater. People with boilers though can produce hot water for use as both their sinks/showers hot water and their heat (by heating water that goes through baseboards) in their house. I don't believe any furnaces produce hot water most of the time a furnace just produces hot air for heating. So figure out what you first have.
Having said that, I'll assume you have a boiler like I do and my Weil McClean(sp?) stopped working a while back and wasn't turning on to "boil" any water. I took apart the burner and there is a light sensing photo resistor as part of the controls. If this phto resistor goes bad, the boiler will not start. The resister is cheap, I think it was $8 but you have to know what you're doing to change it. So you may be better to call someone who can work on such equipment.
Boiler's themselves are not overly complex. Home heating oil is the same diesel fuel that you can buy in a gas station only the government has "oil" companies put a RED die in home heating fuel which is usually cheaper then Diesel fuel because diesel fuel is taxed to death. The reason they do that is so that if you try putting RED tinted home heating fuel in your truck and you get pulled over (because you're a trucker with and 18 wheeler and they typically do inspections of these trucks) you will be a huge fine if they see you're running home heating fuel and NOT paying your taxed by purchasing Diesel fuel. A little bit of background so you know the fuel you are dealing with here. So it's dieslel fuel without the tax you run in your boiler. Gasoline on the other hand is VERY explosive as you know, but diesel fuel (if you're ever tried to light it) takes some coaxing to get lit. When it's cold out, diesel fuel is very hard to light and that's why trucks use glow plugs. You don't need those in your home though.
But because diesel fuel/home heating oil is hard to light, it's sprayed as a msit into your boiler, so that it can light more easily.
But because it is a fuel, you should know what you're doing when messing with it. FInd out what you have, and then have someone work on the issue if you haven't already. I'm guessing you have had it fixed by now?

Mar 21, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Furnace burners won't ignite

Assuming this is a gas furnace, when the thermostat calls for heat the pilot heats an igniter to produce voltage that opens the burner gas valve. In your furnace, the igniter may have failed and the burner can't fire up

Mar 09, 2013 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:

1. Thermostat calls for heat.

2. Draft inducer motor starts.

3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.

4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

Nov 25, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Replaced mercury thermostat w/Honeywell CT87K - doesn't work!

You need a specific thermostat for a Wall Furnace it is a Millivolt Thermostat and not a 24v standard thermostat....usually it will work anyway however if the powerpile (generator produces millivolts from the pilot light) is weak it may not be producing enough...or the Pilot light may be dirty and lazy...won't produce enough millivolts ...or you can have bad or dirty contacts or connections....or a combination of any of the above.....a 24v Thermostat and particularly a non-mercury thermostat has too much resistance in it for a millivolt your Wall Furnace (other than the fan) runs on less than 1 volt

Oct 31, 2009 | Honeywell CT87B ROUND HEATING&COOLING...

1 Answer

Furnace leaks water on floor when air conditioner is running.

Okay, let do this;
get a wet/dry vaccum set the suction into the drainage and let it **** it.
it should solve your problem.

Jun 09, 2009 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Goodman furnace may be producing to much water

Your furnace is more than 90% efficient and extracting so much heat from the gas that it condenses instead of blowing out steam. This is good! Figure that for every dollar you spend on fuel, you are getting back 90+ cents back in heat. Compare that to the typical units that only get 70 - 80 cents back in heat.

Yes you should drain your condensate to a proper drain via gravity or a condensation pump. I would recommend you treat the condensate first with a acid neutralizer prior to draining in municipal drains due to it's high content of sulfuric acid. You can purchase these filter type neutralizers on the net or at a good heating wholesaler.

Feb 11, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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