Amana AMH95 Blown control fuse

I would suspect bad transformer. The board may not have a light because it is not receiving low voltage from transformer. With a multimeter you can test the transformer. But, since you likely have a short somewhere be sure to install a fuse right after the transformer or you will be burning up another transformer until you figure it out.

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That unit has a thermostat I believe and 12 or 24 volts to power it. The 3 amps tells me it may be either line or low voltage, see manual. the fuse blows due to a short in the control circuit, a transformer if low voltage.

a fuse blows for a reason. dry bearings will increase amp draw, a non rotating fan rotor will blow a fuse. burnt windings will almost instantly blow a fuse. just changing the fuse may not solve your problem. find the problem and fix it THEN replace the fuse.

the fuse is for low voltage 24v wires it is most likely located on the control board inside your furnace or air handler most of the time it will look like an automotive fuse there is probably a reason why its blowing usually a pinch or short in the wire if its a re accuring problem you might want to get a resetable 3amp fuse or popper i would be more concrned about calling the company and saying you charged me and never fixed the problem

If your blowing fuses then you have something grounded or shorted. By grounded I mean a wire has come loose and is touching the cabinet or a part that allows it to go to ground or your motor, capcitor or compressor is shorted.

You have a low voltage short. A lot of low voltage shorts come from the wires that go out to the outdoor unit. Go outside and inspect those wires and that they are in good condition. Also check for any splices in those wires that they haven't degraded in any way. This is the only thing that will blow the fuse. That's why it's only 3 amps and based on the size of your fuse, it's a gas fired unit right? Have a great day!

With all due respect, there is some rather incorrect information in your response Jidza.
These washers are direct-drive and do not have any transmission, nor does the motor "spin backwards during extract". I think you are confusing a Fisher Paykel machine with conventional motor-driven washers. The "motor" is not a self-contained unit, it is really a "drive unit" consisting of a stationary stator/RPS sensor and rotor that either spins in a circular motion to drive the basket for the extract cycle, or it will "pulsate" to mimick the action of a transmission for the agitate cycle. There is no belt or gears or any of that. It's a brilliant design that eliminates many of the moving parts on the typical American washing machine.

With that said, in regards to the original post, the diverter valve, water pump and water inlet valves all are possibilities for a popped fuse in the controller, as well as a fault in the circuitry in the controller itself. Visual inspection of the pump or a simple continuity test is not enough. You need to check the specific resistance of the coil for the water pump, as it can be out of spec and cause the control to fail.
Some of the other experts do not approve when some of us suggest that obtaining a service manual would be the best cause of action but in this case it is warranted. These machines are not like "conventional" washers, they are, for the most part, electronic in nature and proper understanding of the circuits involved in the various cycles and functions makes servicing them much easier and your chances of sucess in repairing them much greater. You can obtain a detailed service manual for the GWL11 here:
http://www.fisherpaykelparts.net/ecart/category.php?category_id=53

My answer is not intended to insult anyone, I'm trying to help the original poster.

Go to Logitech support and check the faq's on your speakers. You must replace with the same fuse and it may be a 3amp slow blow fuse. If so replace with the same fuse or you will just keep blowing them out.