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Re: Cannot figure how to open top cover
The top of the machine does not open. You have to remove the console to get to the retaining clips that hold the entire case on the frame. If you wish to pursue this follow these steps:
1. Unplug machine. It's best not to have any live voltages when working around the console.
2. Lift console. It will come off in one of two ways depending on what type you have. The end caps on either side of the console are removable on some models by popping them off to the expose a screw on either end. If teh end caps don't come off, you will have a retaining clip holding it in place on each side. With this type, you will need to insert a putty knife (from the FRONT of the console) under each corner and push in to release the retaining clip.
3. Once the console has been lifted from the top, carefully lift up and back to its resting position over the back panel of the machine. Use care when when doing so that you don't break the plastic hinges that hold the console in place.
4. There are two brass-colored clips under the console that you need to remove. Insert a flat screwdriver straight down through the top into a groove in the clip and pry towards the back of the machine. This will release the clip.
5. Once the clips have been removed the entire case comes off as one piece. Make sure you disconnect the lid switch connection on the top of the machine first. This will be a plastic white connector plug. Open lid and place one under the front rim of the case and pull from the back towards you. The case will lift off from the back first and off the frame.
6. Replacing the case is always the tricky part. Looking down through the lid of the case, make sure you place the bottom front lip UNDER the frame first and slowly lower the case on to the frame. There are four cleats the must fit back into slots on the frame before it will seat properly. Also, make sure the back fits back into the casing on both sides or the retaining clips will not go back in properly. Insert the clips into the slot on the back panel first then push down on the opening on top of the washer for them to snap back into place.
Now, I don't know if you still want to try to tackle this or not. It does seem like a lot, but it really isn't once you get the procedures down. If it's just a simple matter of cleaning because the washer smells, the odor may be coming from the wash tub itself. Running the machine on empty, with the hottest water cycle you can with a cup of bleach can go a long way towards killing bacteria and mildew. Just another thought to save you a lot of effort. Good luck. I hope this helps you.
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could just need a good clean. these machines remove dirt from clothes very well, but it can build up on the inside of the outer. disconnect power, remove top (two screws under covers under lid), remove top bowl ring (8 clips) remove agitator (1 screw deep inside) remove inner bowl. scrub it. also trying a hot wash with some cleaning product to flush the machine every couple months can stop this happening in the future.
Unseating and reseating the cartridge Turn the unit on and open the lid or top cover. Remove the cartridges. Re-insert the cartridges. Close the unit’s lid or top cover. Cycle the power to the device by turning the printer off for a few seconds. Turn the printer back on. Print a test page. If this does not solve the problem, proceed to the next section. Wiping the cartridge contacts Turn the unit on and open the lid or top cover. Remove the cartridges. Using a clean, dry lint-free cloth (a coffee filter works well), wipe the cartridge contacts, from the top to the bottom (see Figure 1). The contact area of the cartridge should be rubbed briskly to remove the waxy lubricant material from the gold contacts. Figure 1: Cleaning the cartridge contacts The contacts inside the printer may also require cleaning. Using a clean, dry, lint-free cloth, gently wipe the contacts, from the top to the bottom (see Figure 2). Figure 2: Cleaning contacts inside the printer Re-insert the cartridges and close the printer’s top cover. Print a test page. If the problem persists, perform a hard reset as described in the next section. Performing a hard reset on the unit When the printing unit detects an issue with the cartridge, a software flag is set inside the device. This flag may not reset until performing a hard reset on the device. HP Deskjet and Photosmart printers Verify that the unit is switched on. Open printer and remove both cartridges. Unplug the power cord from the printer. Wait 30 seconds. Plug the power cord back into the printer. Open the top cover and reinsert both cartridges. Turn the unit on. Print a test page. If the problem persists, the cartridge should be replaced. HP Officejet and PSC all-in-one Verify that the unit is switched on. Remove the power cable from the back of the machine. Wait 30 seconds. Press and hold the POWER button on the front panel. Reinsert the power cable in the backside of the unit. Print a test page. If the problem persists, the cartridge should be replaced.
It means your lid switch is defective.If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. To determine if the lid switch has failed, watch this videos below. http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting#repairHelpVideoTabsSome machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse. Thanks
When a moldy or musty smell develops in a washing machine, many times
the smell is coming from the open areas of the agitator. Water along
with soap and/or liquid softener sometimes splashes into an open
agitator, and when the lid is closed it does not dry out. Instead, mold
begins to form, and a musty smell wafts from inside the machine, even
after the lid has been opened for an extended period of time. Until the
mold is removed the washing machine will continue to smell bad, even if
it is used and allowed to air dry with the lid open.The tub can also be the source of the smell. Lint can gather and collect
in the holes, and when it does not dry fast enough it ends up smelling
musty and moldy. Even the top of the rim can become moldy and musty, but
proper cleaning can get rid of the odor.
So that said.To clean the machine,fill to just above the top row of holes in the tub.Add 2 cups of bleach.Let sit for 1-2 hours.Then let the machine run it`s wash cycle.Lastly use bleach water and a rag to wipe the machine down inside and out.If the agitator has a cup on top remove and clean with bleach.Leave the top open so the machine can dry.
Now it should smell better,if so use as normal,and leave the lid open when not in use.
Just checked the service manual on this model. To open top, first UNPLUG the cord, then gently pry off the emblem from the front trim. Behind it is a T-20 torx screw, remove it and then you can pull the entire top toward you, the front, about half an inch or so to clear the latch and lift the entire top. It's hinged at the back. Ensure you have enough room behind the machine for the console to clear and prop the lid up. If machine is still under warranty, I wouldn't recommend self service, if not, have at it, all you can do is save yourself some money!
Washer smells foul...this is often a build up of soap, water, too many chemicals and this has left a residue, and the mildew moves right in and it stinks. This builds up is often on the inside of the outer tank. Many times that this happens is when people use to much soap and then they only do laundry once a week. One good solution to help your odor problem...it works well...in a top loader I recommend 2 cups of cascade and 2 cups of bleach, fill your machine with hot water and let it agitate. At the end of the agitation/wash cycle, let the machine sit and soak for about 10-15 minutes to work on your scum, then close the lid and let it complete. Next load run whites to be safe all bleach is out. This should help. On some really bad odor problems, you may have to remove the inner basket to scrap off the build up from the inside of the outer tank. You may will need special tools to remove the inner basket. Fabric softener is also nasty for building up inside and under the agitator. It is recommended to use half to a quarter of the detergent that the package recommends. Other things that may help, leave the washer lid open between laundry days. Never cover your washing machine with those plastic covers.
ALL washing machines will build up deposits of gunk in places that you cannot see or readily access. In top loaders, the typical place is underneath the agitator and on the inside of the wash tub (part that holds water). This "gunk" typically consists of body oils, detergent deposits, calcium deposits, hair, dust, dirt, etc. This stuff gets and stays wet. Wet and warm plus "gunk" equals smells. Top loaders can easily solve this problem by removing and cleaning the center column and agitator, then super chlorinating a batch of wash water (no clothes). Fill the washer, putting in three or so cups of bleach, let sit for an hour or so. This should clean the tub. Leaving the top cover open will also help as well as washing smaller batches of clothes more frequently. I have also found that infrequent use of a washer will frequently cause the the residual wash water in the pump(s) to go stagnant. Running a quick small rinse before washing clothes will solve this problem. Front loading washing machines typically have a cleaning cycle and specific instructions as to how, as well as how often, to clean the machine. Have you read the operating manual? I find that leaving the door open and running a fan that blows air inside the machine for an hour or so after washing also helps dry out the machine and keeps mold and bacterial action down by drying out the machine quickly. Keep the door open if at all possible. Removing and drying the detergent dispensers as well as the detergent dispenser opening also helps. Changing detergent may also help. Most front loaders recommend HE detergent. Use the absolute minimum amount of detergent necessary to get your clothes clean which is often a couple of ounces or less. There are also products that claim to clean your machine and eliminate odors, but I have no experience with them. Keep it dry. Keep the door open. Use a fan to blow air around and dry the machine out. Run the cleaning cycle as often as neccesary.
Washer smells foul...this is often a build up of soap, water, too many chemicals and this has left a residue, and the mildew moves right in and it stinks. This builds up is often on the inside of the outer tank - picture help. Many times that this happens is when people use to much soap and then they only do laundry once a week. One good solution to help your odor problem...it works well...in a top loader I recommend 2 cups of cascade and 2 cups of bleach, fill your machine with hot water and let it agitate. At the end of the agitation/wash cycle, let the machine sit and soak for about 10-15 minutes to work on your scum, then close the lid and let it complete. Next load run whites to be safe all bleach is out. This should help. On some really bad odor problems, you may have to remove the inner basket to scrap off the build up from the inside of the outer tank. You may will need special tools to remove the inner basket. Fabric softener is also nasty for building up inside and under the agitator. It is recommended to use half to a quarter of the detergent that the package recommends. Other things that may help, leave the washer lid open between laundry days. Never cover your washing machine with those plastic covers.
ODORS IN DUET HE3 & HE4 WASHERS CLEAN OUT PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure that you read these instructions completely before beginning the clean out process. 1. Open the washer door and remove any clothing or items from the washer. 2. Inspect the gray colored seal/bellow between the door opening and the basket for stained areas. Pull back the seal/bellow to inspect areas under the seal/bellow. 3. If stained areas are found, wipe down these areas of the bellows using the following procedure: a) Mix a dilute solution of liquid chlorine bleach and water (3/4-cup bleach in 1 gallon of warm tap water). b) Wipe the seal/bellow area with the dilute solution. c) Let stand 5 minutes. d) Wipe down area thoroughly with a dry cloth and let the washer interior air dry. e) Please note: - Do not use bleach at full strength for cleaning surfaces. - The use of rubber gloves is recommended when cleaning for prolonged periods. 4. To begin the clean out cycle, do the following: a) Open the washer door and remove any clothing or items from the washer. b) Be sure door is closed. c) Open the dispenser drawer and remove the detergent divider from the main wash detergent compartment. See the Use and Care Guide for instructions. No additives will be added at this time. You will be required to add them at a later step. - For Whirlpool Duet, select the �Power� button. - For Kenmore Elite HE products, move to the next step. d) Select the �Normal� wash cycle. e) Select the hottest wash water temperature available, (not all temperatures will be available). f) Select the highest spin speed available. g) Select the additional or 2nd Rinse option (if available). h) Press and hold the �Start� key for 2 seconds. The door will lock and filling will begin. NOTE: The water will dispense for a moment, then the door will unlock and re-lock and the cycle will continue. i) Once the filling has begun again, open the dispenser drawer and immediately add 1 cup liquid chlorine bleach to the main wash detergent compartment. The liquid chlorine bleach should immediately flow through the dispenser. NOTE: Do not add any detergent to this clean out cycle. Use of more than 1 cup of bleach per month will cause product damage over time. Addition of bleach without immediately starting the cycle will cause product damage over time.