Question about Maytag MED5700TQ Electric Dryer
The dryer does dry the clothes but the timer is not moving. I have tried it on all cycles but still no change
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
This link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.
You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.
Here are some common solutions to help resolve the issue with your appliance. Clicking on the underlined links will take you directly to that page.
If your dryer doesn't heat properly, check this: Venting restriction: Disconnect the dryer temporarily from the vent. If the flame stays on for a longer period, you may have an air flow obstruction to the outside. Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. Also, in your case, the coils may work fine initially, but heat build up can cause the coil(s) to malfunction and when they cool down will work again.
This link will help you with disassembly and diagnostics diagrams.
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Dave E. (Illeagle)
"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"
Posted on Jul 09, 2008
Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the dryercompletely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the back ofthe dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it dries betteror ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting. Like ablocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
If the vent doesn't make a difference,then check the blower wheel for excessive lint build up, check thatthere isn't anything stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum,(i.e. the screen on the back wall of the dryer when looking into thedrum). Check the lint filter chute for blockage. Check that the heatingelement isn't shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat or pocket thermomter can be used for this. It should cycle between 120 degrees and 160 degrees. Check that the drum seals are not worn out.
Posted on Feb 21, 2009
I had a similar problem years back. It was the ignitor. The ignitor is a ceramic like piece that heats up (glows red) that ignites the gas. Typically when that goes, you will see some white residue build up where it cracked, thus breaking the electrical connection. This thing works like a heating element on an electric stove, but rougher looking.
The part was about $30 at my local parts store. I bought an extra one just in case so I have it on hand. I installed it with common tools.
You can check it to see if you lost connection by using a volt meter.
Posted on Jun 23, 2009
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